Yes I finished off the high school forever and I’m
finally “MATURE” so I’m getting ready to
have a sick summer. During the exam I can’t climb so much so I used the my free
time to train hard (campusboard,
moonboard, fingerboard) in order to be really in shape when the school
will be truly over. The weekend after the first 3 written tests I went with my
friends Nicky, Pietro and Ivan to an 1700 m high place in Pellice Valley called
Rifugio Barbara.
 |
| Rifugio Barbara |
It’s a beautiful bouldering spot where the most of
problems were brushed and firstly climbed by the strong climber Christian Core
but just a little part of them are excellent line with good rock quality. The
projects for us were so many for example Nicky worked in two session Kimera 8c
trying to link all moves and he got some good tries from the start. Pietro and
Ivan sent a 7a just on the left of “Big Mother” that consists in a few moves on
an edge. Pietro was able to get another 7a and he was so close for the direct
line of it graded 7b.
It was a great day for me too I was able to send an
old project tried the past years in few goes, the name is Fat bastard graded
7c+ so it took me few tries to configure out the beta and then I crushed it.
Nicky and I left to Kimera for his first session so I got a rest and I took the
opportunity to take some picture to my friend. When Nicky finished his first
session I did a cool problem just on the left of Kimera called Punto
Interrogativo (?).
The name it’s really appropriate because if you don’t
know the right beta for the first move you don’t up your ass from the ground so
I would like to thanks Nicky for the beta. The grade proposed in the guidebook
was 7c but I felt it easier more like a 7b+.
 |
| Punto Interrogativo 7b+ Ph Pietro Tribuzio |
I even got 2 boulders called Toporagno 7b and Caffeina
7b+ to complete this funny day.
4 day later I had the orale exam so after this I can say
that school is definitely end and I can planned many trips around Europe.
The first one was in Magic Wood with my friend Andrea
Perna from the July the 8th to July the 10th and this was
a strange trip because the forecast didn’t looks good so we changed planned
many times but at the end we decided to leave to Magic the same because we were
really psyched to climbed upthere.
The first day was pretty good for Andrea
that flashed two 7a but not enough for me because I fell off at the very last
move of Octopussy 8a reaching the jug, because I was really tired and exhausted.
Two hours earlier I sent classic, Blindfish 7b, that is, as the most of problems
here, pretty soft.
The day after I was so sycked to crush Octopussy and after a quick warm-up a good friction came so after a revision of all moves I did it on my second go of the day!
In my opinion it is a great boulder with different
style of climbing body-tension, toe/hill hook, fingery crimps so I’m really
happy for this ascent and thank you to Andrea that supported me.
 |
| Octopussy 8a Ph Andrea Perna |
Then we moved to Kolienmoster that is a long travers on fucking slopy holds with continuous left hill hook. After having configure out
the beta I got many tries without chance, my feet slipped or my hands where
without chalck. I rest about 10 minutes and then I crushed it without make any mistake but at the end I was really pumped and the skin of my forearms were destroyed.
Around 4 o’clock we reached the “Sasso Bruno” where Andrea tried a classic here, Supernova
instead I tried Du côté de Seshuan a crazy 7c+ starting near supernova and
finishing with an outstanding dyno to a jug. It was my last boulder of the day and I was pretty tired so I decided to put off until tomorrow
morning.
The 3rd day or rather the last one was a
great day too, after a rainy night the sun came and dried up the Magic Forest
so we were ready.
We got warm and with the patience of Andrea we went to take the video of Octopussy because the uncut one had magically disappeared from my camera. Time passed quickly so after that we reached a
cool arête called Abraxas that was a ticklist project of Andrea. We dried the left side pull so I send it so
quickly and I proposed the 7a+ grade rather than that of the guide (7b+). Andrea did all single moves expect one and it
took a bit more work to do it and when he started to try the whole line he crushed it in a couple of attempts.
About 2 o’clock we came back to Sasso Bruno for our
last session of boulder so I was really focus on Du coté de Seshuan but in the
first attempts I seemed to have no chance. I had no more skin and my hands were
sweating so I decided to relax a bit and to put my hands into the river to cool
them. When I was ready we moved the pads under the line again and with
the cold hands I felt really closed so in few tries I sent it.
It was very late
but I would like to still try the first part of the never ending story because
the first 2 days a f****r wet the whole line (I don’t know the reason) so I wasn’t
able to try it before. This time was fortunately dry and in 30 minutes I configured
out my beta but I was too tried to get some serious attempts. It’s a project
for the next trip!! :)
When I came back
home I forced myself to rest 2 days to catch up on some skin but I just one day
without climbing was too so a friends of mine ask me to go climbing so I thought:
why not?
We went in crag
that just one routes left me so I was ready to crushed it in order to not come
back anymore. I was able to get it on my second try but even if I climbed a
little my skin was destroyed again! AHAHAH
Just 2 days before
the France trip with my brother I went with my family to one of the most impressive
sport climbing place ever. The crag is not so big but there is an amazing rock
quality feature of this place, horizontal crag and technical climbing, with
routes from the 6a to 8b and one more still be climbed (8c or more for sure).
My project was the 8b, called El Tigre, opened by Iker Pou and repeated by Adam Ondra that develops
in an a fantastic overhang where there is the hard section to end up with 7a+
routes.
I crushed it on my
second go with the support of my friends and I didn’t believe to do it in two
goes. I thought that it isn’t an honest 8b but could be this grade for climbers
shorter than me.
 |
| El Tigre 8B Chesod Ph Pietro Tribuzio |
This is a little
taste of my summer. I still waiting for 2 months! SI
No comments:
Post a Comment