tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-33744425328068147682024-02-07T04:34:29.432+01:00Marco Zanone Climbing LifeAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11639519853764067150noreply@blogger.comBlogger21125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3374442532806814768.post-48142289115225555572015-10-21T21:31:00.001+02:002015-10-21T21:31:52.986+02:00One summer in Gressoney<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">After 17 hours of
flight from Cape Town to Milan, I really needed a couple of days off because I was totally wasted from the long trip but mainly for the terrible hot
weather. I was used to the stay on temps between 10/25 degrees range
with very low percentage of humidity and when I landed in Italy I was hit by
crazy temps till 38/40 degrees. I thought I would die.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">My skin was
destroyed from the last 4 days in a row and for the antihydral effect but I was at
home, back to the usual routine, so it didn’t matter anymore. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">After a little
while I got out on the rock again, but this time with a rope and a harness for
some sport climbing on my favorite place in Italy, “La benedizione” in
Gressoney.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDesRdSnPPdHmlcmUED27BOq1vULQU2O1hyiH65MENMwla-YFPwW8XpLTmgGFvZVXN5XwQIftUXNKmYns-9NCvIn85Ej2JKZl0gR1a_sRcMyhmsXz8_6Z_KsyQolLEMfPhLEmtwHsj1ac/s1600/paesaggio+gressoney.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDesRdSnPPdHmlcmUED27BOq1vULQU2O1hyiH65MENMwla-YFPwW8XpLTmgGFvZVXN5XwQIftUXNKmYns-9NCvIn85Ej2JKZl0gR1a_sRcMyhmsXz8_6Z_KsyQolLEMfPhLEmtwHsj1ac/s640/paesaggio+gressoney.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gressoney Landscape. Pic Elisa Negro</td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">The first time
after a month of bouldering has been terrifying, I got pumped on a 6c+ and my
skin was smooth, it seems to me to climb on glass, probably because of the rock
my skin was used to taste (sandstone), so on the gneiss I had not any feelings.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">The heat continued
unabated and even in the Gressoney valley, where is used to be cold, was very
hot even at 9 am (25 degrees).<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">On my third day on
the rock I nailed a great link up of 70 moves called “Mauashinger 8A+” after a
couple of goes.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">I started to go to
Gressoney with some regularity, at least twice a week to get some endurance and
tough skin for the unfinished business “Lucky Man 8C”; but before to get on it
I waited that the temps dropped a little down.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">The very hot temps
didn’t help my skin recovery so I needed more than a month to get a tough skin.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Since I could try
my project I started to try something easier but very challenging as every
route up here. I freed ,after a key hold broke off, “Balconi Fioriti”
originally graded 8A+ but I proposed 8B because the new sequence it’s way
harded than the previous one. I also climbed the neighbor “Arriva la Bomba 8B”,
another Gabri Moroni’s testpiece that start like the other one but it goes
right after the first 7b pitch.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCW4hCcalNGQN_0o9Th5TnzaSPy8jioNwko8DW6WrHTv_izqcjXMik6UV-m55dnqIARZn8J7NRk2PAhbQ9c2Fp8hwjbZehs_hx2Rcs4wn8a2m_-4miF2IwlYMj2yhaVu6BeKRqT711gzs/s1600/Arriva+La+Bomba+8b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="424" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCW4hCcalNGQN_0o9Th5TnzaSPy8jioNwko8DW6WrHTv_izqcjXMik6UV-m55dnqIARZn8J7NRk2PAhbQ9c2Fp8hwjbZehs_hx2Rcs4wn8a2m_-4miF2IwlYMj2yhaVu6BeKRqT711gzs/s640/Arriva+La+Bomba+8b.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Arriva la Bomba, Credit Elisa Negro</td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">My season up there
couldn’t started in any better way but just 2 days later of my latest repeat of
“Arriva la Bomba”, or rather the first day of quite good conditions, I was
eventually able to take down my first 8C ever, the one which I struggle with
the last summer, “Lucky Man”. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">In the next days of
my send I started to think about If I would have been strong enough to try the
whole line, the famous Alberto Gnerro’s route freed in 2006, called “SS26”.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">I was on my way to
Ceuse so all of my thoughts were blown away by the tons of the projects I
setted for the trip.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">After 10 productive
but very hot days in one of my favorite place in the world I came back home and
I forced to rest for a strong sore throat and for a very high fever but luckily
the weather was rainy.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">When I felt rested
and recovered I went to Gressoney and I tried one of the last thing left me up
there, “Non capisco 8B+”.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZtZG0U3rXDp__FwKE_rTxEsO81O516M5FEOiGAYYqK5SuM4ckCM-TfcW-BZPT6INK_dtMKBPAU9XoCk3KS3XH-lMxtWcOeX67u8AieOBfNRrUknjf60a_vovz9YGoYLy-f883gpNoz-M/s1600/Non+Capisco+8b%252B.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZtZG0U3rXDp__FwKE_rTxEsO81O516M5FEOiGAYYqK5SuM4ckCM-TfcW-BZPT6INK_dtMKBPAU9XoCk3KS3XH-lMxtWcOeX67u8AieOBfNRrUknjf60a_vovz9YGoYLy-f883gpNoz-M/s640/Non+Capisco+8b%252B.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Last move of the boulder. Non Capisco. Pic Andrea Zanone</td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">This route is
pretty long, 35 meter high, with a very hard 7c boulder problem at the bottom
followed by an 8A+/8B route very pumpy.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">The moves on the
lower crux were okay but it was very hard to link them all together without cool
conditions because the holds are pretty slippery, instead the second part was
more climbable but really teachy with a lot of moves and feet sequences to
remember.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">In the meantime I
was trying this one I cleaned up the upper part of the 8C+ and tried to figured
out the moves to see if it was possible.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">The first tries I
would not able to find a sequence that suited me quite well but after a while I
got it. I knew it was hard to link it from the bottom but at least was doable. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">I was still
struggling on “Non Capisco” when in a cold morning of the end of August I stuck
the hardest move of the boulder climbing then all the way up very precise
without any mistakes, ticking another awesome route. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">I was definitely
happy about my season in this crag but the games were still not over because I
wanted to try “SS26” seriously.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">I basically took a
week off from this crag to recharge my brain and to take part to the Deep Water
Soloing Competition in Milan. I probably never had so much in a comp, the crowd
was warm, the atmosphere between climbers was quiet because everyone was there
just to have fun.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh42yURe3qZ89jBfd2b0SHG0I3rCfnLq4JuMTXc9UO5DH1htAE9lOvzNfzIwakToUKeHOuqcoz_EJWs-7CYfnU4wGnRcI-wtwTjZy2s0A3-oErGpS96WwEze44tgt76Qi2uDXzK0hatuN4/s1600/Deep+water.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh42yURe3qZ89jBfd2b0SHG0I3rCfnLq4JuMTXc9UO5DH1htAE9lOvzNfzIwakToUKeHOuqcoz_EJWs-7CYfnU4wGnRcI-wtwTjZy2s0A3-oErGpS96WwEze44tgt76Qi2uDXzK0hatuN4/s640/Deep+water.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">DWS in Milan Pic Eddie Fowke </td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">After this great
experience I started to work the project, and days after days I could see the
process of improvement, every try I was slightly closer. The first part of 8C was “easy”,
I did it every time like a machine, because I knew it perfectly and I was already
so focused on the upper part that I could not fail. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPd79sIEFWAY6Ue1fx1jocpS-dvttrmMqg9Z50fLKCg4EcHbHLvxU_cnOYHcierHDakWaPmFEwKrrX055H5dkceAdGcAhmDqh-QqvP-vkEPzDhzMbK_72-2najQZhCWy1PDN5SmWHdv1E/s1600/SS26+8C%252B+Gressoney+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="398" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPd79sIEFWAY6Ue1fx1jocpS-dvttrmMqg9Z50fLKCg4EcHbHLvxU_cnOYHcierHDakWaPmFEwKrrX055H5dkceAdGcAhmDqh-QqvP-vkEPzDhzMbK_72-2najQZhCWy1PDN5SmWHdv1E/s640/SS26+8C%252B+Gressoney+2.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Crux Move of the lower part. SS26. Pic Andrea Zanone</td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">The higher part
after the first pitch is something like 8a+ with a final crux on very small
edges around the 95th</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Wingdings; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-font-family: Verdana; mso-char-type: symbol; mso-hansi-font-family: Verdana; mso-symbol-font-family: Wingdings;">à</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">100th moves.
The most challenging part of the route was this one. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">I basically fell off
in that section for about 10/12 tries even if each try I was a little closer,
but the nasty thing about falling in that section is that I had to skip 2 quick-draws
in a row, because It was too hard to clip, so I did huge drops off, like 10/15
meter drop, every time, so It was impossible to try again the hard section.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Attempt after attempt
I started to realize that this monster was possible, I knew I could get it, it was
just matter of time. Sometime you have the route on your arm, I mean you are
strong and trained enough to do something, but If you are not focused and relax
with your mind, the matter seems to be further that it actually is. The most
important thing is to believe on what are you doing, you have to be the first
to believe that is doable and If it happens it happens and if not, there are
worse places to return.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">October the 11<sup>th</sup>
I went up with my brother Andrea and with my girlfriend Elisa. It was very cold
as usual, like 3/4 degrees at 10am the morning, I warmed up as I was used to do
and </span><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%;">when I felt ready I
decided to make it my ultimate goal because the next week would have been snowy
and super cold.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Everything worked
out perfectly, I put all of my energies in one single effort, I got through the
red point crux and made it all the way to the final jug. The release after I
clipped the chain was unbelievable, I was feeling accomplished and this neck and neck with the
project that occupied myself for the last month, was over and I could not
believe it.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6bVbIyQutg3WyMB2FiXToz80ALnirVS5K7rGLuWVW40T1pTMzC1mc03tOtymCHLgTr-vUI_DgBf0WiVVCaHXLhZxfunyykSXIMByDLDB31uDqMIOl5n7rGLEieKhSTKmq0TANaAxGY3g/s1600/SS26+8c%252B+Gressoney+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6bVbIyQutg3WyMB2FiXToz80ALnirVS5K7rGLuWVW40T1pTMzC1mc03tOtymCHLgTr-vUI_DgBf0WiVVCaHXLhZxfunyykSXIMByDLDB31uDqMIOl5n7rGLEieKhSTKmq0TANaAxGY3g/s640/SS26+8c%252B+Gressoney+3.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">SS26 Pic Andrea Zanone</td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">This was probably
one of my biggest dreams that is become reality with passion and dedication to
the sport I love most, but it would have been not possible without the support
and the patience of my family, of my love, of my friends and of my brother that all together followed me on this long and awesome process.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11639519853764067150noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3374442532806814768.post-12557523219328387342015-09-04T14:50:00.001+02:002015-09-04T20:18:58.129+02:00First time out of Europe: Rocklands, South Africa.<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">I don’t want to
spend so much words to describe how much beautiful Rocklands is because this is
a Worldclass and well-known area where climbers from all over the world come to
test their self with the endless boulders has to offer. Rocklands is situated in
the Western Cape region of South Africa, 3 hours driving far from Capetown.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhksg2x1iyhgBHGQfGasYz8TEkXbPkBiaAwpkgSXzp9lCHFwowP3hi8RZVupXCEyaVaXOm2-FVuj8girGIMM2b72qsBRG-agCtOHG1zuXfjzCNvXtURhIQERahQ9QSO4LXdsnlcmggpkbI/s1600/The+pass.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhksg2x1iyhgBHGQfGasYz8TEkXbPkBiaAwpkgSXzp9lCHFwowP3hi8RZVupXCEyaVaXOm2-FVuj8girGIMM2b72qsBRG-agCtOHG1zuXfjzCNvXtURhIQERahQ9QSO4LXdsnlcmggpkbI/s640/The+pass.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The pass</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">It was my first
time out of Europe and it was the first time I had the chance to climb for one
month in a row. I shared this unforgettable trip with my brother Andrea,
Gabriele Moroni and Luca Rinaldi, by far the best guys I could share with
because the psyche and the motivation we could give one to each other was
amazing. The expectations about the place, about what I would have found down there,
about the thousands of boulders I could climb on, were soo high, as high as my
ticklist. </span><br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Actually Rocklands is mostly a destination for climbers, because
there aren't many other things to do except hiking in the national park, so
basically every foreign person we met down there was a climber. The locals people are very kind, the
climbers are welcome and definitely respected from them and even if they are not keen on climbing,
they know you are here for climbing so basically every evening they asked us how
our climbing day was like. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDmQpraPKuAmU4ARLuvis8tw1oEFPQDdqEA3hqCKxUCiLg5iuwZW7xTqIPrs7W8UThRPn3EVdqypb_GiBwubbmk1WwXGWu_1tuVHoAxawwQEOBDMCjY6qFHeEzuHA99r42s3l2a3sSRUI/s1600/Babbuini.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDmQpraPKuAmU4ARLuvis8tw1oEFPQDdqEA3hqCKxUCiLg5iuwZW7xTqIPrs7W8UThRPn3EVdqypb_GiBwubbmk1WwXGWu_1tuVHoAxawwQEOBDMCjY6qFHeEzuHA99r42s3l2a3sSRUI/s640/Babbuini.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Babbons at early morning.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">When you leave the
endless valley of Rocklands to go to the closest village, I could experience
with my own eyes, that the situation between whites and blacks in not changed
at all because the whites are the one to have the territory and the properties
and the blacks are still the poorest race that work for them. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%;">Of course they are
nice and a lot of time they helped us to carry the foods in the car so we were
used to give them 20/30 rand in change of their help. I’ve never seen smiles so
big.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">The climbers we met
down there were so friendly and sometimes we had the chance to try some
boulders like “El Corazon”, “Golden
Shadow” and “Power of one” with strong climbers, so it was fine to share one to
each other the different ways we figured out to do the moves. Sometime it
worked sometime not, but the only thing that matter was that we were having fun
together in one the place best worldwide.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">The climbing days
were always quite long, for the first 3 weeks we had not hurry to go climbing
so we were used to get up at 9, go outdoor at 10 and we were used to climb till
6/7 pm when the sun went down. Later we were used to go to Traveler’s rest to
check out internet with a fresh beer or a coca to celebrate what we had done
during the day. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">The last week when the trip was coming
close to an end we wanted to exploit all the day since we had different
unfinished business and we had to move from a sector to another. So the last
days were soo busy because we climbed
from early morning till late evening where we had funny night sessions all
together with the headlamps .<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">We had many plans
about our rest days but then when we got the car in Cape Town we figured out
that was impossible to go too far because we were not sure if we would be back
at home since the cars we rented were so old and nonfunctioning at all.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">We were used to
stay around to check some boulders we were looking to try, in order to not get
lost when we wanted to try them or we were used to grill some delicious meat to
revive the hearts and the taste buds.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Actually we had one
crazy adventure on our 3<sup>rd</sup> day in Rocklands or rather our first day
of rest.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">We went to
Clanwilliam, the closest village, to buy some food for the next weeks and in
the way back to the cottage, Gabriele instead to move from the 2<sup>nd</sup>
to the 3<sup>rd</sup>, something went wrong and he puts 1<sup>st</sup> instead
and the gear box broke out. We were in the middle of nowhere and the phones
didn’t work, we were fucked up.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjq_0rR7Ib-BMDnAaj1uW6LL0wIJ7eXkYeqFlytNH8gzr9MdRKue3yM2pGQrnNriyHxKvbEmUVvs5HYqilHnajkweCEZ-DZzYUXEdVzwkZwMMNSfW4Izk4-FhRNLFT2gYV3Agkc5mC0qs/s1600/Macchina+fuori+uso.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjq_0rR7Ib-BMDnAaj1uW6LL0wIJ7eXkYeqFlytNH8gzr9MdRKue3yM2pGQrnNriyHxKvbEmUVvs5HYqilHnajkweCEZ-DZzYUXEdVzwkZwMMNSfW4Izk4-FhRNLFT2gYV3Agkc5mC0qs/s640/Macchina+fuori+uso.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Car fucked up.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">We were lucky that
few minutes later 2 Austrian guys, we met the day before, just stopped to help
us and luckily this little story finished with an happy ending. To be honest
the trip didn’t start very well because the first days we had a couple of
problems with the bathrooms and with the cars but then the trip turned to be
spectacular.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">A lot of boulder
problems I sent are indelibly printed in my heart, not just because of the hard grade but because the lines its self are simply
incredible, and stand on the top of one of those is the same thing to get the
rarest gem, priceless!!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">If I have to choose
among the many gorgeous boulders I was
able to archive, I’d choose “SKY” and
“El Corazon”.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Somehow both of
them went down in a day, and just this thing was crazy but It was even crazier
that I took down “El Corazon” on my 3<sup>rd</sup>
try from the start.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhdu6auoxVv8BvDoxYqYNwvHeAy54qHFfQS_59IFw404woJusKD-NONkWyal7GWYmUqIKK4qlfMu8WfyQclHrLGQL7ozQtmRJrqXixF1RJmDVdVaQn6NMKk2AdtONDmpRDb-Gk8Wcd8L8/s1600/El+Corazon+8b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhdu6auoxVv8BvDoxYqYNwvHeAy54qHFfQS_59IFw404woJusKD-NONkWyal7GWYmUqIKK4qlfMu8WfyQclHrLGQL7ozQtmRJrqXixF1RJmDVdVaQn6NMKk2AdtONDmpRDb-Gk8Wcd8L8/s640/El+Corazon+8b.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">El Corazon, Rocklands (SA), Pic. Andrea Zanone</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">El Corazon is an
amazing block ,heart shaped, freed by D. Woods.
The day I went for it was my 3<sup>rd</sup> day of climbing and It was
supposed to be an active rest day and the deal of the day was to check out the
line with the rope since the block is so high and scary.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">I tried twice the
second move to the lip and I felt it okay for my size and for my skills so I
tried a bit the first move even it was not so comfortable to test since the
move consists on a dyno from a single pad incut crimp to an incut edge far on the right. I tried
enough to understand that was doable so the psyche was too high and the line too
beautiful that I decided the active rest day was over and that it was the time
to switch the crush mode on, so I went down to fix the landing with the pads while
Luca was testing it as well with the rope.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">I did a first try
from the ground but basically I just let me fell to test if the landing was okay, and yes it
was. I did another try where I grabbed the crimp with right hand but I was not
able to keep the swing; I was starting
to know how the first was like. Luckily 2 guys from Cape Town join us with more pads
so the landing was way safer if we were fallen in the high part.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Luca did a couple
of tries and he was so close to get the
first move so this thing got me psyched to try hard. On my third lap happened something ridiculous
because I stuck the first move without losing my right foot so I could take the
edge very well. I was amazed but when I realized I stuck, I put the left foot
underneath a little roof, I took the intermediate, I locked off with my right
arm and I went for the last move. When I caught the lip I felt like in paradise, I
topped out really fast and I enjoyed this awesome moment seeing the panorama in
front of me and hearing the echo of my liberating scream spread along the
valley.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">I sent it so fast
and so easily that it even not became mentally, I still don’t know what
happened in that try, kissed by fortune. Completely out of the blue ascent.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">The highest point
and main send of my trip, not in term of grade, but in term of beauty and for
its wonderful climbing, was “SKY”. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">This world class
line represents to me the perfection, 3 holds very far one to each other with
just one way to do it. Everything had to be perfect for me, the foot sequence,
the hands’ position, the coordination for the second move and I also had to be lucky.
</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiddxxGIdSiz8z7n6YWt1TVBo6kjHga3yCdokzU5fsjJW9XmGUFZN3TXU2v3V46PHni4y9MPVS5_cf6IjE4eUd_yhurljwz0P9f4HHkB2SD0shcsImrtbHAjTzW7isrtmVHmDboSo4bF8I/s1600/SKY+8b+3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiddxxGIdSiz8z7n6YWt1TVBo6kjHga3yCdokzU5fsjJW9XmGUFZN3TXU2v3V46PHni4y9MPVS5_cf6IjE4eUd_yhurljwz0P9f4HHkB2SD0shcsImrtbHAjTzW7isrtmVHmDboSo4bF8I/s640/SKY+8b+3.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sky 8B Rocklands (SA), Pic. Andrea Zanone </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Before to go to this line we made a
little stop to warm up on “The Hatchling”, that is an amazing half-egg shaped
boulder balanced on another one. This line is soo great.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Later we move on
“SKY” and on my flash go I already felt so close, falling on the second move. I
knew I could do it but I took me quite a lot to link the 2 moves together but after many tries all come together in one perfect moment...
