Thursday, January 30, 2014

Global Warming

The global warming adventure started when I was in Spain and one evening  I spoke with my brother, Luca Bazooka and Gabri about this boulder and each of us was so motivated to try it so we planned a mission to checked the line all togethere.

Global Warming is an outstanding line ,that runs through a roof for 12 movements  with amazing feet works and toe hooks, opened by Niccolò Ceria about one year ago.

We gave the appointment Sunday, January  12  at the cafè in Quincinetto for a coffee so getting ready for the hiking till the first boulders, where my brother and I, warmed up.
Gabri , Bazoo and others friends went to the back side of the area where there are some cool lines to climbed joined us after lunch. In the meantime I climbed an amazing line feature by a small 2 fingers pocket opened by Alberto Gnerro but still unnamed.
After ascended the 7b+ I felt warm and ready to check the roof, so we walked for 10 minutes more, finally reaching this fabulous plateau featured by some other interesting blocks including Global Warming.
Unamed 7b+ Pic Andrea Zanone

I had lunch, resting a bit from the tiring walk, so in the meantime the rest of the crew arrived, we were ready to test it!
Actually this was not my first sesh on the boulder because Andrea and I decided to dust off the block the day before, so we took the opportunity to try some singles moves out of curiosity.

I was really happy about my second session because I was able to configured out all single moves except the hardest one, the swing. I wasn't strong enough to control the swing, dabbing every time the crashpad. Gabri and Andrea were able to do this tension move giving to me the motivation to came back stronger! J
The bad weather came so we had to stop trying this rig for about 2 weeks but I took advantage of this period to train specifically doing weights, abdominal and fingers board. I started to feel better, the weather conditions came back good and we were waiting amazing sunny days to be spent on the proj.

I kept in touch with Bazo and Gabri again planning another session all togethere, in order to try to take this rebus down. Gabri was able to send it in a couple of tries, after having warm up doing the finals movement of the lines. Andrea did it too surprising everyone, because he started climbing without saying anything to anyone, when I turned my head he was about to jump and in a second he was able to stick the swing and complete his first 8b boulder problem.
It was a really good day for Bazo and me as well because we were able to keep the swing and make some good tries from the bottom.
I was closer and closer but at one point I was too tired to have any chance so I decided to postpone to another session before the bad weather hits us again.

This day was yesterday, Tuesday, January 29, that I went to Donnas with my brother Andrea and Valentina with just one mission “try to send the project”. The climbing condition was super, it was really windy and quite cold, so I would have no excuse if I was not able to climb it. At about 1 o’clock we were under the roof so I begins to gain confidence in the most climbable part so much that I could hold the swing again, making me so hopeful.

After few tries from the ground I was able to get the hardest move and in a second I found myself after the mantle. It took a few seconds before I realized that  I did it and then I looked at my hands and I saw that I had a gash on his finger.

Global Warming - Pic Andrea Zanone

I will not believe, the blood was pouring, but everybody know that “NO PAIN, NO GAIN”, so I was really satisfied.
This was one of the greatest experience of my climbing life because try a line with some other strong climbers is sooo much motivating, configure the beta all togethere is amazing, you can feel much stronger than you're and these little things, all together, make the difference! :)

Global Warming 8B from Marco Zanone on Vimeo.

Unamed 7b+ in Donnas (AO) from Marco Zanone on Vimeo.

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