The Frankenjura
might be one of the world's most famous sport climbing areas where back in the
days guys like Wolfgang Güllich, Kurt Albert, Jerry Moffat and many others
started to write a piece of climbing history, developing the idea of rotpunkt (red-point)
and raising the standard level achieve at that time.
Actually is not
just this history that pulls up into the area but the incredible collection of
hundreds of small rocks spread over the woods. This region is situated in the
triangle between the three cities of Bamberg, Bayreuth and Nürnberg and counts
something like 1000 crags with a huge number of routes.
This place was in
my mind for a long time because I had always heard rumors saying that it was
amazing and the climbing was mostly powerful and intense because the routes are
pretty short ranging from 10m to 20meters.
I’d not never
expected to be able to planned a trip to this magic place till next September,
actually just because it was the time to go to college and the next holiday would
have been more forward, but one day Gabri Moroni asked to my brother and me, if
we wanted to enjoy a little trip to Franken with Emanuele and he.
Skip the school was
not a problem so I took advantages of this suggestion and I said “yes we are”.
Gabri probably was the first people I would have chosen for the first trip to
Franken because he has been there several times so he can be defined as a local
climber. During the trip he recommended us some of most classic routes you have
to climb, from 8a to 8b range.
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| Video frame of Boiling Point 8b, Frankenjura. |
The first 2 days of
climbing the climbing condition were not the best because there were high
temperature with a very high percentage of humidity but there 3 days later the
condition were way worse because a heavy rain hits us. The main goals of these
first days of climbing was “Nightmare 8B” and “Ekel 7C+” both at Eldorado
sector and “Casablanca 8A+” at Holzgauer sector.
I was so close on
another proj called “Subway 8B” that runs along a wall-shaped wave with
something like 10 hard moves on weird holds. For the crux was at the end of the
wave, where the inclination of the wall change, because from a small crimp with
the right hand you had to do a dynamic into a 3 fingers jug. There was a
“static” way for this move too that consists to match the small crimp and go to
the jug more easily but I preferred the dynamic way instead just because It
suited me better.
After the 3 days of
raining the temperature get colder and the friction came. Each of us had a
project on his mind for example me and Ema wanted to get better on Subway,
Gabri wanted to try to send “Hattori Hanzo 8C+” tried few days before and
Andrea wanted to try “Queeel Dich, Du Sau 8B/+”.
I woke up really sycked because
the day seemed to be so promising, we went directly to Bärenschlucht sector
were we got a quick wamp up. Ema and my-self moved to Subway for the second
sesh on the route so I did a try to complete the warm up and to get used to the
moves way better.
I needed 4 more
attempts to be able to get to the top because the 3 tries before I fall down at
the very last hard move due to little mistakes. The day finished as well for
Gabri and Andre that were able to take down their respective project. Ema get
progress on Subway, being almost able to figure out the first double dyno move that is the hardest one for
him.
The following last
2 days we checked Maximilian sector and Rotenstein sector where Gabri show us
many other must-do routes . At the first one I was able to send in few tries a
super classic “Boiling point 8b” and “Bad brain 8a+” instead at the other one I
sent 2 amazing lines following the 2 edges of a rectangular shaped-wall. The 2
lines are called “ Die Kante 8a+” and “Engel & Bestien 8a” both top 10
routes I’ve ever done.
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| Die Kante 8a+ pic. Andrea Zanone |
This was a very successful
and positive trip not just because I sent quite hard but actually because I
travelled and climbed through a piece of climbing history, trying and seeing
routes that had been climbed about 20 years ago.
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