This top notch block is always been one of my lifetime dream so I cannot
describe how proud I was to stand on the top this line. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">I can say, that at
the end of the trip I had no regret, the trip has been a success in every
aspects and I can't ask for any better,
because I climbed everything I wished and more than I expected and every day
have been filled with new wonderful climbing experiences, so I left the country
with big smile and still right now I have clear memories of every blocks I've
been able to send.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Rocklands and South
Africa in general, is amazing and it's defintely a wild country, completely
different from a European reality.. You are basically in the middle of nowhere,
you can enjoy the place in its finest purity, you can enjoy everything it has
to offer, amazing views that nothing can't beat, the amazing lights and colors
when the day get old and the sun goes down, the contrast between the white sand
and the orange/black of the rocks. It's amazing to hike back to the car under
orange and red painted skies thinking about what you did during the day.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgl1NGivvnE8Ef88NIyyl45vMm5jCBH_2EUG_9IJZ72ovvcCb5_B84TkuZncssMOqiVaFRmqR4N-fGiRnZmHHlwdb1Ce2RrhGe3sVt33FbP3Fk1W9Jt1TjGT5tcab_YZ2cKPFRNnkcgnaM/s1600/costellazione+Rocklands.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgl1NGivvnE8Ef88NIyyl45vMm5jCBH_2EUG_9IJZ72ovvcCb5_B84TkuZncssMOqiVaFRmqR4N-fGiRnZmHHlwdb1Ce2RrhGe3sVt33FbP3Fk1W9Jt1TjGT5tcab_YZ2cKPFRNnkcgnaM/s640/costellazione+Rocklands.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sky full of stars</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">My eyes during this
month were able to experience something that I will cherish for the rest of my
life.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisEnpnh4cETURbKQRfXc7RJPX4_UR45FBftzNtsZSQrrL23m1Lv4jpKNjvBX_GCJFhe1kpIGxsKi2GF-Z0p6UIznoz2ZUC6etFEr1FpJqbMrVd9ILeD6bSprDg9l2hoyY0dL6VQth4Sjs/s1600/Nebbia+su+roadside.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="398" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisEnpnh4cETURbKQRfXc7RJPX4_UR45FBftzNtsZSQrrL23m1Lv4jpKNjvBX_GCJFhe1kpIGxsKi2GF-Z0p6UIznoz2ZUC6etFEr1FpJqbMrVd9ILeD6bSprDg9l2hoyY0dL6VQth4Sjs/s640/Nebbia+su+roadside.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Roadside sector</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">I left a part of my
heart downthere so I'll be back one day.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">I wanna say thanks
to family that made this trip possible and to my friends Andrea, Gabriele and
Luca that cheered me up every time. They made this trip unforgettable.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">I climbed 25 boulders
problem from 8a(V11) to 8B+ (V14) range.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
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<b><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Best Hits:</span></b><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"> <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Golden Shadow</span></i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"> (8B+ V14) </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "MS Gothic"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: "MS Gothic";">★★★</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Sky</span></i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"> (8B V13) </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "MS Gothic"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: "MS Gothic";">★★★★</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">El Corazon</span></i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"> (8B V13) </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "MS Gothic"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: "MS Gothic";">★★★★</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">The Vice</span></i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"> (8B V13) </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "MS Gothic"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: "MS Gothic";">★★★★</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Mooiste Meise</span></i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"> (8B V13) </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "MS Gothic"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: "MS Gothic";">★★★★</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">The Power of
One</span></i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"> (8B V13) </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "MS Gothic"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: "MS Gothic";">★★★★</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">The Power of
Bar One</span></i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"> (8A/+
V11/V12) </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "MS Gothic"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: "MS Gothic";">★★★★</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">, flash<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Black Shadow</span></i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"> (8A+ V12) </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "MS Gothic"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: "MS Gothic";">★★★★</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Armed Response</span></i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"> (8A+ V12) </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "MS Gothic"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: "MS Gothic";">★★★</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Oral Office</span></i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"> (8A+ V12) </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "MS Gothic"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: "MS Gothic";">★★★</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Tea with
Elmarie</span></i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"> (8A V11) </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "MS Gothic"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: "MS Gothic";">★★★</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">, flash<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Green Mamba</span></i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"> (8A/+ V11/V12) </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "MS Gothic"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: "MS Gothic";">★★★★</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Shosholoza </span></i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">(8A V11) </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "MS Gothic"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: "MS Gothic";">★★★★</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
</div>
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<i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">The
Amphiteather</span></i><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"> (8A V11)
</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "MS Gothic"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: "MS Gothic";">★★★★</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "MS Gothic"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: "MS Gothic";"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiO_vF8Fv8wZT-6Dn_1P_eby5YzQAxnYskkaEm7GUBArOsdmmTdYcpz0fBeMtu4EflCk1PrMzvAqQg-_4P1guu-_4wk9mQEYEWa47p5jvt-kmPhg3gC0NKn41GCi_5uFFWJ5zYo2fUQlp4/s1600/Tea+with+Elmarie+8a+FLASH+Rocklands+%2528SA%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiO_vF8Fv8wZT-6Dn_1P_eby5YzQAxnYskkaEm7GUBArOsdmmTdYcpz0fBeMtu4EflCk1PrMzvAqQg-_4P1guu-_4wk9mQEYEWa47p5jvt-kmPhg3gC0NKn41GCi_5uFFWJ5zYo2fUQlp4/s640/Tea+with+Elmarie+8a+FLASH+Rocklands+%2528SA%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tea with Elmarie 8a flash pic Andrea Zanone</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "MS Gothic"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: "MS Gothic";"><br /></span></div>
<iframe frameborder="0" height="335" scrolling="no" src="http://www.epictv.com/player/embed-player/603264?title&seriestitle" width="600"></iframe>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11639519853764067150noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3374442532806814768.post-82577665779245130852015-05-15T17:14:00.000+02:002015-05-24T23:00:00.913+02:00Magic Winter <div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">This winter season
has been pretty rad and It has been definitely a turning point in my climbing
life. Climbing a lot of hard stuff in the last few months signed the end but
also the beginning of a new path.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">I'm feeling
definitely stronger in the head and my approach to the hard things is totally
changed, I’m not intimorated anymore to try problems at my limit and now I know that the
process of improvement is a long thing and you have just to try over and over
till one day everything will work perfectly together and you’ll finally be able
to get it.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIbkoPeS9wkVg82IZyLgNuZIGOK4PROTxx9qBmo0tRKXmpfj46KxgffuoKLd8MUV1tO3wnszmeeXkXbg8Qjxy66GhIVx-hA1hD-jpY5CQmozGE_YOEHLjAQ1gx5viMo6emySuo4gsuajo/s1600/Kuerzi150407-7024.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIbkoPeS9wkVg82IZyLgNuZIGOK4PROTxx9qBmo0tRKXmpfj46KxgffuoKLd8MUV1tO3wnszmeeXkXbg8Qjxy66GhIVx-hA1hD-jpY5CQmozGE_YOEHLjAQ1gx5viMo6emySuo4gsuajo/s640/Kuerzi150407-7024.jpg" width="425" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dt. Med Dent Pic. Stefan Kuerzi</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">I’m not used to
spent too time on a single thing especially on a boulder because I always had a
lot of must-do thing that I could get in a day, so for me was much more
satisfying to climb on 8As or 8A+s then on a 8Bs.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">This year I had
some no gravity days and I was able to pull off a lot of stuff from 8a to 8a+
range so I decided that was the time to move forward and to try something that
I had to spend a lot energies on.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%;">What I’m going to talk about are the two days that have left a huge mark
on my life forever. </span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">
On these two different days happened something that I had never
experienced before, something that sometimes is not that easy to explain with
words.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Verdana; mso-fareast-font-family: Verdana;">-<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">It
was Saturday, January <sup>31st </sup>when I was keeping in touch
with my friends Gabri and Luca about what we’ll have done the day after. They
were in Cresciano with some crazy friends that were in Ticino for a couple of
days, the conditions were awesome so we planned to head back to Cresciano to
join the crew again because we were sure that despite all, it would have been a
good day.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">I
was keeping in my mind what I would like to try but when I was there I just
followed the flow and the crew. I could have never known, but it turned
out to be an awesome day, and by far the best of my life!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">The
crew that had gathered was insane. It composed of Gabri,
Bazoo, Sbisi, Giulio Bertola, Davide Gaeta, Michelle and a whole bunch of other
guys.</span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">The
first boulder I tried was “La pelle direct 8A+”, Bazoo explained to me the beta
he used the day before and I eventually found myself at the top after around
30min of trying.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Since
I was there I figured on trying the left variant [8A] also, that is way more
different to climb on and it definitely gave me more troubles than the
original one.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle">
<div class="MsoListParagraph">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">After a little
break I had a try from the start, the feet stayed, the fingers locked
and I luckily ticked another one!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">The
day was still early so the crew split up. I moved with Bazoo and
Davide to Jungle Book and Sbisi wanted to get “La Pelle left” since he was soo
close.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Jungle
book was under the sun’s heat, that was quite strong even in February, but the
motivation was extremely high so we checked it out anyway.<br />
Bazoo showed me the beta once again for the original sit start but it was so
hard to have a good friction on the last slopy part of the problem when you
come from the sit.<br />
One attempt my both hands slipped off altogether and I dropped down
onto the pad like a sand bag. Ahaha! My skin started to get
worse and the finger tips were red but it eventually and rather
thanksfully went down for Luca and me.</span><br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span>
<br />
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">For
me the day could be called finished because 3 8A's in a day sounded pretty dope
and I was definitely satisfied but the motivation of the whole crew dragged me
in the right way so I was also able to finish off “La Nave va 7C+”, an awesome
technical slopy edge, with crazy rock quality, I finally finished off with “Gecko
7C+”.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle">
<blockquote class="instagram-media" data-instgrm-captioned="" data-instgrm-version="4" style="background: #FFF; border-radius: 3px; border: 0; box-shadow: 0 0 1px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.5),0 1px 10px 0 rgba(0,0,0,0.15); margin: 1px; max-width: 658px; padding: 0; width: -webkit-calc(100% - 2px); width: 99.375%; width: calc(100% - 2px);">
<div style="padding: 8px;">
<div style="background: #F8F8F8; line-height: 0; margin-top: 40px; padding: 50% 0; text-align: center; width: 100%;">
<div style="background: url(data:image/png; display: block; height: 44px; margin: 0 auto -44px; position: relative; top: -22px; width: 44px;">
</div>
</div>
<div style="margin: 8px 0 0 0; padding: 0 4px;">
<a href="https://instagram.com/p/ykwuf_SXTS/" style="color: black; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; line-height: 17px; text-decoration: none; word-wrap: break-word;" target="_top">The most memorable and the craziest day of my life went down today in Cresciano. Somehow I was able to pull off "La pelle direct 8A+", "La pelle left 8A", "Jungle Book sd 8A", "La nave va 7C+" and "Gecko 7C+" in the same day. Actually I can't explain what happened, I was just feeling soo happy and so motivated, the crew was huge and I had so much fun. The psych of all these guys dragged me in the right way. I was something like unstoppable ahah @monkeeclothing @tenayaclimbing @cruxmove #attutta #valesolotirarle #thisissick #staretirato #54Vpoints #bestday #Iloveclimbing #delleformecheragazzi</a></div>
<div style="color: #c9c8cd; font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px; margin-bottom: 0; margin-top: 8px; overflow: hidden; padding: 8px 0 7px; text-align: center; text-overflow: ellipsis; white-space: nowrap;">
Una foto pubblicata da Marco Zanone (@marcozanone) in data: <time datetime="2015-02-01T21:55:10+00:00" style="font-family: Arial,sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 17px;">1 Feb 2015 alle ore 13:55 PST</time></div>
</div>
</blockquote>
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span>
<script async="" defer="" src="//platform.instagram.com/en_US/embeds.js"></script>
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">I
guess I will remember this day for all of my life, because except the high
quality and quantity of hard boulders I sent, that of course makes this day way
more unique, I had so much fun and the energy we were all able to give one
another was unbelievable.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpuTsQ-r6YyeWV2AzBDkCacANB9sBJA7bsMV8C5m4m8gQN5VTzA_VGKnnuO5Ie1zYDhKv1S8o8Fyg3CT2ywX8ZLhxwc-0ejMWwvPLj2SqzQ039CTV_kyCg890lf78uJsdNF93w46KHBmQ/s1600/Kuerzi150407-7150.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpuTsQ-r6YyeWV2AzBDkCacANB9sBJA7bsMV8C5m4m8gQN5VTzA_VGKnnuO5Ie1zYDhKv1S8o8Fyg3CT2ywX8ZLhxwc-0ejMWwvPLj2SqzQ039CTV_kyCg890lf78uJsdNF93w46KHBmQ/s640/Kuerzi150407-7150.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px;">Boogalagga Pic. Stefan Kuerzi</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: Verdana; mso-fareast-font-family: Verdana;">-<span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt; font-stretch: normal; line-height: normal;"> -</span></span><!--[endif]--><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">The
other perfect day that features this perfect winter season is about the highest
point of my climbing lifethus far.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">What
I’m going to write about next is the result of all the hard work and hard
training. The result of a lot of failures, falls and days spent under one
single boulder or rather entire sessions spent trying to figure out just one
single move.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Boogalagga
is the result of all of this.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">This
line has always been the main project for me, from the beginning of the
bouldering season in Ticino, in fact the first time on it was in December when
I spent a couple of days in Chironico with my brother and Niky Ceria.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgN_rLUWngqDwKdEZuRIqsUX5YyqnJROKuy4IMO1AodgPmJzBpOlcWZKQa6-s6a8eLwFuvVKs2tcLMnzT7E_uPYDucs856M6bU-WGfg1f94tP70R8afdeB7n-CDOdl-16YtbnUcspJ0Ako/s1600/Kuerzi150407-7169.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgN_rLUWngqDwKdEZuRIqsUX5YyqnJROKuy4IMO1AodgPmJzBpOlcWZKQa6-s6a8eLwFuvVKs2tcLMnzT7E_uPYDucs856M6bU-WGfg1f94tP70R8afdeB7n-CDOdl-16YtbnUcspJ0Ako/s640/Kuerzi150407-7169.jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Boogalagga Pic. Stefan Kuerzi</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">I
did it starting from the second move to the top, that is not that hard at
all, but if you fail to make everything perfectly you can definitely
fall.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">The
boulder itself consists of one single move if you use the beta
straight to the pocket (depends on the size) because the first move is damned
hard, but it is not all about strength, it requires perfect body
positioning and exact coordination as well. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Everything
for me had to be close to perfection for sending this beast, I mean, I had to
be in a good shape, my skin had to be dry and regenerated and also the climbing
conditions had to good.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">I
came closer and closer and every time I figured out a new foot beta for the
first move because also a foot 2cm more on the right could make differences on
doing the move or not.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">The
day that Andrea and Luca took down the problem I was super close and I quickly
realized that I had also one chance to get it.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">So
three days later I came back. I felt strong in the head and ready to climb this
one. In fact after a couples of tries I stuck the first move to the 2 finger
pocket and I climbed all the way up.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">It
was something so incredible to be stood on the top of this boulder. A boulder
that I had dreamed about for years and years.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghOrTSW6b8rUSvLkoVqzAXST2I2Jwo9mvrKOovzUSkUryZ71ofSyDi1hoLsiLIDBDYrBAJ80H-aS8clH4RlZosfx4oGqZxXyWIcQesEdnbRC1L53jnxMHBJKTvps267ypDfJK-Roo4nMU/s1600/Kuerzi150407-7088.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghOrTSW6b8rUSvLkoVqzAXST2I2Jwo9mvrKOovzUSkUryZ71ofSyDi1hoLsiLIDBDYrBAJ80H-aS8clH4RlZosfx4oGqZxXyWIcQesEdnbRC1L53jnxMHBJKTvps267ypDfJK-Roo4nMU/s640/Kuerzi150407-7088.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: 12.8000001907349px;">Boogalagga Pic. Stefan Kuerzi</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle">
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%;">Boogalagga
can be called “THE LINE” because it is a tall and proud bloc that follows this
awesome overhanging prow. The holds are insane and the movements are unique and
after all is is an 8B boulder problem that for me marks the end of a cycle but
at the same time signals a new beginning.</span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"> </span><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%;">Here
there is the list of the boulder I was able to climb this winter (in order of
beauty):</span></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZfdDQpnIR7o3wWQsYOAr43BTGAdPt2LPvJ3KA0dfenSeFlQgXjmCN79StUjyQelr0nKijfSFhSEA06JITtAlCCazUk1jHHnSbaHdOdS69N5zbIcWcTUrWl5iuXyLavW0aUhtzVMOX6Kw/s1600/Similitudini+8B+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZfdDQpnIR7o3wWQsYOAr43BTGAdPt2LPvJ3KA0dfenSeFlQgXjmCN79StUjyQelr0nKijfSFhSEA06JITtAlCCazUk1jHHnSbaHdOdS69N5zbIcWcTUrWl5iuXyLavW0aUhtzVMOX6Kw/s640/Similitudini+8B+2.jpg" width="420" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Similitudini Aosta Valley. Pic Andrea Zanone</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle">
<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%;">- Boogalagga 8B (Chironico) <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle">
<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%;">- Amber 8A+ (Brione)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle">
<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%;">- Zarmina 8A+ (Champorcher)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle">
<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%;">- Conquistador 8A/+ (Chironico)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle">
<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%;">- La Nave Va 7C+ (Cresciano)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle">
<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%;">- Similitudini 8B (Outrefer)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle">
<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%;">- Wie im Urlaub 7C/+ (Brione)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle">
<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%;">- La pelle direct 8A+ (Cresciano)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle">
<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%;">- Jungle Book sit 8A/+ (Cresciano)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle">
<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%;">- Gecko 7C+ (Cresciano)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle">
<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%;">- Conquistador direct 8A+/B
(Chironico)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle">
<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%;">- La pelle left 8A (Cresciano)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle">
<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%;">- Viva il Cavaliere 7C+ (Cubo)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle">
<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%;">- Le Pilier 8A (Chironico)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle">
<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%;">- Wrap Artist 8A (Chironico)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle">
<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%;">- Baby Mammoth 8A+ (Chironico)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle">
<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%;">- Second life 8A/+ (Chironico)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle">
<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%;">- Pure Addiction 8A/+ (Chironico)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle">
<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%;">- Souvenir 8A (Chironico)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle">
<br />
<br />
<br /></div>
</div>
<iframe frameborder="0" height="335" scrolling="no" src="http://www.epictv.com/player/embed-player/602085?title&seriestitle" width="600"></iframe>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11639519853764067150noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3374442532806814768.post-16738440625410019952015-03-20T14:16:00.003+01:002015-03-25T13:18:04.149+01:00My goals for 2015<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">The last couple of
months have been amazing because between rain and sun, rock and gym I was able to
think about the personal goals I would like to accomplish in this 2015.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">I decided to start
training by myself because after almost 5 years I think to have understood
which are my weaknesses and which is simply the best training way for me. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">I’m feeling
definitely stronger than I’m never been, probably I’m in the best shape of my
life and the training has been paid off. </span><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%;">I introduce on my
climbing program, exercises that I never experienced before, like TRX and
Rings, which were complemented by intense fingers strength on beastmaker and
climbing sessions in the gym.</span><br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Week after week I
started to see the first improvements and luckily the motivation was always
high but after a while I wanted to leave training for a couple of weeks to test
the progress on the rock.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">I’ll speak about my
season in Ticino in the next story because the season it’s still not over and
definitely syked for Brione and for Magic Wood later.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">I wanna focus and
explain my goals for this year because in my opinion is very important that
every climbers set their own goals for keeping the motivation constantly high
even if sometime everything went wrong and somehow you are not able to do what you
expected.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">My personal goals
on bouldering are to try to consolidate the 8B grade because I’m feeling
mentally and physically ready to definitively break this barrier. </span><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%;"> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Since I’ll be in Rocklands in South
Africa the whole june would be awesome to flash some other 8As.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwmk_HunNXsPRFyJnzulHJR0MR5Y9eBYzs8GS6EDEb8P53RSRv9CkAG28xuV0HOzAhOK74V_CCut8zPaO-7ecn7w1gavwgTF9mFQZH-zhJ4n02ryd42es2UQ7pmxr6XLaZEU4Ls7U84Ic/s1600/Lucky+Man+(Gressoney%2BValley)%2CPic%2BAndrea%2BZanone.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwmk_HunNXsPRFyJnzulHJR0MR5Y9eBYzs8GS6EDEb8P53RSRv9CkAG28xuV0HOzAhOK74V_CCut8zPaO-7ecn7w1gavwgTF9mFQZH-zhJ4n02ryd42es2UQ7pmxr6XLaZEU4Ls7U84Ic/s1600/Lucky+Man+(Gressoney%2BValley)%2CPic%2BAndrea%2BZanone.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Trying hard on Lucky Man. Pic Pierre Zanone</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Instead regarding
for sport climbing I still have a dream that have to be realized this next summer.
