Friday, July 5, 2013

Last competitions before Summer

It’s already too long since I last wrote here, but the state exam has arrived and I had to leave for a while climbing. 
About 1 month ago I had my last young Italian championship in Arco, I trained hard all winter to finish off this experience in the best way. I felt really in shape and I was so sycked to climb; the first of 2 days of competition there was lead specialty, I had a fun qualification round with my friends and I was able to be in finals as 5th with a good performance on the 2nd routes.

At 4pm the isolation zone closed and about 1h an half later the judge presented all the finalists in order of category from the young one to the old one, (u16,u18,u20) then we had two minutes to view the route and try to understand the right sequence. 

The isolation was external but my time came and after having reviewed the sequence thought I started to climb really fast because I was tired and my arm getting pumped in a second! :)
I finished my comp as 6th and I was really proud of me.

Young italian championship in Arco Ph  © Pierre Zanone

The day after there was boulder specialty, I woke up early in order to have the time to have breakfast and to warm up. The qualification round started at 11 am, the 7 boulders looked really fun and beautiful, I was able to flash 4 of them and I  make 2 others problem, just one left me in order to be sure to be in final but unfortunately it was my anti-style or maybe I was not enough strong to get it so I was unable to do it.
I had to do nothing else that wait the ranking but the tension increased, after an hour the judge hanged the ranking so I saw that I was the first climber excluded from the final.
I was really sad and disappointed because I would like to show how much I'm worth it really and because this was my last possibility to make a final with climbers/friends old as me or one year younger.

Over to the results of 2 days I had a really great time with friends in Arco that I will remember forever! :)

The next Friday there was the first amateur competition in Biella, the boulder setter was Alberto Gnerro and the organizes were The MOVING and Runout climbing school. 
I had a fun qualification so I finished 1st as my brother Andrea. All of my friends that had already finished the comp started to eat sandwich or something similar which looked so delicious so I was really tempted  but I wanted to wait the end of the final.
There was just one problem for the final and every athletes had three tries in 3 round, the last of the ranking (the 5th in this case) started as the first and so on. 

Competition in Chiavazza  Ph  © Matteo Zin
After the view of the line the final started but nobody reached the top of the problem but I had the best performance and fall off to stick the TOP!

The evening finished as well with the teaching of Marzio Nardi who spoke about his climbing life and about the passion that unites us: CLIMBING!

Timely as every year here that the Italian Cup in Ivrea came and for me it was a possibility to stop studying for a day in order to rest a bit my mind. We woke up early to go to the gym in Pollone to warm up a little and as every years there was a balloon launch and I took some picturs.

The isolation zone was not so comfortable expecially the warm up area but luckly I was already a bit preheated.

Rumors say that the 4 problems of the qual. round  were pretty hard and I had to wait for more than 3 hours to confirm if this was true.
I was really sicked to do a great qualification but I earlier understood that this can’t become true. The rumors were true so the problems were really hard but the sun, the humidity don’t help us so 24 athletes had  “il giro della morte” or rather we weren’t able to stick a bonus hold or a Top so our score was equal to 0. My worth comp ever!

Fortunately the competition are over for a while so it’s time to have good climbing days with friends around Europe!

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