After the
outstanding trip to Kalymnos I would like to tell about my two best goal of the
season.
The first one was
the last competition of the year but also the most important because it was the
the Italian Boulder Championship at the Nissan Skypass event in Modena.
Just
came back to Kalymnos I had 20 days to prepare this comp, so I started to do
some fingerboard and some boulder sessions on plastic in order to prepare my
mind for the event.
The qualification
round was hard for me except one problem that was climbable, so I was able to
flash it. Thanks to this flash I was into the final with others 12 guys because
the biggest part of them had flash one problem too. Given this large number of
Finalists, the judge thought to do the final round as the qualification one, or
rather 4 boulders with 4 minutes for each problems.
The problem of the
final round were so beautiful and well-setted but I was able to flash the first
one and I was so close on the bonus hold of the third one.
I finished 4th
just under the podium but besides the results I was soo happy and so sycked for
next comp season.
My second goal and
the most important for me, was my hardest realization on rock: Invidia 8b+
Invidia is an old
route, bolted and open by Alberto Gnerro in 1998, situated in the low part of
Aosta Valley. I'm been many time to this sector so one year ago I decided to
get my first try on it at the end of cool day with friends. The route suites me
perfectly from the first try and I was able to do all singol moves except one.
The route is basically all chipped so the first part is characterized by long
moves on quite good crimps or pockets instead the second part consists in a
really technical slab with weird body position.
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| Invidia 8b+ Ph. Andrea Zanone |
About one year later
my first attempt, or about 1 month ago, I decided to check the old project
again in order to understand if it was possible. I got just one tries after
having done a really cool 7c+ called Guidecca and I felt it climbable. I was
super sycked to come back soon to get some attempt from the bottom.
One morning after
the University lessons My brother and I drove to Donnas with one goal: TRY TO
SEND IT! After the usual warm up I was ready for the first try, I passed the
first crux quite well, the hardest for me and I climbed really fast to reach
the second one.
I felt really good and not so pumped so I was able to do the
slab and to clip the last quickdraw. I shaked a bit the forearm then I started
to climb the last wall that is not so hard taken as singol moves. All went very
well and I clipped the chain screaming glad! :)
My first 8b+ is
done in 6 attempts. Could be a next level for me? I HOPE ;)
Another chapter is
over, Font on the next blog! IEAHHH
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| Invidia 8b+ Ph. Andrea Zanone |
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