The route is always “Lucky Man 8C” in Gressoney that I was not able to pull off for tha bad injury caught me last july. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; line-height: 20.7000007629395px;">At that time</span><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; line-height: 20.7000007629395px;"> </span>I was
sure to have the ability to send this routes and probably If it
was not for the injury would be already in my pocket but for bad luck or whatever
you want to call it, it's still there to be climbed.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">When I’ll be back
for SA I guess I’ll spend the rest of the summer up there and if the route will
go down soon enough I’ll try the extension called “SS.26 8C+” or I ‘ll move on
the still unrepeated “Elementi di Disturbo 8C+/9A” opened by my friend Gabry
Moroni. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">It’s an awesome line though.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">So my main goal is
to send a couple of 8Cs and maybe something harder because I’m sure to have
the right skills to try on such hard stuff.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">We'll see what it will be!!</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Last thing but not
less important I want to announce my new partnership with Edelweiss and Five
Ten for this year.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNzx9CixbxjhTBfGlOfoMlh1DipA2PSblENZ-ywLAjN-HSgqxaTsLKpFjAcMUz-QId5xeT75jSQtFrjbkcBFkZoWEkjz-RUh9yWhXNsYpstVZsRU46xFOw1OfYVQJJZ35twEZPenREIKc/s1600/IMG_6307.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNzx9CixbxjhTBfGlOfoMlh1DipA2PSblENZ-ywLAjN-HSgqxaTsLKpFjAcMUz-QId5xeT75jSQtFrjbkcBFkZoWEkjz-RUh9yWhXNsYpstVZsRU46xFOw1OfYVQJJZ35twEZPenREIKc/s1600/IMG_6307.JPG" height="366" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The new stuff</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">There are both
worldwide known brands that produce amazing high quality stuff and I’m
definitely proud to be part of them.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Hopeful for some
good weather soon to test all the stuff on the rock.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Catch yaa soon.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11639519853764067150noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3374442532806814768.post-13739985978684581442015-02-15T13:10:00.001+01:002015-02-15T21:34:37.790+01:00A summary of the last few months<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Well, what to say
about the new year. This 2015 has been quite busy for a while, I started to train
as hard as I never done and the 2 sessions per day take me off a lot of time
and a lot of energies. The rest of the time I work with my father and every evening
I come back home soo tired.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">First, back to a
couple of months ago when I was climbing
in the amazing crags in Spain, under the warm temperatures that feature this season. Actually this trip was
not as I expected, of course I had a lot of fun because the crew was always the
same but there was something different. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7-_lBUOBk7go7b8yLhS9hMh0UkqwkTweBgWQXMrxc0WmHvLCaoJm0q0rZ1GCe2WEux71DrDIExaJZbc5fKvmhi7_efsmKFOOEiRBzWJyszkcxWrYS3XSeir2jlPz4J0VhYzZVolDnTlE/s1600/nebbia+su+uldemolins.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7-_lBUOBk7go7b8yLhS9hMh0UkqwkTweBgWQXMrxc0WmHvLCaoJm0q0rZ1GCe2WEux71DrDIExaJZbc5fKvmhi7_efsmKFOOEiRBzWJyszkcxWrYS3XSeir2jlPz4J0VhYzZVolDnTlE/s1600/nebbia+su+uldemolins.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The fog above Uldemolins in the early morning</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">For the first time
I wanted to try something harder, something that was at my limit even if the
time to try something that hard is always too short, because if you think that
in 10 days you have to get confidence with the type of rock and the style of
climbing, be in a good shape and find out the right line, is not that much. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">This was a good challenge with my-self but everything went wrong, I mean that, a
combination of lot of events didn't make this thing happen.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%;">First of all, the weather has
been a little bit crazy because the conditions, in the days before the new year,
were insane for climbing in the sun, the friction was perfect, actually what a
climber needs for good send tries. </span><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%;"> </span> </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">At the beginning of my wishlist there was
“El Membre 8C” in Siurana that I really wanted to try, at least once, to check
if it was possible. I checked twice and I was able to get all single moves
except one so I decided to move to the neighbor “Mr. Cheky 8B+”. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">I had good
tries on it so I decided to take one more day in the new year for sending it.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCY0E4ZY0JRR0Ro-zIC66i3eiN8R6m0BuJag5JKlilrjpSOi7eaM3dSomQ-i-Ci9ywF27BfrYcyJlvX77QsxCmsQ97qWf7f6E6g_PbYcAh7M16vbC6PV_oSTrRuDIXEG0nHKLHHu0SPk4/s1600/zona+30+8b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCY0E4ZY0JRR0Ro-zIC66i3eiN8R6m0BuJag5JKlilrjpSOi7eaM3dSomQ-i-Ci9ywF27BfrYcyJlvX77QsxCmsQ97qWf7f6E6g_PbYcAh7M16vbC6PV_oSTrRuDIXEG0nHKLHHu0SPk4/s1600/zona+30+8b.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Zona 30 El Laboratori Margalef</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">The conditions in
the new year changed, so much so it was impossible to climb and the projects I
had in a specific sector were blown away from sun’s heat so we had to move to
the shadow for climbing.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">In addiction of
these temps my shape was crazy and uncontrollable, some days I was so strong
since I was able to onsight my first 8A ever at Cova Boix sector in Margalef
called “Doctor Feelgood” and some days I felt just so weak with terrible pain
fingers. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">When I understood
that I had no more chances on the hard things I tried, I opted for some relax
climbing days together with my dad, just climbing easy stuff for fun. We spent
one of the last days at Esperò Primavera sector in Siurana where after a good
warm up I onsighted 2 of the 3 7b+ on the main red wall, respectively called “Mandragora”
and “Papagora”. These 2 classics 35 meters routes climb as better as they look,
it’s just simply amazing to enjoy the moves with empty mind.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMXUBZKiAbff3jQOgJbQvjI_-e_AhXG0P3efMHWevq3S1ySvjFd2RsrH8Zi7FSfh4U7nWdi_kIBn368lyxK4wEMyggibTtKbLbe6RsYVC_n9UKH15w9PApcUXQUUkp7umRoI51f-Ns6X4/s1600/7b++esper%C3%B2+primavera+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMXUBZKiAbff3jQOgJbQvjI_-e_AhXG0P3efMHWevq3S1ySvjFd2RsrH8Zi7FSfh4U7nWdi_kIBn368lyxK4wEMyggibTtKbLbe6RsYVC_n9UKH15w9PApcUXQUUkp7umRoI51f-Ns6X4/s1600/7b++esper%C3%B2+primavera+2.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mandragora, Siurana. Credit Andrea Zanone</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjujIJQkbuDfpJ_P6WSXJJ2pTfbsqM-GaW6X1mRGKUHZMF3NHjiImgSYba1eVKWCGLz4ujquo71tRyaH_Zwhny-RK4p6Gn21Tur9lgD1ZN422c_Q7FvUqEeDUwrGYpZ5X2wQzXl972nplA/s1600/7b++esper%C3%B2+primavera.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjujIJQkbuDfpJ_P6WSXJJ2pTfbsqM-GaW6X1mRGKUHZMF3NHjiImgSYba1eVKWCGLz4ujquo71tRyaH_Zwhny-RK4p6Gn21Tur9lgD1ZN422c_Q7FvUqEeDUwrGYpZ5X2wQzXl972nplA/s1600/7b++esper%C3%B2+primavera.jpg" height="640" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mandragora, Siurana. Credit Andrea Zanone</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Despite all Spain never
betrays expectations, see ya next year I guess.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">When we came back
to Italy I didn’t know if I was more psyched for bouldering or sport climbing,
but also here the temps were crazy, It was winter but with spring temps because
a hot wind, probably arrived from Afrika, made the climbing possible in crags
where is usually impossible.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">My brother and my
self takes advantages of this to back on an old uncompleted proj where we were
so closed in may/june.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;">We spent both Saturday and Sunday
on it; the first day I brushed up the line and I gave some tries to refresh the
moves but on the second day I wanted to try hard. </span></div>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%;">The route is extremely
powerful and intense since you can’t even chalk but thanks to the awesome
friction this thing was not a problem because the hands and the rock were
totally dry.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">On my 2<sup>nd</sup>
try of the day I gave all my energies but it was not enough because I fell off
at the very last move to catch the jug where you can clip the chain. I did a heartbreaking
drop off because the last bolt was a couple of meters lower but when I realized that everything was okay
and that I fell at the last move, the adrenaline and the tension disappeared
leaving a sense of nausea, sickness and utter helplessness; I was just feeling
empty as if the energies had left my body.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">I had to take a
very long rest and after a good lunch I recovered a bit and I felt ready for
one last try.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">I climbed loose and
precise and this time I stuck the jug, I screamed out for the happiness cuz I
ticked by far one of the hardest routes. <o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">The line “13
Guerriero” was bolted by Alberto Gnerro, and even if it’s chipped, the route
climbs well, the movements are nice and the climbing is really technical. I
probably got one of the few ascents, maybe the 4<sup>th</sup> or 5<sup>th</sup>,
an elite anyway. </span><br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">The
grade is a separate story, It’s just 8B but I can definitely say that this
thing is a solid 8B+ but this is the bolter’s rule “hard grade”. I’m not
totally agree but I respect it.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">From these weekend I
stopped with rope climbing to leave space for bouldering, because for me winter
means cold, friction and Ticino and just these 3 words makes me syked.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%;"> </span> </span></div>
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<br /></div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11639519853764067150noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3374442532806814768.post-85332198668821111932014-11-13T19:07:00.002+01:002014-11-13T19:16:11.852+01:00The comp season<div class="MsoNormal">
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">The season comp has
been pretty weird this year, It started with the first Boulder Italian Cup in
Rome this past April. I trained hard all the winter for this date and I was
quite syked to compete, but every competitors know that the psyche in not
enough to do a great performance. Train for competition it’s every time a rebus
because it’s really hard to listen to our body and to understand ,for example,
when it’s time to stop training; but this is the hardest thing that a climber have to complain, even
after many year of climbing experiences some climbers are not fully able to
understand them-self.
<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Be in shape in that
place, in that precise moment, when you are in the “ARENA”, is definitely so hard, much harder than try
an hard proj on the rock. I kept competing over these years despite my poor
results because only with a comp victory you can say “I’m the strongest today”
and none can’t say anything about this, just keep quiet and train for the next
comp.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;">Coming back to the Italian
Cup, it was a total disaster. Probably I arrived too over-trained or just too
tired to deal with a comp that was played in a single day (qualification, semis
and final). The qualification was okay and I got into the semis quite easily,
but then when the real comp started I felt just to tired and after two boulders
I lost my head and I finished at the bottom of the ranking, around 20th
position with one top in countless attempts.</span></div>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZSxdBxlnURb6UbtSJxucZt8W8bQ_mOKir4F_Ohet8zYF4yy28csR4CQthsjDu9Tl883gnOQLKu_UL7RQK_rm2k-c-UXuIfkQP8Fj5GIiek3CIu_-BKq5d2in7sQbMJkPtoJMffJwH1_o/s1600/Coppa+Italia+Roma.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZSxdBxlnURb6UbtSJxucZt8W8bQ_mOKir4F_Ohet8zYF4yy28csR4CQthsjDu9Tl883gnOQLKu_UL7RQK_rm2k-c-UXuIfkQP8Fj5GIiek3CIu_-BKq5d2in7sQbMJkPtoJMffJwH1_o/s640/Coppa+Italia+Roma.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Qualification round in Rome. Pic Pierre Zanone</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%;"><br /></span>
<br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%;">The Italian competition calendar is unmanageable</span><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%;"> because the comps are played with several
months away so It’s definitely impossible to be in shape a whole year. The next
comp ,after the one in Rome, would have been in Gressoney in the middle of
August,</span><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%;"> </span><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%;">but my shoulder injury didn’t
allowed to take part. At that time could climb yet but when you are in the
middle of a comp you think just to stick the holds and to make the best you can
without caring about any injuries; so I decided to wait till the next one that
would have been one month later.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">I started to train
again, mainly on my own moonboard because the climbing gym were closed and
because moonboard and fingerboard are
the best things to strengthen the big back muscles and the fingers strength in
very less time. After the injury my right back side was basically without any
muscles, there was a huge disproportion form the left side and the right one so
just a miracle could get me back in shape in such a short time. The training
was worth quite a bit because the comp
went quite well even if my semis round seemed more like a lead comp because I
climbed the problem with my forearm fuckin’ pump. I was 10th topping 3 problems
in 7 attempts.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Few days after this
comp I went to Frankenjura for a couple of weeks with my homies Andrea and
Gabri with a little stop of 5 days in Stuttgart for the Adidas Rockstar. It was
absolutely really worth the stop because and location (Porsche Arena) and the
competition are amazing. The time in Frankenjura was awesome but I decided to
take this time to try to send as many historical routes I could. Here a short
list on my favorites:<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">- Bastard 8a+ Jerry Moffat ‘89<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">- Centre Court 8a+ W. Gullich ‘87<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">- Slimline 8a W. Gullich ‘91<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">- Ira Technokratie 8a W. Gullich ‘84</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">- Chasin' The Trane 7C J. Bachar ’81 (OS) <o:p></o:p></span></div>
</div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkaE-Y6-6y4puuj-uD1M5zut3v6yk0g_VKTN0ieKY3tK7i4kb5G5YUjJSphGiaPLitEfIgUVmYz-sje0Vn4T49vND0gliXvm3Th-SNkJYQnLSbG52Mbs6x-MeIfzz5jWgdplEsMwAdYg8/s1600/Slimline+8a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkaE-Y6-6y4puuj-uD1M5zut3v6yk0g_VKTN0ieKY3tK7i4kb5G5YUjJSphGiaPLitEfIgUVmYz-sje0Vn4T49vND0gliXvm3Th-SNkJYQnLSbG52Mbs6x-MeIfzz5jWgdplEsMwAdYg8/s640/Slimline+8a.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Slimline 8a/+ Frankenjura Pic. Andrea Zanone</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">After this long
trip, probably my longest trip so far, I had like 3 weeks for training again
for the last Italian Cup in Milan.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Saturday, October
18 I had the qualification round; I felt like a big dragon, I was able to stick
everything, all the problems seemed like sooo easy. Unfortunately I didn’t have
this power the next day on the semifinal round and I flashed just one problem
of four, finishing this circuit not in best way for sure.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">My motivation for
training increased again because I really hate when I’m not able to do what I
know I can do. One comp still left in the calendar, the most important of the
season, the Boulder Italian Championship in Modena. The last year I had and
amazing comp, getting the best position so far, the 4th place, but this year
would have been very hard to accomplish the feat again because all the Italian
strong boulderers were there. I started to be in shape one week before the
event and I arrived at the comp in a really good shape. The semis round was
definitely the best so far, the boulder were awesome and well settled for sure. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">I was able to top 3 tops in 6 attempts finishing the season in the 10th
position.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">I’m definitely very
proud and happy of my performance even if I could do slightly better making
fewer mistakes on the first boulder. It was so easy but I failed 2 times for
the wrong interpretation of the problem, but even if I had flashed the first
one, it would have been not enough to get into the final because the second
boulder was hard for me to do in 4 minutes so I would have placed 7th, the
first one out of the final or we usually call it “ the first of the fuckers”.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhi6eY7aVVnnM6Kf6rQRN4B196Q162QykBRqWhHItWJ1LGkPJA4RylwRxiG98K5Cj5QmOwMw0eTIsCeMq3f3_UQ_OBlfNdh0KfYT45dJZlPwX-Jk2W7jaNvdRA25h0O4U1fHYtt0T885rs/s1600/Campionato+Italiano+Boulder+Modena+2014.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhi6eY7aVVnnM6Kf6rQRN4B196Q162QykBRqWhHItWJ1LGkPJA4RylwRxiG98K5Cj5QmOwMw0eTIsCeMq3f3_UQ_OBlfNdh0KfYT45dJZlPwX-Jk2W7jaNvdRA25h0O4U1fHYtt0T885rs/s640/Campionato+Italiano+Boulder+Modena+2014.jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">2nd semifinal boulder in Modena Pic Edo Limonta</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Making a summary,
now that the comps are over I can say it was pretty poor of results but the
winter is coming, the bouldering season is at the gates, the training period as
well and I’m psyched as never to start it in the best way.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"> </span><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%;"> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Let’s go training
and take down your own projs! :)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11639519853764067150noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3374442532806814768.post-31171540707999536632014-09-03T19:34:00.001+02:002015-02-17T12:25:54.768+01:00Had a blast in Céüse!<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">The last time I
wrote the blog I was in the middle on my injury and on the way to the Outdoor
in Friedrishafen. 52 days passed and too much things changed so I have
to tell you a lot. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">The 3 days I spent
at the outdoor were awesome, I’ve been able to meet personally for the first
time the guys from Monkee I collaborate with. Marion, Daniel, Eva are
definitely crazy guys that love what they do, I’m super happy to finally have
found out the possibility to meet them.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">At that time my
shoulder was still not able to come back climbing but I understood that it was
on the way of the recovery, I was seeing the first positives improvements. A
couple of days later I went for the second time to the doctor for another
visit, the shoulder blade was still showily out but the nerve seemed to be much
better than before, so the doctor gave me the okay to restart climbing again,
obviously paying attention and testing gradually the reaction of the shoulder.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">A slight smile came
back on my face and I immediately planned a trip to Ceuse with my friend Luca, met a bunch of years before right there. I decided to rest my shoulder until I
could touch the mythical Ceuse’s limestone again. I knew that I couldn’t try
hard even if I had lots routes up there that I would have liked to attempt. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3X4otoshf-pUoECXHy5DwcIYQlL431LRtdlMtokXonRmRlDE6UFd7KUbxtccbKY94HcQo2hwfkTEuW8JP5UOsT9bQqixV-dU2f9IW5WmzYix11n78vBoqo3n4wqd0A9svNHGFDvFJw6s/s1600/Panorama+Ceuse.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj3X4otoshf-pUoECXHy5DwcIYQlL431LRtdlMtokXonRmRlDE6UFd7KUbxtccbKY94HcQo2hwfkTEuW8JP5UOsT9bQqixV-dU2f9IW5WmzYix11n78vBoqo3n4wqd0A9svNHGFDvFJw6s/s1600/Panorama+Ceuse.jpg" height="122" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Awesome landscape. What you can see from the bottom of the crag.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">The first 6 days of
climbing I climbed and re-climbing just easy stuff in Demi Lune sector enjoying
the slabs from 6a to 7b range, feeling the shoulder every time stronger on
vertical stuff. I wasn’t definitely ready for the climbing on steeper route cuz
you use your back muscle 10 times more than on slabs where you can manage and
optimize the power with a really good technique and with a good feet-work. This is why on
my 5<sup>th</sup> day of climbing in a row I decided to try something harder
“La Femme noire 7c”. This route and its sister to the left ( La femme blanche)
are well known for their kilometric run outs but also for their peerless beauty.
I tried F.N once a couple of years ago but I was not able to reach the top
after several attempts followed by huge falls, but this year the story was
totally different because on my first try I figured out all moves and with more
experience and trusting more of the feet I did also the last scary slab.
Without any expectation I nailed the route on my second try this year putting
another tick-mark of a must-do route on my guidebook.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Which is the
next???<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">I was pretty
doubtful about this question, but then I let my self be dragged along by Luca
who was trying “L’ami caouette 8a”. This route has been a nemesis 2 summers ago
cuz It seemed that this route was fucking kidding me, I fall like 4-5 times at
the very end even if I was not pumped. One or two tries my right foot remained
stuck in a hole while I was doing a move and I missed the hold falling as a
fuckers. I drove crazy and I took off the draws moving to another proj.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7GHRoRpzx95GaTJnSYmWcLRttQmvfybhyAQXVOMmxLCdd62m3W_9We6RFfLh45iKeZYsy-PabkD-8nXwXz2yDs6bfAJwPcklVj4mmB_XUgxkb05RjfZS4h3dSKHabfl0pV68oPuvzfQY/s1600/Panoramica_senza+titolo2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7GHRoRpzx95GaTJnSYmWcLRttQmvfybhyAQXVOMmxLCdd62m3W_9We6RFfLh45iKeZYsy-PabkD-8nXwXz2yDs6bfAJwPcklVj4mmB_XUgxkb05RjfZS4h3dSKHabfl0pV68oPuvzfQY/s1600/Panoramica_senza+titolo2.jpg" height="154" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">What you can see on top of the crag. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">The first tries
this year was basically the same but this time I was pumped in the upper wall
so I was not angry at all and I thought that I needed just a rest-day because I
got like 6<sup>th</sup> days of climbing in a row. 2 days later I finished off the
fight sending the first hard route after the injury, I started to realize that
I really could try hard on vertical stuff. </span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Without losing any other hours I decided to try a top-notch slab called “La femme blanche 8a+” but I knew that I was going to try something
that was not tried for long time cuz there wasn’t any tick-marks and every
holds were dirty. I started to climb and very very slowly I figured out the
beta bolt to bolt brushing and chalking up every holds and feet-holds I was
using. The upper slab was super scary to try without any tick-marks because the
distance between the bolts are super long and I didn’t know where to go, so
after some meters of climbing the only 2 things that I could do were to try the
sequence hoping to find out a good hold or say “take” to the belayer and mentally
prepare for the huge fall. After 5-6 huge falls on the slab I finally got the
chain, I could say “I’m safe for a while”. </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Wingdings; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-font-family: Verdana; mso-char-type: symbol; mso-hansi-font-family: Verdana; mso-symbol-font-family: Wingdings;">J</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">The next day I send
the route on my second try, really enjoying the upper slab because it’s not
that hard when you know how to do it.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">After this proj I
really didn’t know what to try so I spent 1 day, climbing easy stuff again
around 7b+ since I found out a new proj to work “Le chirurgien du crepuscule 8B”.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicoHDgVOP2LWXaBXU1Ep-16aUQJZG6VDth1uL01vKetT27hzg1S3cFqSLA6XSYu9HIe6ueyDAU-QURodirDnpGpKCyTyX3syqLocWNEvv0vDjIX3Fsehvm-P5WVqjJcPcOgcyIxJ56CAA/s1600/Le+chirurgien+du+crepuscul+8b,+Ceuse+(FRA)%2B2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicoHDgVOP2LWXaBXU1Ep-16aUQJZG6VDth1uL01vKetT27hzg1S3cFqSLA6XSYu9HIe6ueyDAU-QURodirDnpGpKCyTyX3syqLocWNEvv0vDjIX3Fsehvm-P5WVqjJcPcOgcyIxJ56CAA/s1600/Le+chirurgien+du+crepuscul+8b,+Ceuse+(FRA)%2B2.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The crux of "Le Chirurgien du crepuscule", Pic Fra Longhini</td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">I’m always been awed
about this route because every climbers I spoke with, told me that this route
could be the hardest 8b in Ceuse and every climbers I saw trying this route looked
like they did huge efforts screaming at every single move.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">I attempted once at
the end of the day configuring out the boulder sequence in the middle, that is
the hardest part of the route, but I was not able to reach the top because my
fingers tip were pissing out water so my hands hadn’t no more grip with the
rock. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">I did 2 days of
attempts but without any effort, the condition were pretty bad, the
temperatures increased a lot and I needed a lot of friction to have one chance
to pull off the route.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">So my time in Ceuse was definitely over after 16 days of pure fun, the only regret was leaving the uncompleted </span><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 19px; line-height: 22.233335494995117px;">proj for the next year, but that's part of climbing</span><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 19px; line-height: 22.233335494995117px;">.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 19px; line-height: 22.233335494995117px;">When I left the camping to get home, my mood was a mixture of </span><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: 19px; line-height: 22.233335494995117px;">happiness and sadness because my shoulder was on the way of healing but at same time leave this amazing place makes me every time sad.</span></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%;">The next day I was like in a depression post Ceuse, I spent one week at
home studying and climbing around Aosta Valley till I got a call from my friend
Francesco that was looking for a partner for 5 other days in Ceuse. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%;">I was
definitely super psyched so I didn’t hesitate even a second and I said “yes, I’m
with you”.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGIW-fujgjPYme_J4Q8uBTiemH16kqaL8gvwdFwtSsweNOV45ooDgj7N3A9UKaNoMEmepqHMFLq7OekzTx6QrHFXyXWl-S3JS97kFFc_DS57J86qWMllUwrBFnWxqfKox8lb3s-DEa_VI/s1600/Panoramica_senza+titolo3.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGIW-fujgjPYme_J4Q8uBTiemH16kqaL8gvwdFwtSsweNOV45ooDgj7N3A9UKaNoMEmepqHMFLq7OekzTx6QrHFXyXWl-S3JS97kFFc_DS57J86qWMllUwrBFnWxqfKox8lb3s-DEa_VI/s1600/Panoramica_senza+titolo3.jpg" height="258" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On top of the WORLD! SICK</td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">The day we travelled
back to Ceuse a big rain hit the camping, It rained all night long till the
next morning. When we woke up the wall was completely hidden by low clouds but
we didn’t lose the motivation for climbing because this is typical in Ceuse. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">In
fact around 13 o’clock the clouds were blown away from a cold wind and the
friction came. Francesco and my-self walked as fast as we could to the crag super
syked and definitely ready to enjoy the condition because It was one of the few
things I needed to take down the proj. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">At the end of the
day I was closer that never on “Le chirurgien du crepuscule”, I fall down at
the very end of the crux for frozen hands. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">The next day the
condition were even better, a little bit warmer but still really cold and luckily the wind had not yet ceased. This time I hadn’t any excuse, It was the send
day!!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">I did a pre-warm up
before the try to get my skin warm enough to feel the sharp pockets and the
crimps. Everything went fine and I got the rest-jug so I realized that If I had
been focused I would be able to get the chain because the last part is not so
hard but you can definitely fall I you makes just one mistake. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Moves after moves I
nailed the chain. I was super happy because I can say that this route is one of
the most amazing I climbed on, I was impressed from the insane type of holds that
it offers and from the many skills you need to climb it.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_7nXYGEWLbMAiRCCVdXBdH5FZQxac2kVeoCsqcwS18ptGWbBXoyjsnYDfHrCI1NuCdZQMRZwwQYzRQXfiN7PPP9NcH6Ki-4acrmz9YY2GG-pn6pZAfEWGdhZAkyBgVPEiPePALOzrvks/s1600/Le+chirurgien+du+crepuscul+8b,+Ceuse+(FRA).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_7nXYGEWLbMAiRCCVdXBdH5FZQxac2kVeoCsqcwS18ptGWbBXoyjsnYDfHrCI1NuCdZQMRZwwQYzRQXfiN7PPP9NcH6Ki-4acrmz9YY2GG-pn6pZAfEWGdhZAkyBgVPEiPePALOzrvks/s1600/Le+chirurgien+du+crepuscul+8b,+Ceuse+(FRA).jpg" height="640" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Almost at the end of the crux. Pic Fra Longhini</td></tr>
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<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXyf14JOB1yYaxmsrux__Q2HyXgXw1aZvitTq0h2YLM3S7TbMSGC7JKxLmTlM0QLmNmBet7XiHAypaspKDK94FZxNt6SLeh8y7A76rz_40oij5r-Xx3pJSiEvPNtX9CtK4eD2PuHhiMU8/s1600/Le+chirurgien+du+crepuscul+8b,+Ceuse+(FRA)%2B4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXyf14JOB1yYaxmsrux__Q2HyXgXw1aZvitTq0h2YLM3S7TbMSGC7JKxLmTlM0QLmNmBet7XiHAypaspKDK94FZxNt6SLeh8y7A76rz_40oij5r-Xx3pJSiEvPNtX9CtK4eD2PuHhiMU8/s1600/Le+chirurgien+du+crepuscul+8b,+Ceuse+(FRA)%2B4.jpg" height="640" width="410" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Insane move before the hard section! Pic Fra Longhini</td></tr>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
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<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">On the last 2 days
I put all of my energies to send “Dolce Vita 8A+” in Berlin sector and at the
very end I won the battle finishing these 21 days in Ceuse in the best way.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">These days spent in
Ceuse were a real blast, I met so many people and friends from all over the
world, I lived every single moment of the 2 trips, improving a lot my English
skills and my ping-pong skills ;)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Frankenjura is the
next, 15days left I guess. Time to get in shape for it!! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Soo fired up </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Wingdings; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-font-family: Verdana; mso-char-type: symbol; mso-hansi-font-family: Verdana; mso-symbol-font-family: Wingdings;">J</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11639519853764067150noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3374442532806814768.post-62264898979539471632014-07-11T12:00:00.002+02:002015-02-16T15:05:48.281+01:00Hard project in Gressoney + injury<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">After the trip to Frankenjura the motivation for sport-climbing raised a
lot and at the same time the summer broke out, the temperature started to get hotter
so the only thing to do to escape from this terrible hot weather is to leave to
the mountain in search of cooler condition. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">Actually the best summer destinations are in the south of the France where
within a radius of 100 km there is a very high concentration of amazing crags like
the well-known Ceuse, Entraygues, La Suame, Rocher de Brumes and many others.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">But It was not the time to leave the country again because It was the
time to back on the books and to University but my mind was still remembering
the great moments spent in Germany, so I needed find an hard project to work, close to my home, since I couldn’t leave the country for a while.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">It was not very difficult to find it because I've been waiting all
winter long to try it but still just to be finally able to come back on that
amazing sport climbing place that make me psyched every time. The crag is called
“La Benedizione” and it is situated in the upper part of Gressoney’s valley,
and offers an extraordinary quantity of beautiful lines featured by sustained
endurance climbing on all-natural crimps and pockets on a super granite
quality. The most important things to know about this place are that the
environment is very strict because you have to cross a large waterfall to
access the bottom of the sector, where it’s impossible to stay dry; then the
bottom of crag is not very comfortable and you must always be careful what you
do. The last thing but not less important is to keep in mind that everything
you climb from 6b+ to 8b range is graded very hard, everything should be
upgraded of at least half a grade, but all of this things are not enough to
keep me away from this outstanding crag. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjm7unebI7f6uN-brhzuEBI10bnjMyjg8-6HQx7p1QqFDnc9IM6J_-_xPqj461_bkMroVwoAqkc-dT1VGNE0jT8p0I6u2giYn2GTvG_8bxYZHAsehdO3O3jnBFkUDB4BRw-KbSldyNs0LQ/s1600/Gressoney+crag.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjm7unebI7f6uN-brhzuEBI10bnjMyjg8-6HQx7p1QqFDnc9IM6J_-_xPqj461_bkMroVwoAqkc-dT1VGNE0jT8p0I6u2giYn2GTvG_8bxYZHAsehdO3O3jnBFkUDB4BRw-KbSldyNs0LQ/s1600/Gressoney+crag.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"La Benedizione" crag, Gressoney (ITA)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">Sometimes is very hard to try to understand why just few people spend
their summer weekends to climb here, in a place where a climber has everything
he needs: stunning routes , a picturesque landscape, fresh condition but
nevertheless I guess that you have to be so fond of climbing where the beauty
of the routes comes before of its grade. Most of the climbers prefer to get a
8a route without bear in mind of its beauty and without much effort instead try
to send an easier dream-line which however can engage you for much longer time </span><span lang="EN-US"> </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">but that in the end will give you an immense
gratification anyway. This crag is the proof of all that I said.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">Every summer I climbed not a lot here because I was used to spent a lot of
time out of Italy as I had 3 months of holidays so I’m never been able to send
things harder than a 7c, but this year that I’m at the college I have the
summer exam session so I have to climb here around.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">The first time I came here this year was at the beginning of June when we
come back from Germany, and the route my brother and I were going for was
“Lucky Man 8C”. This line is situated in the middle of wall and It is the first
part of “SS26 8C+” opened by Alberto Gnerro in 2006. The route is something like
35 meters long and counts about 70 moves or more but the climbing is not just
pure-endurance but it’s also boudery because the hardest part of the route are
the first 15 meter (25 moves), around 8b+ route that allow to get into a slopy
rest. From here, there are still 20m (45 moves) route of about 7c+ where your
endurance come in.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">I got “Easy Rider 6b+” as warm up as usual and then I decided to try
sent an old project called “L’anestesista 7c+” where 2 years before I fell off
on the easy part because a foot slipped off. I decided to try this one because
despite being the best route in the crag I needed to start to put some endurance on my forearm because the past months I was used to do mostly boulders or short routes
like in Franken, so this routes counts about 70 moves as well so It was the perfect one
to train it. I put the quickdraws on and I brushed it up from the dirty that
the winter brought.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">I was able to crush this gem on my second go of the day, but It was a
big fight till the chain because when I clipped it I was superrrr pumped and I
felt my body exhaust. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">In the meantime Andre figured out the beta on Lucky Man and just before
the sun hit the wall I got an attempt to test the moves. I did all of them
quite well so I started to dream.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">The next 3 sessions of work went very well, I started to work the both
two sections separately; I was able to get second part without hang on and to
make promising links on the first one. Every time I was going always better and
my beta was improving more and more because just one push with of a foot a
little bit different could make the move easier, till when at the 3<sup>rd</sup>
session I decided to change my beta for the second crux of the first part
because I felt so hard to do it in the original way. Basically I used the very
same hold but taken in another way and with different hands that makes it hard
as well but way better for my climbing style.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">June 22, I planned another session in the crag with my brother and many
friends of mine so It was the 4<sup>th</sup> day on the proj. I got usual warm
up on the 6b+ and on the 7a+ and then I was ready for the first attempt. I got
my skin warm and I started to climb move after move and in one second I was
down for an hold wet. I was pissed but I took a rag and I dried up the wet
hold. I decided to take a long rest because I known to have just one more try
because my skin was destroyed and It was pissing out water.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">After about one hours I decided that it was the time for the last try;
this time the hold was dry and I got the good hold that divided the 2 section
of the first part. I chalked up, I took the side pull with the right hand I upped the feet above
the little roof, I took the intermediate and I fell down to catch the last good
crimp, few moves before the rest point. I take a breath and I re-climbed the
move where I fell down and I got the rest-point, I shaked my forearm and I was
able to do it till the chain without hanging on. I was super happy because I
was getting closer and closer so on the next days every tries could be the
right one.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">My skin was destroyed but I was not still tired so I decided to get one
try to check the moves on “GLORY DAYS 8A”, an outstanding 35/40 meters with
very long thrilling run outs.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">I was excited as nobody else to come back there very soon, even just to
enjoy this outstanding place because it makes you forget everything.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;"><br /></span>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgL-3Ckiqb1OVPbhtav84bbb7QnDYaAIioCn1m1A2AiFD6W5Maa-sqfq6DRWlEEg8kvtY3IgCZaBQqy_pX-4RXcTV1RQ_TCdGGyw-Kv_Hao0lzXuZWmg18lXNOWEm5ETYAxLbs2v99rRDA/s1600/Glory+Days+8a,+Monkee+Catalog+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgL-3Ckiqb1OVPbhtav84bbb7QnDYaAIioCn1m1A2AiFD6W5Maa-sqfq6DRWlEEg8kvtY3IgCZaBQqy_pX-4RXcTV1RQ_TCdGGyw-Kv_Hao0lzXuZWmg18lXNOWEm5ETYAxLbs2v99rRDA/s1600/Glory+Days+8a,+Monkee+Catalog+2.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Glory Days 8a, Gressoney Credit: Andrea Zanone</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">The work on the route was going very well despite sometime I felt not
enough strong to pull off the proj nevertheless my motivation was always very
high because I guess that this is the typical progress when you try hard stuff.
Sometime you feel close enough to say “Yes is possible”, but many time your
body is not able to give 100%, feeling tired or just not convinced enough to
take it down. However the best thing to do is to think positive because one day
you will be able to tick the route.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">The last day I was in the crag, I started to feel a bit of pain on my
right shoulder after the usual warm up but I didn’t pay much attention and I
kept climbing anyway. I did 3 tries on the proj and on the last try I thought
for a moment to have done the hardest part but everything was blown away cuz my
right hand slipped off as it has been wet. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">The day finished very well anyway because I was able to send “Glory
Days” after an epic war against the pump. I was really satisfied. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">The next day my shoulder starting to be more painful, I had a constant
pang on the arm but I had never expected that it will be something problematic.
The evening besides the pain, I saw that when I moved the arm my shoulder blade
came out, It was like I had a ball on my back. I was speechless and a bit
afraid because I didn’t know what to do and my mind had already understand that
I had stop climbing for a while. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">The
Monday morning I went to the doctor that diagnosed a strained of my thoracic
nerve due to overload training or due to a big effort and said to me that I had
to stop climbing for at least 2 weeks and then I would have to go back for another
visit. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">Now it’s 13 days I rest and more have to come, but I have to think
positive. I would like to say thanks to my friends that have support me, It has been very helpful and
great.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">Now i'm off to Friedrichshafen Outdoor Fair in few hours, I’m super psyched to be there.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11639519853764067150noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3374442532806814768.post-19344301342374546682014-06-09T16:41:00.000+02:002014-06-09T16:58:39.581+02:00Climbing through the history: FRANKENJURA.<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">The Frankenjura
might be one of the world's most famous sport climbing areas where back in the
days guys like Wolfgang Güllich, Kurt Albert, Jerry Moffat and many others
started to write a piece of climbing history, developing the idea of rotpunkt (red-point)
and raising the standard level achieve at that time.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%;">Actually is not
just this history that pulls up into the area but the incredible collection of
hundreds of small rocks spread over the woods. This region is situated in the
triangle between the three cities of Bamberg, Bayreuth and Nürnberg and counts
something like 1000 crags with a huge number of routes.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">This place was in
my mind for a long time because I had always heard rumors saying that it was
amazing and the climbing was mostly powerful and intense because the routes are
pretty short ranging from 10m to 20meters. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">I’d not never
expected to be able to planned a trip to this magic place till next September,
actually just because it was the time to go to college and the next holiday would
have been more forward, but one day Gabri Moroni asked to my brother and me, if
we wanted to enjoy a little trip to Franken with Emanuele and he.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Skip the school was
not a problem so I took advantages of this suggestion and I said “yes we are”.
Gabri probably was the first people I would have chosen for the first trip to
Franken because he has been there several times so he can be defined as a local
climber. During the trip he recommended us some of most classic routes you have
to climb, from 8a to 8b range. <o:p></o:p></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhI174Pp_v7g0vS8uloM6iT0qNuMo-bJ3_pr6tXhxmPZHnLFqYgHruBdUMGsEwYkoyEv0Z5euHj-smyI13bUiVX6ejXhfqteyoPT6garbYtOWm7ldlt64r4hRIAvglBB2P6_JiqIrtAiLM/s1600/Boiling+Point.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhI174Pp_v7g0vS8uloM6iT0qNuMo-bJ3_pr6tXhxmPZHnLFqYgHruBdUMGsEwYkoyEv0Z5euHj-smyI13bUiVX6ejXhfqteyoPT6garbYtOWm7ldlt64r4hRIAvglBB2P6_JiqIrtAiLM/s1600/Boiling+Point.jpg" height="360" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Video frame of Boiling Point 8b, Frankenjura.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">The first 2 days of
climbing the climbing condition were not the best because there were high
temperature with a very high percentage of humidity but there 3 days later the
condition were way worse because a heavy rain hits us. The main goals of these
first days of climbing was “Nightmare 8B” and “Ekel 7C+” both at Eldorado
sector and “Casablanca 8A+” at Holzgauer sector.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">I was so close on
another proj called “Subway 8B” that runs along a wall-shaped wave with
something like 10 hard moves on weird holds. For the crux was at the end of the
wave, where the inclination of the wall change, because from a small crimp with
the right hand you had to do a dynamic into a 3 fingers jug. There was a
“static” way for this move too that consists to match the small crimp and go to
the jug more easily but I preferred the dynamic way instead just because It
suited me better.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">After the 3 days of
raining the temperature get colder and the friction came. Each of us had a
project on his mind for example me and Ema wanted to get better on Subway,
Gabri wanted to try to send “Hattori Hanzo 8C+” tried few days before and
Andrea wanted to try “Queeel Dich, Du Sau 8B/+”. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">I woke up really sycked because
the day seemed to be so promising, we went directly to Bärenschlucht sector
were we got a quick wamp up. Ema and my-self moved to Subway for the second
sesh on the route so I did a try to complete the warm up and to get used to the
moves way better. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">I needed 4 more
attempts to be able to get to the top because the 3 tries before I fall down at
the very last hard move due to little mistakes. The day finished as well for
Gabri and Andre that were able to take down their respective project. Ema get
progress on Subway, being almost able to figure out the first double dyno move that is the hardest one for
him.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">The following last
2 days we checked Maximilian sector and Rotenstein sector where Gabri show us
many other must-do routes . At the first one I was able to send in few tries a
super classic “Boiling point 8b” and “Bad brain 8a+” instead at the other one I
sent 2 amazing lines following the 2 edges of a rectangular shaped-wall. The 2
lines are called “ Die Kante 8a+” and “Engel & Bestien 8a” both top 10
routes I’ve ever done.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifDi3gQv6BgVpQcX10NaUEcwlAz_l7k_hucfyPopl17wAArCc4xeNXBQZpYlRxQoxRN1W-LRs_qf6Z5PIEz0Sbn8cB2iRp5npczvq3D2Fu01UimBxOSDeh3RRWbhUPWz08YCODk9xYjaA/s1600/Die+Kante+8a++Franken.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifDi3gQv6BgVpQcX10NaUEcwlAz_l7k_hucfyPopl17wAArCc4xeNXBQZpYlRxQoxRN1W-LRs_qf6Z5PIEz0Sbn8cB2iRp5npczvq3D2Fu01UimBxOSDeh3RRWbhUPWz08YCODk9xYjaA/s1600/Die+Kante+8a++Franken.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Die Kante 8a+ pic. Andrea Zanone</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">This was a very successful
and positive trip not just because I sent quite hard but actually because I
travelled and climbed through a piece of climbing history, trying and seeing
routes that had been climbed about 20 years ago.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11639519853764067150noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3374442532806814768.post-69431729681750046072014-05-12T20:39:00.004+02:002014-05-12T21:34:50.870+02:00First time in Magic Wood this year<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Magic Wood is one of
the place I have always been attracted and motivated to climb because Its
location is absolutely incredible and there is a huge quantity of amazing
problems from 6a to 8c range. I fall in love with the forest since the first
visit in 2011. When the season ended in Ticino I was super sycked to check as soon as
possible the wood because I had a a long wish list of the projects that I would like
to do or at least to try. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">So I planned with
Andrea, Gabry and Marco (a friend of Andrea and mine) 2 days in the forest
because The weather forecast seemed to be very promising with super climbing
condition. We left Italy and in about 3 hours we were at the Generoso
guesthouse where we rented a small room where we could sleep. Here there was a huge
kitchen too in common with the others rooms. We left our stuff and we went to enjoy
the boulders.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">After a quick warm
up Marco sent in few tries “Stress Man 7A” so we moved to try “Muttertag 8a”
well known to be one the best one move
boulder here around. The first attempts
I tried to grab the crimp with the RH but every time my hand wasn’t able to
stick it so I decided to change my beta and to try to jump with my LH. I felt
better and I started to lock the crimp without being able to hold the swing.
After a couple of tries I did it and I could say that this is the most
phenomenal one move I’ve ever done.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Then we went to
check “Jack’s broken heart 8A” where
Gabri was able to send the direct finish called “Tintenfisch alarm 8A+”.
Gabri explained to me JBH ‘s beta so I decided to get one try one from the
start but just try. Suddently I found myself after the hardest part where there
are 2 big slopy rails where I took breath and I shaked a bit because I
realized that I couldn’t
make any mistake, just few moves and I’ll be at top. My hands turned ice
but luckily everything went perfectly. When I was at the top I felt so tired as
I played a football match breathing heavily but I was super excited to have
flash my first 8A boulder.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTQtDxaGnHzVf_-LNrBtjn0ZDHd-D0dfVdAoRzZxSncc74B6eGThrZ6UnFCmP5uwtNp-cKC6cJNpdAMkTC9Lv_KXmsOovATi08Yfp0YgKX6hYHH2jYywWt19DcUgR6dV7svXau4kvclPw/s1600/Jack's+broken+heart+8a+flash.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTQtDxaGnHzVf_-LNrBtjn0ZDHd-D0dfVdAoRzZxSncc74B6eGThrZ6UnFCmP5uwtNp-cKC6cJNpdAMkTC9Lv_KXmsOovATi08Yfp0YgKX6hYHH2jYywWt19DcUgR6dV7svXau4kvclPw/s1600/Jack's+broken+heart+8a+flash.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jack's broken heart in Magic Wood - Pic Andrea Zanone</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Few goes after
Andrea sent the problem too so we moved to our real project “Riverbed 8B”.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">I took a rest and I
ate something because I needed to recover the energies lost from the big effort
few time before.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">When I felt ready I
started to try all the singles moves and I about 10 minutes of work I
configured out my beta. I felt the singles moves pretty easy but the hard of
the boulder is to be still fresh and strong enough to stick the last moves at the
end of the roof. The line is composed of about 8 easy moves on jugs on the
first part of the cave where you join the end of the cave and the start of the
horizontal roof. From there, there are more than 10 hard moves with a lot of hell
and toe hook, where you have to climb really fast to save as much power as you
can.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">I had really good
tries from the bottom falling just 2 moves before the end of the roof because I
felt without energies and power. I was completely exhaust</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">The second day
passed really quickly, I tried again Riverbed and I fall again at the same point but with a
little more energies. I think that It’s just question of time and of tries
because if you are able to metabolize the movements in the best way you can have a chance to do it.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">I’m really sycked
to be back in the forest as soon as I can because I have a lot of stuff to do.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11639519853764067150noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3374442532806814768.post-27535894533782022232014-04-20T22:00:00.003+02:002014-04-20T22:53:59.673+02:00A Winter in TICINO<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Ticino this winter was
such a dope for me because It offers some of the best boulders in the world
very close to my home.</span><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%;"> </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%;">I checked, always with good friends, the 3 areas around
Ticino, Chironico, Cresciano and Brione depending on the period and on the
climbing conditions because this winter was pretty rainy with warm temperatures so It was difficult to choose the right place. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Due to this problem sometimes we
left home even if the weather forecasts didn’t seem so good so we found a lot of
stuff soaking wet and unclimbable.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Actually I’m really
satisfied about what I was able to get this winter season. Okay, for sure It’s
not what Jimmy Webb done and is doing now in Europe that is impressive, but I’m
really glad because I saw a change on the mental approach on the project and
the training was paid off.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicEw2Ctry2Jz2o8XSWyUQUwDVa3uifY2xqzfrIoVbehyphenhyphenMjeyzJfBUw_edSkNAqsJ9NaUsh028oeVXUZVmKNr_HF2uiAkngYt4kR_A_P2UdjENql1srurn4lIkpcL3fZ-PYBif_e5t6-_U/s1600/Delusion+of+Grandeur+8a%252B.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEicEw2Ctry2Jz2o8XSWyUQUwDVa3uifY2xqzfrIoVbehyphenhyphenMjeyzJfBUw_edSkNAqsJ9NaUsh028oeVXUZVmKNr_HF2uiAkngYt4kR_A_P2UdjENql1srurn4lIkpcL3fZ-PYBif_e5t6-_U/s1600/Delusion+of+Grandeur+8a%252B.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Delusion of Grandeur, Chironico. Pic Andrea Zanone</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">This is the list of
problems sent:<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">-</span><span lang="EN-US"> </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Delusion
of grandeur 8A+ Chironico<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">- Black Pearl 8A
Brione<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">- Freak Brother 8A
Chiron</span><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%;">ico</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">- Entwash direct 8A
Brione<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%;">- Frogger 8A Brione<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">- Blochx Addiction
8A Chironico<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">- Bridge Over
Troubled Waters 7C+/8A Chironico<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">- Special Edition
7C+ Brione<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">- Jungle Book 7C+
Cresciano<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">- Tricky 7c
Chironico.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Basically everything
that I was able to pull off, went down in a session of work. Now the winter is
over and in Ticino is actually too hot for bouldering but there are a lot of
other places where I’d like to enjoy as Magic Wood, Fionnay and many more.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Happy Easter to
everybody! See you the next.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZkJZxH89eibOTi_4oFZjJJ2Uy25KNwArrz9au_Aqb5gJoJcaLhYSSd-y4HLYJZSLM3Cze2RRI2xFsJ1-hKnyGKbN1JD-A9CGFCSPNPMMCM1QN-vBAj868Y_ZUJxSyHdSQRT3gKb0eWnk/s1600/Brione+frogger.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZkJZxH89eibOTi_4oFZjJJ2Uy25KNwArrz9au_Aqb5gJoJcaLhYSSd-y4HLYJZSLM3Cze2RRI2xFsJ1-hKnyGKbN1JD-A9CGFCSPNPMMCM1QN-vBAj868Y_ZUJxSyHdSQRT3gKb0eWnk/s1600/Brione+frogger.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Frogger, Brione. Pic Andrea Zanone</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6Txr3ZiWX5I3S8EO4srk8DdF3Fw4IpUj65cuM-FUYrgz1Le4qDwLuUUHqg6mRMLJCMUrvpRJEPC8j24CPH6O6YVynNaaUiLzGc1lBfCO59JnnhmFPiR9I5go99H6B51OCIt_ZDgSL54A/s1600/Black+Pearl+8a%252B+Brione.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6Txr3ZiWX5I3S8EO4srk8DdF3Fw4IpUj65cuM-FUYrgz1Le4qDwLuUUHqg6mRMLJCMUrvpRJEPC8j24CPH6O6YVynNaaUiLzGc1lBfCO59JnnhmFPiR9I5go99H6B51OCIt_ZDgSL54A/s1600/Black+Pearl+8a%252B+Brione.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Black Pearl, Brione. Pic Andrea Zanone</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11639519853764067150noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3374442532806814768.post-63800742603025775312014-03-27T14:34:00.001+01:002014-04-03T10:17:19.697+02:00Little trip to Finale Ligure<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">Many places for a new trip roamed in my head after the last trip to
Spain because I would have liked to return to Spain or to visit a new place as
the “Frankenjura” in Germany but due to high costs, the limited time available
and the temperatures a bit cold in Frankenjura we opted to do a week in Finale
Ligure in northwest of Italy. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">Despite being very close from our home, about 2 hours, I climbed very
little in this great place where there are a lot of awesome routes from the 8a
to 8b+ range. I got a ticklist of my projects before departure in order to have
an idea of the sportclimbing cliffs that we would like to enjoy.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">We rented a small flat from Sunday, March 9 to the following Sunday for
a total of 8 possible days of climbing.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">The first day we went to the “Alveare sector” to check some old school
routes as “Hyena 8b” but basically it was impossible to try this fingery and
technical testpiece because it was freaking hot, being exposed at the sun all
day. Despite to this fail I was able to flash “Viaggio nel futuro” that follow
a roof with tricky toe hooks and tension moves. Just out of the roof there is
the crux move that consists on an awesome dyno to a jug with the RH where you
can rest before the 6c slab.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_mEbO8f7H4VDQBRsNsc3ximW5JKFfyvAQv_svVCn7MwF5o5z6mi2OIZ2JSm4ZZnluAPxZIKjqU7dgIaPiy7p99_R913ew-UzigwfqfyRpsDKWsZxud5Nb8n8uLLreMO6OXYpJrZLcuSY/s1600/Viaggio+nel+futuro+7c%252B+flash.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_mEbO8f7H4VDQBRsNsc3ximW5JKFfyvAQv_svVCn7MwF5o5z6mi2OIZ2JSm4ZZnluAPxZIKjqU7dgIaPiy7p99_R913ew-UzigwfqfyRpsDKWsZxud5Nb8n8uLLreMO6OXYpJrZLcuSY/s1600/Viaggio+nel+futuro+7c%252B+flash.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Viaggio nel futuro 7c+ - Alveare ( Finale Ligure )</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">The following 2 days the weather was bad but we were looking forward to
climb so we decided to check a cool cave with few hard lines from the 8b to the
8b+ range because we thought that it was one of the less cliffs that could be
dry. Despite being sheltered the topout was totally wet. We opted to try “Da
Berlino non si scappa 8b+” so I got a try on it to warm up because the easy
slabs out of the cave were a straight of water.<span id="goog_930328292"></span><span id="goog_930328293"></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">I basically figured out all moves expect the hardest one at the half of
the route that consists to do a dynamic move into a slopy undercling jug where
the 2 sides of the cave are combined. On my third go, after an hard struggle I
sent the line with the topout wet because thanks to my high I was able to skip
the last “hard” move going directly to an undercling jug that was grabable even
if was wet. I did the last easy moves with ice and wet hands and finally I
clipped the chain. <o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfchBxJMSagol8foU2Si5l6_7LsV9i6RRSBmClXDgUQKNZFzJTWPbJULvneeNY5z9qPBkeCcoqA2amsJ4NMI8JauiaiijWFJspVpAhVBeOXLx5uj4D__O10uCFDPMRUSQaXLPB0zMcHmc/s1600/Da+Berlino+non+si+scappa+8b%252B.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfchBxJMSagol8foU2Si5l6_7LsV9i6RRSBmClXDgUQKNZFzJTWPbJULvneeNY5z9qPBkeCcoqA2amsJ4NMI8JauiaiijWFJspVpAhVBeOXLx5uj4D__O10uCFDPMRUSQaXLPB0zMcHmc/s1600/Da+Berlino+non+si+scappa+8b%252B.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Da Berlino non si scappa 8b+ - Tecchie ( Finale Ligure )</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">The other high points of the trip were “Belgarath 8b” and “Cucco in alto
8b”.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">Berlgath was the primary ticklist project of the holiday but the first
days was wet because it features by outstanding tiny tofas. We waited the end
of the trip to try this great testpiece.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">The routes suited me perfectly since the first try but the hard is not
to be strong to stick the holds but to be able to put your feet on small and
smooth flakes very well. I fall down at the last hard moves because my right
foot slipped off 2 time in row. On the 5<sup>th</sup> tries of the day I
attempted the routes quite easily but I was really satisfied.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">The other 8b “Cucco in alto” is definitely the most discontinuous routes
I’ve ever done because there are 3 boulder problems in 35 meters of routes with
2 total rest where you can shake very well and take breathe until you are
rested again. The first crux is the hardest of the routes and consists on a 7b
boulder problem with sick climbing on a prou, the second one is around 6c+/7a
boulder and the last one is a technical slab with tiny pockets where the use of
feet is fundamental. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">I crushed it on my second attempt finishing the trip in best way. I’m
sure I want to come back here as soon as possible to enjoy this climbing again.
Onto the next! </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Wingdings; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-font-family: Verdana; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt; mso-char-type: symbol; mso-hansi-font-family: Verdana; mso-symbol-font-family: Wingdings;">J</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 19px; line-height: 21.466665267944336px;"><br /></span>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">!!The all picture was taken on a tripod with the self-timer!!<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<br /></div>
</div>
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="281" mozallowfullscreen="" src="//player.vimeo.com/video/90770658" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="500"></iframe> <br />
<a href="http://vimeo.com/90770658">Finale Ligure # Climbing</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user5971791">Marco Zanone</a> on <a href="https://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a>.
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11639519853764067150noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3374442532806814768.post-54278456246699198712014-01-30T17:37:00.002+01:002014-04-03T10:19:19.196+02:00Global Warming<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">The global warming adventure started when I was in Spain and one evening
I spoke with my brother, Luca Bazooka
and Gabri about this boulder and each of us was so motivated to try it so we planned
a mission to checked the line all togethere.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">Global Warming is an outstanding line ,that runs through a roof for 12
movements with amazing feet works and
toe hooks, opened by Niccolò Ceria about one year ago.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">We gave the appointment Sunday, January 12 at
the cafè in Quincinetto for a coffee so getting ready for the hiking till the
first boulders, where my brother and I, warmed up.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">Gabri , Bazoo and others friends went to the back side of the area where
there are some cool lines to climbed joined us after lunch. In the meantime I
climbed an amazing line feature by a small 2 fingers pocket opened by Alberto
Gnerro but still unnamed.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">After ascended the 7b+ I felt warm and ready to check the roof, so we
walked for 10 minutes more, finally reaching this fabulous plateau featured by
some other interesting blocks including Global Warming.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVFyWQiQn0X_Oux9HOVb5KtC1UNqVC0y0uAuAF6Ed8BZMCzIUA0QRuDmeXVrgBP69mUDyzCDwaD3nKJM9waQ-X3g1Q4Lyq9P0qagrydDeD7f9XW_JfoLIXerj5aH5KzoSgBq79a7270M4/s1600/7b%252B+donnas.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVFyWQiQn0X_Oux9HOVb5KtC1UNqVC0y0uAuAF6Ed8BZMCzIUA0QRuDmeXVrgBP69mUDyzCDwaD3nKJM9waQ-X3g1Q4Lyq9P0qagrydDeD7f9XW_JfoLIXerj5aH5KzoSgBq79a7270M4/s1600/7b%252B+donnas.jpg" height="408" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Unamed 7b+ Pic Andrea Zanone</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">I had lunch, resting a bit from the tiring walk, so in the meantime the
rest of the crew arrived, we were ready to test it!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">Actually this was not my first sesh on the boulder because Andrea and I
decided to dust off the block the day before, so we took the opportunity to try
some singles moves out of curiosity.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">I was really happy about my second session because I </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">was able to
configured out all single moves except the hardest one, the swing. I wasn't strong
enough to control the swing, dabbing every time the crashpad. Gabri and Andrea
were able to do this tension move giving to me the motivation to came back
stronger! </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Wingdings; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">J</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">The bad weather came so we had to stop trying this rig for about 2 weeks
but I took advantage of this period to train specifically doing weights,
abdominal and fingers board. I started to feel better, the weather conditions
came back good and we were waiting amazing sunny days to be spent on the proj.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">I kept in touch with Bazo and Gabri </span><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 19px; line-height: 21.466665267944336px;">again</span><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;"> planning another session all togethere,
in order to try to take this rebus </span><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 19px; line-height: 21.466665267944336px;">down</span><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">. Gabri was able to send it in a couple
of tries, after having warm up doing the finals movement of the lines. Andrea
did it too surprising everyone, because he started climbing without saying
anything to anyone, when I turned my head he was about to jump and in a
second he was able to stick the swing and complete his first 8b boulder
problem.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 14pt; line-height: 115%;">It was a really good day for Bazo and me as well because we were able to
keep the swing and make some good tries from the bottom.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">I was closer and closer but at one point I was too tired to have any
chance so I decided to postpone to another session before the bad weather hits
us again.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">This day was yesterday, Tuesday, January 29, that I went to Donnas with
my brother Andrea and Valentina with just one mission “try to send the project”.
The climbing condition was super, it was really windy and quite cold, so I
would have no excuse if I was not able to climb it. At about 1 o’clock we were
under the roof so I begins to gain confidence in the most climbable part so
much that I could hold the swing again, making me so hopeful.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">After few tries from the ground I was able to get the hardest move and
in a second I found myself after the mantle. It took a few seconds before I
realized that I did it and then I looked
at my hands and I saw that I had a gash on his finger.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBGt8xqn7hBgVc7cfKP8A-4ENVc8x0UQXv4iI5Lmyq1os3K9VkNlLZ6K5ZjHtX64M7nhEDq8XnV-ikBpiWXl6499tPPgWe-z7piVY43WgEL3hv1qW0ZHWrK2TR9az66wt8pft_ZA_H2W0/s1600/Global+warming+8b+Marco.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBGt8xqn7hBgVc7cfKP8A-4ENVc8x0UQXv4iI5Lmyq1os3K9VkNlLZ6K5ZjHtX64M7nhEDq8XnV-ikBpiWXl6499tPPgWe-z7piVY43WgEL3hv1qW0ZHWrK2TR9az66wt8pft_ZA_H2W0/s1600/Global+warming+8b+Marco.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Global Warming - Pic Andrea Zanone</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div style="text-align: left;">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">I will not believe, the blood was pouring, but everybody know that “NO PAIN,
NO GAIN”, so I was really satisfied.</span><br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 14.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">This was one of the greatest experience of my climbing life because try a line with some other strong climbers is sooo much motivating, configure the beta all togethere is amazing, you can feel much stronger than you're and these little things, all together, make the difference! :)</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
<br /></div>
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="281" mozallowfullscreen="" src="//player.vimeo.com/video/85436055" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="500"></iframe> <br />
<a href="http://vimeo.com/85436055">Global Warming 8B</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user5971791">Marco Zanone</a> on <a href="https://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a>.<br />
<br />
<br />
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="281" mozallowfullscreen="" src="//player.vimeo.com/video/84062732" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="500"></iframe> <br />
<a href="http://vimeo.com/84062732">Unamed 7b+ in Donnas (AO)</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user5971791">Marco Zanone</a> on <a href="https://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a>.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11639519853764067150noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3374442532806814768.post-45098860453594551062014-01-26T17:46:00.004+01:002014-01-26T18:56:28.637+01:00From Spain with love<div class="MsoNormal">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1wzU14Pq9Biu9lgotFoHhZlXqvvg9LrPLCplFs2VxGsfdj3QIe_PMLHWAh7G_6AldaBsp18f32F_80G10YKxRXheQD_312eGdxebkleS8m4gC710e6KL37i9xzGL3VrUjlvrfN3J6AZ8/s1600/Siurana+paese+%252B+falesie.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1wzU14Pq9Biu9lgotFoHhZlXqvvg9LrPLCplFs2VxGsfdj3QIe_PMLHWAh7G_6AldaBsp18f32F_80G10YKxRXheQD_312eGdxebkleS8m4gC710e6KL37i9xzGL3VrUjlvrfN3J6AZ8/s1600/Siurana+paese+%252B+falesie.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View from Siurana</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span>
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">After one month
spent on bouldering in Ticino I was
ready for some </span><br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">sport climbing in Spain
as every year with my family. Down there the crew was so big, so I was able to
see again friends I had not seen for a long time and I was able to climb back
into this wonderful place too that I dreamed of a year round. <o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">We had a really
long 11 hours trip by car from Biella to
Cornudella de Montasant that is a little village witch adapted itself for
climbing because everything revolves around for climbing, without whom there
would be nothing, if not for its wine producing.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">The first day checked
a new sector called “Siuranella Sud” because there was a really windy day so we
saw form the guidebook that this crag
was sheltered from the wind. When we arrived at the sector I realized that this
was the best choice because there was few climbers and an amazing limestone
wall with blue and red/orange streak was in front of my eyes.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">After a quite warm
up I chose an 8a+ on a blue streaks that drove me crazy, I did the first go
configuring out all single moves with the help of my brother Andrea and Patrick.
On my second go I fall as stupid missing a good crimp on the crux but then I
climbed it to the top. I was happy anyway about this try because I said that it
was possible, but 10 minutes later my friend Patrick broke the only good crimp
of the the crux making it impossible or very hard, so the first project was blown
away.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%;">When I saw the
crimp skip away I was incredulous
because </span><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%;">usually</span><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 18px; line-height: 20.700000762939453px;"> </span><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 18px; line-height: 20.700000762939453px;">the rock quality</span><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%;"> on blue streaks is really high and really
solid, so I could not imagine that such a thing to happen.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWG6UWFOi8pKgXA9ODD0OvHrVtADqNWGjSY4-MTikBILyxBGkZGRnkMYKMaZz0wsUB2uw6r-NT0OumR1eFH-Dxv5xtRKwxDmjoBN3GeTyWbHHtf_t6SIG1UCOLr2CH5mkmTlLhNnNKQlU/s1600/morena+de+mont+sant+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWG6UWFOi8pKgXA9ODD0OvHrVtADqNWGjSY4-MTikBILyxBGkZGRnkMYKMaZz0wsUB2uw6r-NT0OumR1eFH-Dxv5xtRKwxDmjoBN3GeTyWbHHtf_t6SIG1UCOLr2CH5mkmTlLhNnNKQlU/s1600/morena+de+mont+sant+2.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Morena del Montsant</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">The second day we
decided to change place after the big fail of the first dayso we went to Margalef's classic cliff called “Racò de l’Espadelles” that it is in the sun all
day making it perfect for climbing.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">There was such a
great bunch of climbers that I warmed up on a 7a+ with the quickdraws put
on because I was too lazy to wait for
easier stuff. Then I finished my warm up trying the singles moves of “El Sistema
7c+” that I was able to get on my second attempt.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">After that I did
not know whether to try my brother’ project or something of easier so after
having look out the guidebook I found this cool line situated on my favorite
piece of wall of the cliff. The 4 routes here( from 7c+ to 8b) are features
from a first bouldery wall that allow to get a good rest and from a second wall
that is more technical and where your endurance is really important. <o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">My friends Luca
from Tuscany had already get an attempt on it so he explain to me his beta, so
with some different feet works I got all singles moves without much
effort. I decided to do a good rest in
order to be able to give the 100% on my second try, trying to send my first 8a+
in 2 goes. I did the first boulder really well without getting pumped, I rested
a bit and then the fight started until the mantle when the wall became more
vertical, where you can say “ I DID IT” even before to clip the chain.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnTAleJMeuKNPcsm9NCR-7BkU2ASJ5-sH0d8Ak_jbg8FDv8j4FckkN9ChnAdGFZb6KCWAN_ad5TbgG5LVMj9EJvoPVtGBUE3V6ZqDDxZfFgxSzRSOKhoLie_EVn2gU8Iao1xOQdXsJK1E/s1600/braguetasso+8a%252B+marco.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnTAleJMeuKNPcsm9NCR-7BkU2ASJ5-sH0d8Ak_jbg8FDv8j4FckkN9ChnAdGFZb6KCWAN_ad5TbgG5LVMj9EJvoPVtGBUE3V6ZqDDxZfFgxSzRSOKhoLie_EVn2gU8Iao1xOQdXsJK1E/s1600/braguetasso+8a%252B+marco.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Braguetasso - Margalef Pic <span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%;">©</span> </span>Pierre Zanone</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%;">The great journey
finished as well at the bar with friends, where we shared the ascents of the
day with a fresh Estrella. </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Wingdings; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%;">J</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Wingdings; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-font-family: Verdana; mso-char-type: symbol; mso-hansi-font-family: Verdana; mso-symbol-font-family: Wingdings;"></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Wingdings; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-font-family: Verdana; mso-char-type: symbol; mso-hansi-font-family: Verdana; mso-symbol-font-family: Wingdings;"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">The last day of the
year I went with Gabri and Petardo to Can Pigui Pugui in Siurana which is my
favorite area here in Siurana, because there is an incredible limestone quality
which makes the climbing really technical and crimpy. Instead my brother and my
parents went to Espadelles again because Andre was soo close on his project.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">My planned here was
to try “Mr Cheki 8b+” but after having seen the line I decided to fly down so I
tried the variant called “Bou I prou 8b” that starts leftmost then rejoin at
the final crux.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">After have sent
“Anabolica 8a” in 2 tries, I put my quickdraws on the project and I configured
out my beta. On my second go I was so close to take this thing down, even a
moment I thought “yes, I can do it” because I got the hardest part reaching the
jug, where you can shake you forearm a bit and take breathing. Just few moves
left me after the 6b slab but one of these moves is so weird and harder if you
are tall because from the jug you take a small pocket with the left hand and
with a really left foot high you have to get into a small crimp.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Unfortunately I fall off at the
very last move, taking the crimp with the right one, because I too was tired or
because I was sure to do it, I dunno what to think! <o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Gabri was closer
than ever on his nemesis “A muerte”, falling to take the jug because he took the
left crimp so bad instead Petardo was able to get a really hard 7b+ on the right that looked so cool, seeing Pet climb on it.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">After that last
climb of the year we went to the Tony’s cafè for some estrellas waiting the
others friends from Margalef in order to get warm for the year-end party! </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Wingdings; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-font-family: Verdana; mso-char-type: symbol; mso-hansi-font-family: Verdana; mso-symbol-font-family: Wingdings;">J</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"> <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">I leave you to
imagine how the night is over…<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">The rest-day the
first day of the year is a must for me because I have to bounce back from the
hangover and take rest after 3 days of climbing in a row.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">The first climbing
day after the party we came back to Can Pigui Pugui because I was sycked to
take the project down! Fortunately everything went very well so I crushed it on
my 2<sup>nd</sup> attempt of the day.<o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyYH3Zji58faIwV8G5QVNycTikSwSl-YxiIx_3oP85Dv4c0SPl2APSZU-oqBzMQd8ryr_qz-cKjSJVL1QhQYSxP4oXs3hzVKLkJ4FIqaIlsx6VgDCOKfPfZkaveu7b4HKZR3Gw_5vkXWg/s1600/bou+i+prou+8b+marco+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyYH3Zji58faIwV8G5QVNycTikSwSl-YxiIx_3oP85Dv4c0SPl2APSZU-oqBzMQd8ryr_qz-cKjSJVL1QhQYSxP4oXs3hzVKLkJ4FIqaIlsx6VgDCOKfPfZkaveu7b4HKZR3Gw_5vkXWg/s1600/bou+i+prou+8b+marco+2.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bou I prou - Siurana Pic <span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;">©</span> Pierre Zanone</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrhb2JlfuX7gtxvoBMCHLV5W5pPvMiJy32GVxO8495_tpq3eZuUTaqRbjkvBE7lQCwZWX3TjzAMuHbQI0Kp8D6KOA1MiQwjn1rgF1xQrtNJxy68AIiK2jHw4RzYvmjay7CX2XD_QUQ9iY/s1600/bou+i+prou+8b+marco.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrhb2JlfuX7gtxvoBMCHLV5W5pPvMiJy32GVxO8495_tpq3eZuUTaqRbjkvBE7lQCwZWX3TjzAMuHbQI0Kp8D6KOA1MiQwjn1rgF1xQrtNJxy68AIiK2jHw4RzYvmjay7CX2XD_QUQ9iY/s1600/bou+i+prou+8b+marco.jpg" height="378" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bou I prou - Siurana Pic <span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;">©</span> Pierre Zanone</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"></span><br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">The next days I
climbed “a muerte” every day without saving energies so I got these cool lines:</span><br />
<br />
<ul>
<li><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; text-indent: -18pt;"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; text-indent: -18pt;">3/01
Innuendo 8A flash – Racò de l’espadelles. Thanks to Guido and Gabri for the
beta, who made this possible!</span></li>
<li><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; text-indent: -18pt;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 13.5pt;"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 13.5pt;">3/01 Ser purista a me despist 8A - Cingle de les solanes.</span></span></li>
<li><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; text-indent: -18pt;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 13.5pt;">4/01 Gotim Bru 7B O.S - Balco de l'Ermita.</span></span></li>
<li><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; text-indent: -18pt;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 13.5pt;"><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;">4/01 Mirtoglicerina 7C+ O.S. - Balco de l'Ermita.</span></span></span></li>
<li><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; text-indent: -18pt;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 13.5pt;"><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;"><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;">5/01 Chute emocional 7B+ O.S - Cingle de les solanes.</span></span></span></span></li>
<li><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; text-indent: -18pt;">5/01 Malasombra 7C+ flash – Racò de l’espadelles.</span></li>
<li><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; text-indent: -18pt;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 13.5pt;"><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;"><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 13.5pt;"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt; line-height: normal;"> </span></span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 13.5pt;">5/01 Absolut 8A+ 2<sup>nd</sup> go – El Laboratori.</span></span></span></span></span></li>
<li><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; text-indent: -18pt;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 13.5pt;"><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;"><span style="font-size: 13.5pt;"><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 13.5pt;">5/01 La Bombi 8A+ flash – El Laboratori.</span></span></span></span></span></li>
</ul>
</div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpLast" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYFg8QrKkrutbYUIUn14T96f9ayrHZBZ9cf9_2fOTimnwr8QprB3Rkq1lBrrVwfGswyAA-Jkhg8PjSPOAKf-waIV9UaOZsltM9PwhTCk_VTfrRU-xIlLwU_Fyu84xIwYvsDjYRhT2FY1Q/s1600/7c++margalef.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYFg8QrKkrutbYUIUn14T96f9ayrHZBZ9cf9_2fOTimnwr8QprB3Rkq1lBrrVwfGswyAA-Jkhg8PjSPOAKf-waIV9UaOZsltM9PwhTCk_VTfrRU-xIlLwU_Fyu84xIwYvsDjYRhT2FY1Q/s1600/7c++margalef.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mirtoglicerina - Margalef <span style="text-indent: 0px;"> Pic </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;">©</span><span style="text-indent: 0px;"> </span><span style="text-indent: -18pt;">Pierre Zanone </span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%;">I was very happy
and satisfied about this holiday because ,except for the realizations, I spent a
lot of time with my family and great friends that is the most
important thing.</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%;"><br /></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBgbPkDkBv1eXdpQ37k_HctIuKHb4e8-Hx4AWp4SDSmCm8i9C0AnUVlV8HqrmsCyDqb0g_4FlSJl9J8VyvvoVbSyIedsWQAkUNEreTPEDMKpGfWBMzIgk0Yls1J0Z4ajFuNJslAXK-xQc/s1600/family.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBgbPkDkBv1eXdpQ37k_HctIuKHb4e8-Hx4AWp4SDSmCm8i9C0AnUVlV8HqrmsCyDqb0g_4FlSJl9J8VyvvoVbSyIedsWQAkUNEreTPEDMKpGfWBMzIgk0Yls1J0Z4ajFuNJslAXK-xQc/s1600/family.jpg" height="370" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Family of climbers</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%;">Now I’m working
hard on some winter projects that makes me sycked to go ahead.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 18px; line-height: 20.700000762939453px;">SALUDOS AMIGOS. </span><br />
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11639519853764067150noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3374442532806814768.post-37406452625962418212013-12-24T19:06:00.001+01:002014-01-23T18:56:02.028+01:00Fontainebleau Experience<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Fontainbleau trip
started this summer when Valerio, my brother Andrea, Francesco and I, thought to
a possible trip to the magical forest in November. The time passed too quickly
from that day of summer and in a while I experienced many other adventures.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">About mid-October I
kept in touch with Valerio if the proposal of this summer was still stood so he
said me “Yes, sure”. After this fabulous
response I started sending emails to find a mobile-home to live, and after many
trouble we rented one at the campsite “ Le Parc du Guè” situated in the
Montigny-sur-Liong Village far 15km from Fontainbleau.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">All was ready, so
the early morning of November the 9<sup>th</sup>, Andrea, Francesco and I drove
for 7-8 hours straight to Font, instead Valerio joins us from Rome by plane.
With the satnav was so easy find the campsite so we settled ourself in the mobile-home which was so comfortable.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Day 1 in the
forest:<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">The first day of
bouldering was amazing because we decided to check the most popular and
accessible area situated alongside the N7, Bas Cuvier! When we parked the car
and I saw this land full of boulders, I was stunned. The problems were all a
bit wet so we moves to Cuvier Rempart where I got one of THE BIG FOUR and still
one of my hardest goal of the trip, Big Boss 7c. For the first try seemed to
have no chance to do the gaston moves but then I was able to configure out a
new beta with a right toe-hook on the most right of the line, very useful not
to dab too the big stone behind. So in a
couple of tries I sent it making me sooo happy. </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Wingdings; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-font-family: Verdana; mso-char-type: symbol; mso-hansi-font-family: Verdana; mso-symbol-font-family: Wingdings;">J</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoIfZi1xILwsLwkOcMFdGi0MvB1DEl8-GPHk-nbsEVjACXkcPx720UCOWu1fiQUei-nGzMEjVCNQX6mkYgRktFMrm4WRClbZov6TTXuVxLoVD7WpL3_SR5IeYimnys4Yqb-NEnOaGO7ck/s1600/Big+Boss+7c+Marco.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoIfZi1xILwsLwkOcMFdGi0MvB1DEl8-GPHk-nbsEVjACXkcPx720UCOWu1fiQUei-nGzMEjVCNQX6mkYgRktFMrm4WRClbZov6TTXuVxLoVD7WpL3_SR5IeYimnys4Yqb-NEnOaGO7ck/s640/Big+Boss+7c+Marco.jpg" height="440" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Big Boss Ph. Andrea Zanone</td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Wingdings; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-font-family: Verdana; mso-char-type: symbol; mso-hansi-font-family: Verdana; mso-symbol-font-family: Wingdings;"><br /></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Other must-do sent
of the day:<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri;">-<span style="font-size: 7pt; line-height: normal;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Duroxmanie
6c flash Cuvier Rempart<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri;">-<span style="font-size: 7pt; line-height: normal;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Angle
Allain 5+ flash Cuvier Rempart<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri;">-<span style="font-size: 7pt; line-height: normal;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Cortomaltese
6c+ Bas Cuvier<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri;">-<span style="font-size: 7pt; line-height: normal;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Helicoptere
7a Bas Cuvier<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Day 2: <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">The second day we
went to Isatis another classic sector. It was a quite cold morning so it was
not easy to warm up. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">After the warm up I
climbed a lot of 7a/+ that are among the most beautiful blocks I’ve ever
climbed as:<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri;">-<span style="font-size: 7pt; line-height: normal;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Little
Karma assis 7a+<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri;">-<span style="font-size: 7pt; line-height: normal;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">El
poussah 7a Flash<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri;">-<span style="font-size: 7pt; line-height: normal;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">El
Poussif 7a+<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri;">-<span style="font-size: 7pt; line-height: normal;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Boule
de Nerfs 7a<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<!--[if !supportLists]--><span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-font-family: Calibri; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri;">-<span style="font-size: 7pt; line-height: normal;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Divine
decadence 7b/+<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Day 3:<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">3 days were already
passed so we decided to come back to Bas Cuvier to check other classic. We
warmed up like children because we did a line and not even time to get off, we
got on another line without pad and so on.. for about 30 minutes. </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Wingdings; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-font-family: Verdana; mso-char-type: symbol; mso-hansi-font-family: Verdana; mso-symbol-font-family: Wingdings;">J</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Then we tried
Aerodynamite 7c, a reference point for jump start but easier if you are taller.
My brother did it on his second try so he explained to me the beta. Thanks his
teach I was able to get the dyno and to send it on my first attempt. YEAHH!!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQFqK9eu3J0afGcu7638QjmMd5pysOjZJ_Ichy0pWjbp5MpAXSFAeIsJBcL8QGaf0Kyuckv1v1K8k3A6MJpycgKV4KYAWjV2n3DVZp4XWjisJCfJH0lUR63SYyDcnl-UCux3OAiWV6Wvc/s1600/Aerodinamite+7c+flash+Marco.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQFqK9eu3J0afGcu7638QjmMd5pysOjZJ_Ichy0pWjbp5MpAXSFAeIsJBcL8QGaf0Kyuckv1v1K8k3A6MJpycgKV4KYAWjV2n3DVZp4XWjisJCfJH0lUR63SYyDcnl-UCux3OAiWV6Wvc/s640/Aerodinamite+7c+flash+Marco.jpg" height="412" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Aerodynamite Ph Fra Longhini</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">The day finished as
well because I was able to flash the world’s first 6a, Marie Rose, to flash the
stand part of Carnage and in few attempt to send Carnage assis 7b+! </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Wingdings; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-font-family: Verdana; mso-char-type: symbol; mso-hansi-font-family: Verdana; mso-symbol-font-family: Wingdings;">J</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-0QEu6fkaSvcJu48Kl4Mj3A0mI5d06ZNcRwvPZ-rfevKMdewsNioACXcAEhY3VB63rDTHaUwxM9ukFTvAg9rwpMo0d3oko3xM5eOPTv6EZxpqDTsUrEDK00gtufYIv7gZW3_mQ3Ki9o0/s1600/Carnage+7b%252B+Marco.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-0QEu6fkaSvcJu48Kl4Mj3A0mI5d06ZNcRwvPZ-rfevKMdewsNioACXcAEhY3VB63rDTHaUwxM9ukFTvAg9rwpMo0d3oko3xM5eOPTv6EZxpqDTsUrEDK00gtufYIv7gZW3_mQ3Ki9o0/s640/Carnage+7b%252B+Marco.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Carnage Ph Fra Longhini</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Wingdings; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-font-family: Verdana; mso-char-type: symbol; mso-hansi-font-family: Verdana; mso-symbol-font-family: Wingdings;"><br /></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Day 4:<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">The 4 day of
climbing we went to Franchard Cuisiniére because looked to so beautiful from
the guidebook. It was a relax day for, just climbing what inspired me more.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">The best boulder of
the day was Excalibur 7a+ that contains a legend. This legend talk about a
chosen that is the only one able to get it like King Arthur pulls the sword
from the stone. Today I was the chosen ;)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Even today, the
darkness came early so we left the sector headed home for a delicious dinner.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Day 5:<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">We got up about
eight o'clock, as every morning but we heard from the bed the sound of rain,
which breaks on the roof so we decided to get a rest day and we came back to
sleep again </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Wingdings; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-font-family: Verdana; mso-char-type: symbol; mso-hansi-font-family: Verdana; mso-symbol-font-family: Wingdings;">J</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">At around 12
o’clock we went to the Mc Donald not for a healthy lunch but to take advantage
of the wi-fi which was free.</span><span lang="EN-US"> </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">The rest of the
afternoon we were in search of new sector for us as Elephant, Petit Bois which would
be the next destination. </span><span style="font-family: Wingdings; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%;">J</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Wingdings; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Day 6:<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">As said before we
went at the Elephant sector in the morning where I was able to crush La Barre
fixe 7b/+ in few tries and many other classic. </span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyjTLlzYOnCZlWmiiIKYlH_qera6MqiE9H6ridDJp-idpCs7gHlPF2m_On0JG1xk3gsQcVhEF_KHE57SB9QcYyrBCDLVp9k1ETbcjdF4PjYsoCaf3tw1mJ0W5j5I28jzq5gXM5ufHpp8E/s1600/La+barre+fixe+direct+7b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyjTLlzYOnCZlWmiiIKYlH_qera6MqiE9H6ridDJp-idpCs7gHlPF2m_On0JG1xk3gsQcVhEF_KHE57SB9QcYyrBCDLVp9k1ETbcjdF4PjYsoCaf3tw1mJ0W5j5I28jzq5gXM5ufHpp8E/s640/La+barre+fixe+direct+7b.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">La barre fixed direct Ph Andrea Zanone</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Then we left this one to check
the Cul de Chien sector which is situated in an expanse of white sand which
makes it wonderful. </span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEie6UrtUfJ_mKpRyMZiaMmAK9c9K1mwbybl8EnohUMzNN0j45ncaSSf57AWElw-vrzwbXNpPNYWvh5Z5lwoTFgjMBgbVxZ6_7hBB1nGB8qjs2KU9gGBkbpP_7ZQu4WO3kcqwPRgOdgxQWI/s1600/Cul+de+chien.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEie6UrtUfJ_mKpRyMZiaMmAK9c9K1mwbybl8EnohUMzNN0j45ncaSSf57AWElw-vrzwbXNpPNYWvh5Z5lwoTFgjMBgbVxZ6_7hBB1nGB8qjs2KU9gGBkbpP_7ZQu4WO3kcqwPRgOdgxQWI/s640/Cul+de+chien.jpg" height="364" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cul de Chien beach</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">We went straight below Le Toit du Cul de Chien, I've always
wanted to flash it but unfortunately the hill hook beta didn't suit me so I
fall down. The second attempt I pushed with my left foot on the steep and I did
it! What a pity.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Then we moved
quickly to Eclipse boulder, to the last session of the day, where there are
many cool lines to climbed. Firsty we tried the stand start of Eclipse because
this was the line that inspired me more. From the first attempts seemed
impossible for me, but later after having configured out all moves I was able
to grab the final crimp. Hell Yeah!!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Another cool line
that I climbed was Arabesque, 7b+ just on the right of eclipse. This problem
consists on few moves on big holds in overhang which joins with an hard gaston
move to take a two fingers pocket.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_5ftu9X5IzbwUzDpCqeDHpmFA6wyA6JRnk8tg05MlJIR5qfxYzNImE4YANYe1S_lTqer4YlThm5U6YSp_tGrcNS5-fIz0Vf9QW1auYgqT6uh5kJqjk5Vg-z9-q-F2EwgCA7zP0OUM8qI/s1600/Eclipse+7c+Marco.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_5ftu9X5IzbwUzDpCqeDHpmFA6wyA6JRnk8tg05MlJIR5qfxYzNImE4YANYe1S_lTqer4YlThm5U6YSp_tGrcNS5-fIz0Vf9QW1auYgqT6uh5kJqjk5Vg-z9-q-F2EwgCA7zP0OUM8qI/s640/Eclipse+7c+Marco.jpg" height="416" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Eclipse Ph Andrea Zanone</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Last Day:<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Seemed impossible
but the last day came very quickly. Without skin but with much motivation we
went to Roche aux Sabots, a really cool sector before Cul de Chien! It was the
coldest morning of the trip because there was so much cold wind which made </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Arial","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"></span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">it
difficult to keep warm. After a couple of 7a I tried Salle Gosse for about one
hour, without success, always dropping down to the final dyno.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Just one cliff we
missed to climb so we moved to Petit Bois that was one the sector that inspired
me more because it was not so big but full of must-do. Here I could get three
of the better boulder in Font:<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span lang="EN-US">-<span style="font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">La
Baleine 7a/+ flash.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpMiddle" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span lang="EN-US">-<span style="font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Big
Jim 6c</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpLast" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--><span lang="EN-US">-<span style="font-size: 7pt;">
</span></span><!--[endif]--><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">L’oeuf
7b</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpLast" style="mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">I always saw Big
Jim from the screen but I never thought that it was in Petit bois so when we
checked this sector and I saw it and BIG DRAGON in front of my face I stood
breathless! Majestic wall, a bit scary the last move to the jug.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">L’Oeuf was the
boulder that inspired me more for sure. Squeezed 4 brains to configure out the
beta then it looked possible! Actually this is what climbing means because it
consists in a really technical slab with weird toe/hill hook. EPIC!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilY5P36YxoAPEN0p0IwQb921rTCT84zMXUxnPThEa9WueEKmfNUMi702mM-jCOx9wHVcNh8_i3F5vN-CLDFJj-Anq8UsqT3K6ctyZySXKAhUbnWUF_jPOPa12ZoxqDmJpQNiYGfBQbubE/s1600/L%2527oeuf+7b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilY5P36YxoAPEN0p0IwQb921rTCT84zMXUxnPThEa9WueEKmfNUMi702mM-jCOx9wHVcNh8_i3F5vN-CLDFJj-Anq8UsqT3K6ctyZySXKAhUbnWUF_jPOPa12ZoxqDmJpQNiYGfBQbubE/s640/L%2527oeuf+7b.jpg" height="426" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">L'oeuf Ph Fra Longhini</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">La Baleine is
totally different from the others one, It's amazing overhang with an hard match on a
crimp that allow to get a big pocket.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;">The trip end with very good
attempts on Big Dragon 8a/+, my dream from the first time that I saw on videos.
I was a little bit tired but really happy anyway because so I have an </span><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%;">excuse to go back soon. ;)</span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%;"><br /></span>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11639519853764067150noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3374442532806814768.post-16760138657033428592013-12-10T11:26:00.001+01:002013-12-10T11:27:02.536+01:00The highest point of the season<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">After the
outstanding trip to Kalymnos I would like to tell about my two best goal of the
season. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">The first one was
the last competition of the year but also the most important because it was the
the Italian Boulder Championship at the Nissan Skypass event in Modena. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Just
came back to Kalymnos I had 20 days to prepare this comp, so I started to do
some fingerboard and some boulder sessions on plastic in order to prepare my
mind for the event.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">The qualification
round was hard for me except one problem that was climbable, so I was able to
flash it. Thanks to this flash I was into the final with others 12 guys because
the biggest part of them had flash one problem too. Given this large number of
Finalists, the judge thought to do the final round as the qualification one, or
rather 4 boulders with 4 minutes for each problems.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">The problem of the
final round were so beautiful and well-setted but I was able to flash the first
one and I was so close on the bonus hold of the third one. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">I finished 4<sup>th</sup>
just under the podium but besides the results I was soo happy and so sycked for
next comp season.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">My second goal and
the most important for me, was my hardest realization on rock: Invidia 8b+<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Invidia is an old
route, bolted and open by Alberto Gnerro in 1998, situated in the low part of
Aosta Valley. I'm been many time to this sector so one year ago I decided to
get my first try on it at the end of cool day with friends. The route suites me
perfectly from the first try and I was able to do all singol moves except one.
The route is basically all chipped so the first part is characterized by long
moves on quite good crimps or pockets instead the second part consists in a
really technical slab with weird body position.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGvNyG_1S26tkegRJYgwTuqeepj6ObOwcdr0ScACZb4V1L3t_uJZs-_CWI1d7hByGhP71Y5U6qdgeW17zOomhZ9qcVepO4ZjGipy35sKdOXQIk8YyQ4-iX0WIYfw1xMQq8-FdmgEa_tO8/s1600/IMG_6436.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGvNyG_1S26tkegRJYgwTuqeepj6ObOwcdr0ScACZb4V1L3t_uJZs-_CWI1d7hByGhP71Y5U6qdgeW17zOomhZ9qcVepO4ZjGipy35sKdOXQIk8YyQ4-iX0WIYfw1xMQq8-FdmgEa_tO8/s640/IMG_6436.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Invidia 8b+ Ph. Andrea Zanone</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">About one year later
my first attempt, or about 1 month ago, I decided to check the old project
again in order to understand if it was possible. I got just one tries after
having done a really cool 7c+ called Guidecca and I felt it climbable. I was
super sycked to come back soon to get some attempt from the bottom. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">One morning after
the University lessons My brother and I drove to Donnas with one goal: TRY TO
SEND IT! After the usual warm up I was ready for the first try, I passed the
first crux quite well, the hardest for me and I climbed really fast to reach
the second one. </span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">I felt really good and not so pumped so I was able to do the
slab and to clip the last quickdraw. I shaked a bit the forearm then I started
to climb the last wall that is not so hard taken as singol moves. All went very
well and I clipped the chain screaming glad! :) <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">My first 8b+ is
done in 6 attempts. Could be a next level for me? I HOPE ;)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br />
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Another chapter is
over, Font on the next blog! IEAHHH<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqTs5lTKwZmmQUhLab7Ab-VcpG17JOrrOvXHO2bppn4jexUhXBAA0VatLUBlH10XI22iIrxXtr1E_bFW23MD0Vp6qspxlKL7IsfY4hHzYX81b6ltbExbUFAkgeNXtvwb8-X8NvnAaqJ58/s1600/Invidia+8b%252B+Donnas+%2528ITA%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqTs5lTKwZmmQUhLab7Ab-VcpG17JOrrOvXHO2bppn4jexUhXBAA0VatLUBlH10XI22iIrxXtr1E_bFW23MD0Vp6qspxlKL7IsfY4hHzYX81b6ltbExbUFAkgeNXtvwb8-X8NvnAaqJ58/s640/Invidia+8b%252B+Donnas+%2528ITA%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Invidia 8b+ Ph. Andrea Zanone</td></tr>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11639519853764067150noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3374442532806814768.post-1437959501103191942013-12-09T22:30:00.002+01:002013-12-10T13:42:26.830+01:00Kalymnos in the HEART<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Hi there<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">The warm summer
temperatures are dropping down leaving space to autumn, but for us it is not
yet time of the cold, we are to leave Italy again for a new experience in
southern Greece. Actually we were headed
to the sport climbing paradise, Kalymnos to test if this legend is true.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">We woke up at
3o’clock a.m the morning of October the 1<sup>st</sup> because we had the airplane at 7 o’clock to
left Italy for Kos, Greece. The fly went really well, without complications but when we will to the port in
Mastichari a heavy rainstorm fell on us so we had to wait from 12 o’clock to 6
o’clock at the port because the ferry didn’t leave to Kalymnos. </span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">We were tired and bored to wait but finally we
were able to cross the sea and to reach Kalymnos. Mrs. Poppy was waiting for us
down there, so she took us to the house they had rented.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">The house was situated
on the other side of the Island, where the all sport climbing cliffs were. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4dHMS-qdKnH1lSMyCPcn3yRCZokPo5TcGRNDo1KE6FKLnG8BzHbe5a34LMD8W1JsOUgcaw9Fb8WvxUoRiZs1rGFjbiYNf_Wrm4WgfFStB8NpBX670jQb8o_O3hyphenhyphenvCk97cBvMFplUvnY0/s1600/tramonto+kalymnos.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="332" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4dHMS-qdKnH1lSMyCPcn3yRCZokPo5TcGRNDo1KE6FKLnG8BzHbe5a34LMD8W1JsOUgcaw9Fb8WvxUoRiZs1rGFjbiYNf_Wrm4WgfFStB8NpBX670jQb8o_O3hyphenhyphenvCk97cBvMFplUvnY0/s640/tramonto+kalymnos.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Amazing sunset from the house.</td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">From the first
second that I was in Kalymnos I saw the amazing air you breathed because all
people seemed to be so relax and really available. Each evening that we decided
to eat out for dinner we tried always to
change place and try to eat some specialties. In my opinion Greek food is very
good and different because it varies from excellent fish, delicious vegetables
to special meat skewers actually known as “Souvlaki”. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">As customary we
rented 2 scooter to move from home to the cliffs but also to visit the island
so the rest we went to a special restaurant that I'd like to recommend for very special lunch,
snack or dinner.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">This restaurant is situated in a remote village called
Palionisos in the east coast of Kalymnos so to reach it you have to take the
road to Secret Garden sector but instead of stopping to the car parking you
have to follow the paved road until its ends and follow a dirt road. The house
is on the left after 200 meters. Nicolas is the manager and the only worker of
this little restaurant and it's a whole do man, but actually this is not a real
restaurant but he basically cook in his
kitchen so this is more like a family meal. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTZqnG5YjesBr-qY7iQY5ScrBuqAyDxfIomfBhbUU7q_LN_qkmUO9XWa2iKU94sh1WJYe6KX0vLtzcengEnF6oWLQE_mjamF9SEBuYpcl59aIoG7BAmT0xq_5_-Riffz3ZRXtYgh2GWZY/s1600/A+pranzo+da+Nicolas.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTZqnG5YjesBr-qY7iQY5ScrBuqAyDxfIomfBhbUU7q_LN_qkmUO9XWa2iKU94sh1WJYe6KX0vLtzcengEnF6oWLQE_mjamF9SEBuYpcl59aIoG7BAmT0xq_5_-Riffz3ZRXtYgh2GWZY/s640/A+pranzo+da+Nicolas.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nice lunch to Nicolas.</td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Nicolas work for
many years as a teacher in Kalymnos but he was also a sailor in search of
sponges ,that still sells, so thanks to all these trip he is able to speak many
languages like Italian, English, German. He is a super cooker and every kind of
fish that he cooks was caught by him. Here you can eat very well and cheaply so
I would like to recommend again.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Actually I was not
here in Kalymnos for eating but for climbing,
so I’m going to tell us something about I was able to send in this 10
day trip.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">The climbing here
could be really strange and difficult for those are used to climb on crimps
like me, because the climbing is most powerful and endurance on super
overhanging wall. The rock of Kalymnos is top-quality limestone feature by
pockets, stalactites, tufas and big open hand holds.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">The main feature of
all crags are these big tofas but not all cliffs are on super overhang, it dipends
from Grande Grotta, to Arhi, to Secret Garden, to many others. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiePeO0-33tYPTHpZhVBi1kJC_ycXazZ_tFAVuOalpUoe-SeWHG1CVH7SkGb1puXWe2oFoBH8Qbfu08fSxMYjbC10l9T3NhzqdwduLh0qslNVLK_Ww9KPkmPLGLTVtXjHEv-GjFxsUP3Gw/s1600/Angelika+8a+marco.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiePeO0-33tYPTHpZhVBi1kJC_ycXazZ_tFAVuOalpUoe-SeWHG1CVH7SkGb1puXWe2oFoBH8Qbfu08fSxMYjbC10l9T3NhzqdwduLh0qslNVLK_Ww9KPkmPLGLTVtXjHEv-GjFxsUP3Gw/s640/Angelika+8a+marco.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Angelika 8a Ph. Pierre Zanone</td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">My best goal here
are:<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">-Angelica sector
Arhi; I was sooo close on the onsight attempt, fall at the very last move for
slippery feet! I was really happy anyway :)<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">-Orion 7c+ sector
Odyssey; Old routes or maybe one of the first bolted here. Bouldery routes.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">-Andromeda 7c+,
sector Odyssey; just on the left of Orion that I was able to flash. This is
feature by long single tofa on the second part. Harder than Orion.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">- Neska Polita 7c+,
sector Spartacus; flash it too!! </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Wingdings; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-font-family: Verdana; mso-char-type: symbol; mso-hansi-font-family: Verdana; mso-symbol-font-family: Wingdings;">J</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"> Crimpy boulder
into an amazing 7a+ route.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">- Kaly diva 7c,
sector Secret Garden; ONSIGHT! Nice line.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTdN2KKkWAFyK3ZvNxvhHhrFJR1EokuYXKzYBqgVsK7eqN3szss6m8k_RP_cfZj5DZW0oRZB8Tme0FfH8Q1wG7Q1iqDi89sBoySTLRV_ESC7qmQiXeY1TwkJ7pVb8DnWPqqSn2joofBho/s1600/Orion+7c%252B.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTdN2KKkWAFyK3ZvNxvhHhrFJR1EokuYXKzYBqgVsK7eqN3szss6m8k_RP_cfZj5DZW0oRZB8Tme0FfH8Q1wG7Q1iqDi89sBoySTLRV_ESC7qmQiXeY1TwkJ7pVb8DnWPqqSn2joofBho/s640/Orion+7c%252B.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Orion 7c+ Ph. Pierre Zanone</td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">I climbed many others amazing routes from the 6b to 7b+
but I would like to recommend one of the best and funniest route that I
climbed, it’s called Frapolago on Secret Garden sector that is feature big the
biggest stalactites I’ve ever seen where you can sit down to rest. It seem to
be on a school desk! Ahahah<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitVBgvqW_ew_uCqNzyvVeb523MviLpcxSi_4UrEz8Upt8-Qo1b8PBJIc-giCA6rLlUQVr_kA_w-Mb8eH6omRshvwuI_jPyA-t-1uUyXX4xsuiT6qOnOg4cL2WfpyJ9NjOyYY3xeopmqFc/s1600/telendos.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="372" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitVBgvqW_ew_uCqNzyvVeb523MviLpcxSi_4UrEz8Upt8-Qo1b8PBJIc-giCA6rLlUQVr_kA_w-Mb8eH6omRshvwuI_jPyA-t-1uUyXX4xsuiT6qOnOg4cL2WfpyJ9NjOyYY3xeopmqFc/s640/telendos.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View from the Island, Telendos on the background.</td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Kalymnos is one of
the places that impressed me more and I basically left a part of my heart over
there not just for climbing, but for everything!! </span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Enjoy your time </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Wingdings; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-ascii-font-family: Verdana; mso-char-type: symbol; mso-hansi-font-family: Verdana; mso-symbol-font-family: Wingdings;">J</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Verdana","sans-serif"; font-size: 13.5pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11639519853764067150noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3374442532806814768.post-68113545571692399172013-09-26T16:22:00.000+02:002013-09-26T16:22:16.745+02:00Summer edit part 2<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">The Summer is basically over and I have so much things
to tell you.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">It all began in
mid-July because I kept in touch with a friends of mine from Rome, Valerio,
that I met for the first time in Ceuse two years ago and he said to me that he
was in Biella for few days and then he would go to France for 10 days. I was so
looking forward to see him again after many years, so I planned with my brother
to reach Valerio and Francesco in Briancons.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Tuesday, July 16 we were ready to leave Italy and to
go climbing in France. We wake up early and around 9 o’clock we was at the
campsite of ‘Argentière where the guys were, we emptied the car and pitched the
tent so we were ready for some sport climbing in the Fournel valley, in a super
crag called Rocher des Brumes.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">This one is an unbelievable spot, dipped in nature and
I don’t know why it is poorly attended while being incredible. A big part of
the crag is featured by these smooth overhangs, about 50 degrees, so the
climbing can only be strength and endurance. The others walls are more vertical
with small tufas, pockets and crimps but I decided to try and 8a on the super
overhang wall called Papapuk and I was able to send it on my second attempt.
Nothing better to start the trip!!<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP4donWWZexEGLXQ62kUNqygSywJxrbWdrOH3ud98gpbShHTfasjmFW6Rxyul9r7taxCMnXU_3kHJoj5pEVVMJcTGSFkkDE_oI4ouP1EbjuBLu3H4R8yRj8X0YYrVSMRnC0PkdVPvoO9g/s1600/7b%252B+roche+des+brumes.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="288" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP4donWWZexEGLXQ62kUNqygSywJxrbWdrOH3ud98gpbShHTfasjmFW6Rxyul9r7taxCMnXU_3kHJoj5pEVVMJcTGSFkkDE_oI4ouP1EbjuBLu3H4R8yRj8X0YYrVSMRnC0PkdVPvoO9g/s640/7b%252B+roche+des+brumes.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">7b+ in Roche des Brumes <span style="font-size: 10pt; line-height: 115%;"> </span><span style="font-size: 13pt; line-height: 115%;">© </span>Fra Longhini<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 13.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 13.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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</tbody></table>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">The second day we decided to check out again a new crag for me, Entraygues, known
from a great mass of climbers for the hard routes. When we arrived up there we
had some troubles how to reach the crag, because there was a river but not a
bridge anymore… My brother and Francesco crossed the cold and strong river
water in their underwear but was not so easy for me, I had the camera so I was
afraid to wet it.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 115%;">I decided to find another way so I walked up near the
river in order to get a piece where the water was slower and I find it after a
long research and I could finally reach the crag! :)</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 115%;"> </span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 115%;">After a quick warm up I got a couple of tries on Deltaplane man because
rumors said that this is a bouldery route, therefor my style. At the end of the
day I was able to configure out my beta and I did all single moves so I was
really sycked to come back soon. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">My brother was soo close too and he proposed to me to
come back the day after to finish the project, I couldn’t be much happier!<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">The day after came really quickly and the weather was
not really good but we were too looking forward to not climb; the overhang wall
was basically sheltered from the rain so the climbing was possible and after a
difficult warm up, due to moisture, I did my first try of the day falling in
the middle of the boulder. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">On the second attempt everything went very well and I
was able to climb it, I was really happy for this one and the day finished as
well for Andrea that he sent it too. ;)<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje0KcblV-t2uypoNxGFTFlF316QoXTtIzwCXaocTo8L6s6Dc8gLmph6opnLAuXOw5Gl-BVVc-Z-vn_jfDrwKoX9l-ZVxF1JgpeI3zcEX3nAo2u4g5ga8fvNxC1rPo33gV0D5yp5rMfVOI/s1600/Deltaplane+man+8b+marco.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje0KcblV-t2uypoNxGFTFlF316QoXTtIzwCXaocTo8L6s6Dc8gLmph6opnLAuXOw5Gl-BVVc-Z-vn_jfDrwKoX9l-ZVxF1JgpeI3zcEX3nAo2u4g5ga8fvNxC1rPo33gV0D5yp5rMfVOI/s640/Deltaplane+man+8b+marco.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Deltaplane Man 8b Entraygues <span style="font-size: 13pt; line-height: 115%;">© </span>Fra Longhini <div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 13.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 10.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 13.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">The time here in Briancons was over so we left to
Ceuse for a couple of days and as every year I’m really sycked to touch again that amazing limestone.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">I had a lot of projects in my mind but one in particular,
L’ami de tout le Monde 8b because the year past I was really closed to send it
and I would have liked to climb this majestic rig.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">I did a couple of attempt to retry the 3 boulders
sequences and I felt it feasible, so I try to work it out from the start. The
first real try I fell at the second crux but then I was able to link the second
boulder with the third one and I was anyway really happy.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">I work it for two others days but without got it, I
did the hard part of the route, or rather the
3 boulders but I fall for 4 times in a row at the very last move, to match the big
hole. My forearm were not so pumped just after the third crux but when I suddenly
took the jug my right hand wasn’t not able to stick the jug anymore so I fell
as fucker.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">The line is still over there to be climbed and I can
define it as my nemesis so I had to postpone my next possible ascent to next
year. My “only” goals of the Ceuse trip were the flash of Blanches Fesses 7c in
Cascade sector and the onsight of L'errance d'une passion 7c in Berlin sector.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">About one month later I were ready for another
adventure but during this month spent at home I trained hard and I spent my
free time to climb but to have fun with friends too.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">One day I went in Val di Rhemes with my mum and I was
able to get an 8a+ called Gioiello nell’ Abisso, this one it’s a bit chipped
but it’s funny to climb with a good feet works.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">I didn’t spend
much more time on the rock because I had to prepare the Italian Boulder Cup in
Gressoney, I was not really in shape for a plastic climbing because it’s
totally different from the outdoor climbing, more powerful with a climb more
violent.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">I finished 9<sup>th</sup>
with 2 bonus holds.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">This month has elapsed very quickly so Andrea and I
planned another trip to Briancons for 10 days, always to check new places to
climb in order to do something of new for us.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">The first day we checked a sport climbing cliff in
Ailefroide valley called Face bouc that is one of the most impressive granite
overhang I’ve ever seen. I onsighted a 7a+ for warm up but then it was a day to
forget, it seemed as I had no desire to climb.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzhvRctl-mhoiw6Ff19cQdn4OD3g2wJJbnvxSiINS0lHsMGIilj8qCXXlhJ4Lwlnw3ZXJI4MMM7992G9jV92GraTmZcM_nw9IDWvRLke4kHuqDos-cN_6MQTMo1po5wegWYXUce1vZZAQ/s1600/Cambon+beurre+7a%252B+Face+bouc+%2528FRA%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="438" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzhvRctl-mhoiw6Ff19cQdn4OD3g2wJJbnvxSiINS0lHsMGIilj8qCXXlhJ4Lwlnw3ZXJI4MMM7992G9jV92GraTmZcM_nw9IDWvRLke4kHuqDos-cN_6MQTMo1po5wegWYXUce1vZZAQ/s640/Cambon+beurre+7a%252B+Face+bouc+%2528FRA%2529.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cambon Beurre 7a+ Face bouc <span style="font-size: 17px; line-height: 19px;">© </span>Pierre Zanone <div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 13.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
</td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">The second day we went to Rue des masques and I
realized that I was in a bad shape because I felt all routes really difficult. I did a 7b onsight but when I reached the chain I was really tired, but surely
the condition couldn’t help us because it was very humid. I tried an 8a but
felt it very very far but i was sycked to climb again so I got an onsight attempt on a 7c+
and I fell very high when the wall became more vertical with slippery pockets
or crimps.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Two day was over and I got anything better that pumped
forearm!!!<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">We spent the two days after in an unbelievable cliff
called La Saume, but this was not my first time up there because I check it out
one year before with my brother and David Fault who took us to see it.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">This crag is the best here in Briancons, the friction
for climbing are perfect but I love it more because the place is simply amazing.
There is a green grass such as that the elves, a brook runs through the valley
and all this is really special for me, it gives me happiness.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">My goals here was:<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">-Gazpatcho 7a+ O.s.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 115%;">-</span><span lang="EN-US"> </span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 115%;">Mamelle trophy 7b+ flash<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 115%;">-</span><span lang="EN-US"> </span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 115%;">God Michou 7b+ O.s.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 115%;">- No named 8a+
that I had to spend 2 days of work to crushed it. This one consists in two
boulder problem into a short and intense route that my brother was able to
flash. Well done mann! :)</span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjx8tQbG0oXK7ixIwgik1MpSzAjlrYqcxR8ewCrqvUPNraorFtmcSA_W1sZlgHWBQ5lUgmNf2o9wbMS_bYr6S3dGOUUxBQmtKeXRZTha6EmgM22-AgTAKgyz1eRz5e9BE3D469Bxi0xguY/s1600/God+Michou+7b%252B+O.S.+La+Saume+Ceillac+%2528FRA%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjx8tQbG0oXK7ixIwgik1MpSzAjlrYqcxR8ewCrqvUPNraorFtmcSA_W1sZlgHWBQ5lUgmNf2o9wbMS_bYr6S3dGOUUxBQmtKeXRZTha6EmgM22-AgTAKgyz1eRz5e9BE3D469Bxi0xguY/s640/God+Michou+7b%252B+O.S.+La+Saume+Ceillac+%2528FRA%2529.jpg" width="426" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Good Michou 7b+ La Saume <span style="font-size: 13pt; line-height: 115%;">© </span>Zanone Andrea<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 13.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
</td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 115%;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 115%;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 115%;">About 30 minutes later the ascent I decided to reclimb
it for some photos so I saw around to find a good place to take it. In seeking
this place I sprained my ankle strongly as stupid and I realized that my trip
was basically over. :(</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">The day was still long because I was expecting “a long
journey back” to the car. The following days
my ankle became bigger so I had to rest for rock climbing for at least
one week and later I could again take the first steps on the rock.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">13 days after the accident in La Saume I was able to
send a 7c called Casi Zolu on my second go in Barmasse crag, Valtournenche (AO)
and few days later I got my first sport climbing F.A. in Donnas, the routes was
called Ghiaccio from the bolter Ulde and I proposed a grade of 7c because it
consist in few hard moves on very sharp crimps.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 115%;">In the meantime of these ascents I used this time away
from rock to train hard on moonboard, pan gullich and finger board in order to
be a bit in shape ag</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 115%;">ain.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">My very lasts high points were in Valgrisenche one
week ago, where I was able to crushed on my second go Razor, a super crimpy
crack graded 8a and Input, 3 days ago, 7c+/8a in the lower Aosta valley. I’m
really happy about these ascents because I felt myself in fit again and ready for these 10 day trip
to Kalimnos from October the 1<sup>st</sup>
to October the 10<sup>th</sup>.</span><span style="font-size: 13pt;"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-0SZvFFX4G7UAWijk22qqVQEkEnkqVBq8GYqNUW26b-eIIXPeCOPR1d3JZ0RdE76vUvGh5x110AJgkld8y145BKrjAnG6-0yI7IX4Z2AD_n4NXCB6JjlbV1W1y8pQJ61xej6XLvgmN70/s1600/Casi+Zolu+7c+Barmasse.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="416" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-0SZvFFX4G7UAWijk22qqVQEkEnkqVBq8GYqNUW26b-eIIXPeCOPR1d3JZ0RdE76vUvGh5x110AJgkld8y145BKrjAnG6-0yI7IX4Z2AD_n4NXCB6JjlbV1W1y8pQJ61xej6XLvgmN70/s640/Casi+Zolu+7c+Barmasse.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Casi Zolu 7c Barmasse <span style="font-size: 17px; line-height: 19px;">© </span>Fra Longhini <div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 13.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
</td></tr>
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<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEZ6GaJlUj3eAa0GIMnnr2ObTcDNzM9eHn4XO7eAPy6Q3pWb9G0pzGTOcP2Wl_Nr1bYAo0z8qOZ3Yj3mwYgPsKmkTTAksMzjlA_ZL6rFUWY9op4AL4SihTP18wN3fnXiuA_dV1sqORPl8/s1600/Razor+8a.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEZ6GaJlUj3eAa0GIMnnr2ObTcDNzM9eHn4XO7eAPy6Q3pWb9G0pzGTOcP2Wl_Nr1bYAo0z8qOZ3Yj3mwYgPsKmkTTAksMzjlA_ZL6rFUWY9op4AL4SihTP18wN3fnXiuA_dV1sqORPl8/s640/Razor+8a.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Razor 8a Falesia dell'Obliquo <span style="font-size: 13pt; line-height: 19px;">© </span>Fra Longhini<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 13.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
</td></tr>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11639519853764067150noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3374442532806814768.post-91838697266187169012013-07-25T15:08:00.001+02:002013-07-25T20:29:25.743+02:00Summer edit part 1<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Yes I finished off the high school forever and I’m
finally “MATURE” so I’m getting ready to
have a sick summer. During the exam I can’t climb so much so I used the my free
time to train hard (campusboard,
moonboard, fingerboard) in order to be really in shape when the school
will be truly over. The weekend after the first 3 written tests I went with my
friends Nicky, Pietro and Ivan to an 1700 m high place in Pellice Valley called
Rifugio Barbara. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirmxeIJeYujJMAqcyMQzCiliUR_gkTmnWcldsQaZ9pZhATcXSzQmnrDr6XQfHrPNxO5aWxVHJAjYBxJR3MzcKWDRIdXsVKFpE_tJnTx5wmcfb_4ptqwET1n_plto78RPGzH4DxpStKVYc/s1600/rif+barbara.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" height="378" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirmxeIJeYujJMAqcyMQzCiliUR_gkTmnWcldsQaZ9pZhATcXSzQmnrDr6XQfHrPNxO5aWxVHJAjYBxJR3MzcKWDRIdXsVKFpE_tJnTx5wmcfb_4ptqwET1n_plto78RPGzH4DxpStKVYc/s640/rif+barbara.jpg" title="Rifugio Barbara" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Rifugio Barbara</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">It’s a beautiful bouldering spot where the most of
problems were brushed and firstly climbed by the strong climber Christian Core
but just a little part of them are excellent line with good rock quality. The
projects for us were so many for example Nicky worked in two session Kimera 8c
trying to link all moves and he got some good tries from the start. Pietro and
Ivan sent a 7a just on the left of “Big Mother” that consists in a few moves on
an edge. Pietro was able to get another 7a and he was so close for the direct
line of it graded 7b.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">It was a great day for me too I was able to send an
old project tried the past years in few goes, the name is Fat bastard graded
7c+ so it took me few tries to configure out the beta and then I crushed it.
Nicky and I left to Kimera for his first session so I got a rest and I took the
opportunity to take some picture to my friend. When Nicky finished his first
session I did a cool problem just on the left of Kimera called Punto
Interrogativo (?). <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">The name it’s really appropriate because if you don’t
know the right beta for the first move you don’t up your ass from the ground so
I would like to thanks Nicky for the beta. The grade proposed in the guidebook
was 7c but I felt it easier more like a 7b+.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRaF8iBcGgPxh0pNz5joCXdpNM6286dR5KujvC-cvgq0g5X51A6okqtDm3r3rILd0nnUTPad7VudF81fAFOTEHYCNPMewevMJ8_bvktePBx3wWDQRROUZMGS9ryDYL-uO4sUmOWw9GvRI/s1600/punto+interrogativo+7b%252B.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="416" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgRaF8iBcGgPxh0pNz5joCXdpNM6286dR5KujvC-cvgq0g5X51A6okqtDm3r3rILd0nnUTPad7VudF81fAFOTEHYCNPMewevMJ8_bvktePBx3wWDQRROUZMGS9ryDYL-uO4sUmOWw9GvRI/s640/punto+interrogativo+7b%252B.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Punto Interrogativo 7b+ Ph Pietro Tribuzio</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; line-height: 115%;">I even got 2 boulders called Toporagno 7b and Caffeina
7b+ to complete this funny day.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">4 day later I had the orale exam so after this I can say
that school is definitely end and I can planned many trips around Europe. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">The first one was in Magic Wood with my friend Andrea
Perna from the July the 8<sup>th</sup> to July the 10<sup>th</sup> and this was
a strange trip because the forecast didn’t looks good so we changed planned
many times but at the end we decided to leave to Magic the same because we were
really psyched to climbed upthere.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; line-height: 115%;">The first day was pretty good for Andrea
that flashed two 7a but not enough for me because I fell off at the very last
move of Octopussy 8a reaching the jug, because I was really tired and exhausted.
Two hours earlier I sent classic, Blindfish 7b, that is, as the most of problems
here, pretty soft.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; line-height: 115%;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; line-height: 115%;">The day after I was so sycked to crush Octopussy and
after a quick warm-up a good friction came so after a revision of
all moves I did it on my second go of the day!</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">In my opinion it is a great boulder with different
style of climbing body-tension, toe/hill hook, fingery crimps so I’m really
happy for this ascent and thank you to Andrea that supported me.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivpFlUtQYkwp0B0CeTj0uRqb5PIPB27dW83Sjzf1Y9aDaWdamLgRxBwasQu7p4esGaMiBB3Ca2ShgTN6qZst7Gwb0K-3mpwRdubFVHTkhvJ884yr_LpvSLiZK9YLXiAq5Dx-Cq6R4_1Ec/s1600/octopussy+8a+Magic+Wood+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="442" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEivpFlUtQYkwp0B0CeTj0uRqb5PIPB27dW83Sjzf1Y9aDaWdamLgRxBwasQu7p4esGaMiBB3Ca2ShgTN6qZst7Gwb0K-3mpwRdubFVHTkhvJ884yr_LpvSLiZK9YLXiAq5Dx-Cq6R4_1Ec/s640/octopussy+8a+Magic+Wood+1.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Octopussy 8a Ph Andrea Perna</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Then we moved to Kolienmoster that is a long travers on fucking slopy holds with continuous left hill hook. After having configure out
the beta I got many tries without chance, my feet slipped or my hands where
without chalck. I rest about 10 minutes and then I crushed it without make any mistake but at the end I was really pumped and the skin of my forearms were destroyed</span></span><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; line-height: 115%;">. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; line-height: 115%;">Around 4 o’clock we reached the “Sasso Bruno” where Andrea tried a classic here, Supernova
instead I tried Du côté de Seshuan a crazy 7c+ starting near supernova and
finishing with an outstanding dyno to a jug. It was my last boulder of the day and I was pretty tired so I decided to put off until tomorrow
morning.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">The 3<sup>rd</sup> day or rather the last one was a
great day too, after a rainy night the sun came and dried up the Magic Forest
so we were ready.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">We got warm and </span></span><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">with the patience of Andrea</span></span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"> we went to take the video of Octopussy because the uncut one </span></span><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">had magically disappeared from my camera. T</span><span style="line-height: 18px;">ime passed quickly</span><span style="line-height: 18px;"> </span></span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"> so after that we reached a
cool arête called Abraxas that was a ticklist project of Andrea. We dried the left side pull so I send it so
quickly and I proposed the 7a+ grade </span></span><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span style="line-height: 18px;">rather than that of the guide (7b+)</span></span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">. Andrea did all single moves expect one and it
took a bit more wor</span></span><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; line-height: 115%;">k to do it and when he started to try the whole line he crushed it in a couple of attempts.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; line-height: 115%;">About 2 o’clock we came back to Sasso Bruno for our
last session of boulder so I was really focus on Du coté de Seshuan but in the
first attempts I seemed to have no chance. I had no more skin and my hands were
sweating so I decided to relax a bit and to put my hands into the river to cool
them. When I was ready we moved the pads under the line again and with
the cold hands I felt really closed so in few tries I sent it. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 115%;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 115%;">It was very late
but I would like to still try the first part of the never ending story because
the first 2 days a f****r wet the whole line (I don’t know the reason) so I wasn’t
able to try it before. This time was fortunately dry and in 30 minutes I configured
out my beta but I was too tried to get some serious attempts. It’s a project
for the next trip!! :)</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 115%;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; line-height: 115%;">When I came back
home I forced myself to rest 2 days to catch up on some skin but I just one day
without climbing was too so a friends of mine ask me to go climbing so I thought:
why not?<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; line-height: 115%;">We went in crag
that just one routes left me so I was ready to crushed it in order to not come
back anymore. I was able to get it on my second try but even if I climbed a
little my skin was destroyed again! AHAHAH<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; line-height: 115%;">Just 2 days before
the France trip with my brother I went with my family to one of the most impressive
sport climbing place ever. The crag is not so big but there is an amazing rock
quality feature of this place, horizontal crag and technical climbing, with
routes from the 6a to 8b and one more still be climbed (8c or more for sure).
My project was the 8b, called El Tigre, opened by Iker Pou and repeated by Adam Ondra that develops
in an a fantastic overhang where there is the hard section to end up with 7a+
routes.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; line-height: 115%;">I crushed it on my
second go with the support of my friends and I didn’t believe to do it in two
goes. I thought that it isn’t an honest 8b but could be this grade for climbers
shorter than me. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiU30HrsvvIpwKRxe617sP-m5Lmbvb_tjMLtrSIsZA9yoK-p2KBC9h7mlri1izBunfWIxBsamvsZ019UhrlVPjS2SJZwMQsjJpyWXmieH26OfV05TVntJSh41lY7WIYy6hOkHc0VlxXIm0/s1600/el+tigre+8b.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiU30HrsvvIpwKRxe617sP-m5Lmbvb_tjMLtrSIsZA9yoK-p2KBC9h7mlri1izBunfWIxBsamvsZ019UhrlVPjS2SJZwMQsjJpyWXmieH26OfV05TVntJSh41lY7WIYy6hOkHc0VlxXIm0/s640/el+tigre+8b.jpg" width="470" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">El Tigre 8B Chesod Ph Pietro Tribuzio</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; line-height: 115%;">This is a little
taste of my summer. I still waiting for 2 months! SI <o:p></o:p></span><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; line-height: 115%;">SEÑOR</span><br />
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-size: 12.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11639519853764067150noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3374442532806814768.post-37086574857408036062013-07-05T15:14:00.001+02:002013-07-05T18:14:01.889+02:00Last competitions before Summer<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; line-height: 19px;">It’s already too long since I last wrote here, but the state exam has arrived and I had to leave for a while climbing. </span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; line-height: 19px;">About 1 month ago I had my last young Italian championship in Arco, I trained hard all winter to finish off this experience in the best way. I felt really in shape and I was so sycked to climb; the first of 2 days of competition there was lead specialty, I had a fun qualification round with my friends and I was able to be in finals as 5<sup>th</sup> with a good performance on the 2<sup>nd</sup> routes.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; line-height: 19px;">At 4pm the isolation zone closed and about 1h an half later the judge presented all the finalists in order of category from the young one to the old one, (u16,u18,u20) then we had two minutes to view the route and try to understand the right sequence. </span><br />
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; line-height: 19px;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 19px;">The isolation was external but my time came and after having reviewed the sequence thought I started to climb really fast because I was tired and my arm getting pumped in a second! :)</span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; line-height: 19px;">I finished my comp as 6<sup>th</sup> and I was really proud of me.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgu_sBwVT-JPYkA39-ImDsZdVFcK-FVt_MXVo05fn7yB3cSkvvkYTZ7Ugq_aRGg5_aVeX97CW-y9YAcLbrSYmOl32I6ncmhyhNDn-BPBNN5cDPUVr4rkndTGE9os6Skg29rm2awK2kzVDs/s1600/lead+arco.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="368" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgu_sBwVT-JPYkA39-ImDsZdVFcK-FVt_MXVo05fn7yB3cSkvvkYTZ7Ugq_aRGg5_aVeX97CW-y9YAcLbrSYmOl32I6ncmhyhNDn-BPBNN5cDPUVr4rkndTGE9os6Skg29rm2awK2kzVDs/s640/lead+arco.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Young italian championship in Arco Ph <b style="background-color: white; font-family: sans-serif; line-height: 19.1875px; text-align: start;">©</b> Pierre Zanone</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; line-height: 19px;">The day after there was boulder specialty, I woke up early in order to have the time to have breakfast and to warm up. The qualification round started at 11 am, the 7 boulders looked really fun and beautiful, I was able to flash 4 of them and I make 2 others problem, just one left me in order to be sure to be in final but unfortunately it was my anti-style or maybe I was not enough strong to get it so I was unable to do it.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; line-height: 19px;">I had to do nothing else that wait the ranking but the tension increased, after an hour the judge hanged the ranking so I saw that I was the first climber excluded from the final.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 19px;">I was really sad and disappointed because</span><span lang="EN-US"> </span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 19px;">I would like to show how much I'm worth it really and because this was my last possibility to make a final with climbers/friends old as me or one year younger.<o:p></o:p></span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 19px;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 19px;">Over to the results of 2 days I had a really great time with friends in Arco that I will remember forever! :)</span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; line-height: 19px;">The next Friday there was the first amateur competition in Biella, the boulder setter was Alberto Gnerro and the organizes were The MOVING and Runout climbing school. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; line-height: 19px;">I had a fun qualification so I finished 1<sup>st</sup> as my brother Andrea. All of my friends that had already finished the comp started to eat sandwich or something similar which looked so delicious so I was really tempted but I wanted to wait the end of the final.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; line-height: 19px;">There was just one problem for the final and every athletes had three tries in 3 round, the last of the ranking (the 5<sup>th</sup> in this case) started as the first and so on. </span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Competition in Chiavazza Ph <span style="color: #333333;"><span style="line-height: 17.984375px;"> </span></span><b style="background-color: white; font-family: sans-serif; line-height: 19.1875px; text-align: start;">© </b>Matteo Zin</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; line-height: 19px;">After the view of the line the final started but nobody reached the top of the problem but I had the best performance and fall off to stick the TOP!</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; line-height: 19px;">The evening finished as well with the teaching of Marzio Nardi who spoke about his climbing life and about the passion that unites us: CLIMBING!<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 19px;">Timely as every year here that the Italian Cup in Ivrea came and for me it was a possibility to stop studying for a day in order to rest a bit my mind. We woke up early to go to the gym in Pollone to warm up a little and</span><span style="line-height: 19px;"> a</span><span style="line-height: 19px;">s every years</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 19px;"> there was a balloon launch and I took some picturs.</span></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzSYvPHbpkmndQu66PW01-_gbgFflORkmSgcaO7K0YjBnL_bhnyI6sraBu95HF11Tax9Q_Jq6AgkMXux3ZY4Af_JANQtCiKQR1hB_EVltOqFK-3ITYXQ-LEYuxbjIQUKQogXKqdY7oUrM/s1600/Mongolfier+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="406" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzSYvPHbpkmndQu66PW01-_gbgFflORkmSgcaO7K0YjBnL_bhnyI6sraBu95HF11Tax9Q_Jq6AgkMXux3ZY4Af_JANQtCiKQR1hB_EVltOqFK-3ITYXQ-LEYuxbjIQUKQogXKqdY7oUrM/s640/Mongolfier+2.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 19px;">The isolation zone was not so comfortable expecially the </span><span style="line-height: 19px;">warm up area</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 19px;"> but luckly I was already a bit preheated.</span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 19px;">Rumors say that the 4 problems of the qual. round </span><span lang="EN-US"> </span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 19px;">were pretty hard and </span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 19px;">I had to wait for more than 3 hours to confirm if this was true.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 19px;">I was really sicked to do a great qualification but I earlier understood that this can’t become true. The rumors were true so the problems were really hard but the sun, the</span><span lang="EN-US"> </span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 19px;">humidity don’t help us so 24 athletes had “il giro della morte” or rather we weren’t able to stick a bonus hold or a Top so our score was equal to 0. My worth comp ever!</span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; line-height: 19px;">Fortunately the competition are over for a while so it’s time to have good climbing days with friends around Europe!</span></div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11639519853764067150noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3374442532806814768.post-75168396783962667202013-05-15T14:38:00.002+02:002013-07-05T15:26:22.180+02:00Road trip to France<br />
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span style="line-height: 115%;">My family and I planned a little trip to Saint Leger
du Ventoux, located in the south-east of France trying to escape from the bad
weather that covered </span><span style="line-height: 115%;">Italy. The
forecasts for the first 2 days were unstable but for the other 2 days seemed
good. </span></span><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; line-height: 115%;">Reasons enough to
even try to get good conditions.</span><br />
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<span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">DAY 1<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">We left Italy the early morning of May the 1<sup>st</sup>
and after 5 hours trip long we arrived
in Montbrun les Bains, so we went to see the house we had rented. It’s so
comfortable, big enough for 4 people, located into a huge lawn, with an outdoor
swimming pool, and so we decided to empty the stuff from the car and to have a
good lunch.</span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">My brother and I were so sycked to climb since the weather was so
good, we went up the car in direction St Leger but the crags were all wet so we
moved to see a new climbing area for us called Malaucène that looked amazing
from the guidebook photos. Luckily some
routes was dry so we started climbing. The warm up was so funny because it was
our first time on this type of rock and therefor the climb was totally new.</span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Around half past 7 I started to try one of the two project of the trip, the
route is called <b>Le Zoulou Blanc </b>and
it is about 20 meters high, graded 8a+/b on the guidebook. It’s an
amazing line, probably one of the best I’ve ever done, on a super compact
limestone with perfect pockets. I was really hopeful to send it.</span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOaoswMc0gZEVVT0afRQO58HDA0kntw4T3jNcs8a-pmok_5yjBdQWay2ya3MKyJsOSIhYEIkmz6v03jaPjEUGRHNWw-OZ7AZrTBG_2_7lxpMr8J1x-QEhr8eD-tlihKmZKii6j7iPgI7A/s1600/sorgente.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="356" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOaoswMc0gZEVVT0afRQO58HDA0kntw4T3jNcs8a-pmok_5yjBdQWay2ya3MKyJsOSIhYEIkmz6v03jaPjEUGRHNWw-OZ7AZrTBG_2_7lxpMr8J1x-QEhr8eD-tlihKmZKii6j7iPgI7A/s640/sorgente.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Water source, Malaucène.</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">DAY 2<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">The second day of climbing I return back so excited to
climb the project but unfortunately the crux holds were wet, so we moved to St
Leger to search a new project. Almost all sectors were still wet but our ticklist project was
dry (except the feet start), the route is called <b>Spit Bull</b> graded 8a+/8b too, but I felt it more like an 8b (harder
than any others routes I’ve ever done), not comparable to the other project in
Malaucène instead they have the same grade.</span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">It’s a short route ,about 15 meters, without hands
rest. Thus being preheated Andrea did one try to put on the quickdraws and to
figure out the beta. </span></span><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; line-height: 115%;">My time came and
while I was climbing, he explained to me the movements, but two sequence were
so hard to link when you try the whole line from the start, so I found an
easier beta for these two "cruxes". Unfortunatelly the second day was
already over !</span><br />
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<span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">DAY 3<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Third one came and we went to St Leger because we wanted
that Le Zoulou Blanc was completely dry
in order to make some good tries. To finish the warm up I decided to climb something of new, so I found
an amazing route bolted between 2 slopy
tufas, 2 meters distant called <b>Jamais
deux sans trois </b>graded 7a+ but it
looked harder. The bolting was very long and I was scared but I could
not pull back so I started climbing and when I reached the chain my legs were
more pumped than my arms. AHAH SO HILARIUOS ! :)</span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoddBqz1TjUR2yfl6se0a2O1UKzYPoTQpQAF6okbmQZCtXsjvrOM6BdLxHV_OKyrjlA5Z5gnJexoufJ3VZjchb-qzWxo6htJAq1ILjRDKLd0P4kS9LMkr9Eo_5DIRkVV2Lt8i_ES5JS9k/s1600/7a%252B.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="428" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoddBqz1TjUR2yfl6se0a2O1UKzYPoTQpQAF6okbmQZCtXsjvrOM6BdLxHV_OKyrjlA5Z5gnJexoufJ3VZjchb-qzWxo6htJAq1ILjRDKLd0P4kS9LMkr9Eo_5DIRkVV2Lt8i_ES5JS9k/s640/7a%252B.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Jamais deux sans trois 7a+ St Leger ph Pierre Zanone</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Then I made my first go on the 8b and I fell down 2
holds before the jug. The second go was so similar but this time I feel down
just one hold before the jug. DAMN !<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 115%;">I wasn't sure whether to make one more attempt because
I was tired, but my father encouraged me and I decided to do another one. The
wind started and the conditions become better and in a second I found myself at
the final step but this time I stick the jug.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 115%;"> The Project 2 was completed !<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7u-E88KRF4UIrAXTsfUnPVuGsc1iMEOTl1xv6LKS7pwxlGKzKqTNm1ox-75muZ2W5-ga9HOpjTGSNlK4L0R-9nLtRWe7zC8Mg6CAejt6o5xHu1sJJ0R4Cvfm8aoEqe6zK1XgpkgEqOFE/s1600/Spit+bull+8b+St+Leger+%25282%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="422" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7u-E88KRF4UIrAXTsfUnPVuGsc1iMEOTl1xv6LKS7pwxlGKzKqTNm1ox-75muZ2W5-ga9HOpjTGSNlK4L0R-9nLtRWe7zC8Mg6CAejt6o5xHu1sJJ0R4Cvfm8aoEqe6zK1XgpkgEqOFE/s640/Spit+bull+8b+St+Leger+%25282%2529.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Spitt Bull 8a+/b , St Leger. Ph Andrea Zanone</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">DAY 4 – LAST DAY<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 115%;">The day after we went to Malaucène again, hoping that
the project 1 was dry. We reached the crag and luckily the routes was almost all
dry so after a good warm up I had my first attempt of the day but I fell down
at the first crux because one pocket was wet. I dried up the pocket and I made
my second attempt and after a strong struggle a reached a good hand rest, the
hardest part was over, I just had to overcome one more step on an amazing one
finger pocket and the game was done. Luckily my finger don’t betrayed me and I
climbed this project too.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 115%;"> Vengaaa ! <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJ3Q-Dbvq34n5j-8wBT8_l9uI3SDIjvAHjSRnDEg-Dmh-mnyHv4h0G3FqaWf3u6LA20_o_gQ8azNxk3i_UX7IVouN7G9fPtFh9AMtdNqy1ZOfB54UlKCcgDUfaePl7pp_20W2fPbPACN4/s1600/Le+zoulou+blanc+8a%252B+malauc%25C3%25A8ne.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="420" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJ3Q-Dbvq34n5j-8wBT8_l9uI3SDIjvAHjSRnDEg-Dmh-mnyHv4h0G3FqaWf3u6LA20_o_gQ8azNxk3i_UX7IVouN7G9fPtFh9AMtdNqy1ZOfB54UlKCcgDUfaePl7pp_20W2fPbPACN4/s640/Le+zoulou+blanc+8a%252B+malauc%25C3%25A8ne.jpg" width="640" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Le Zoulou Blanc 8a+, Malaucène. Ph Pierre Zanone</span></td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">After a good lunch I remade the 8a+ into pieces for
the video and for some photos, so I would like to make a huge thanks to my
Father, my brother and my Mother because they have made this possible.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">NOW I’M READY FOR ANOTHER ADVENTURE! </span></span><span style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">WE’LL SEE WHAT IT
WILL BE!</span></span><br />
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<span style="line-height: 18px;"><span style="font-family: Verdana, sans-serif;">Here there is the video about this TRIP : <a href="https://vimeo.com/66152058">https://vimeo.com/66152058</a> </span></span></div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11639519853764067150noreply@blogger.com1