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| View from Siurana |
After one month spent on bouldering in Ticino I was ready for some
sport climbing in Spain as every year with my family. Down there the crew was so big, so I was able to see again friends I had not seen for a long time and I was able to climb back into this wonderful place too that I dreamed of a year round.
We had a really
long 11 hours trip by car from Biella to
Cornudella de Montasant that is a little village witch adapted itself for
climbing because everything revolves around for climbing, without whom there
would be nothing, if not for its wine producing.
The first day checked
a new sector called “Siuranella Sud” because there was a really windy day so we
saw form the guidebook that this crag
was sheltered from the wind. When we arrived at the sector I realized that this
was the best choice because there was few climbers and an amazing limestone
wall with blue and red/orange streak was in front of my eyes.
After a quite warm
up I chose an 8a+ on a blue streaks that drove me crazy, I did the first go
configuring out all single moves with the help of my brother Andrea and Patrick.
On my second go I fall as stupid missing a good crimp on the crux but then I
climbed it to the top. I was happy anyway about this try because I said that it
was possible, but 10 minutes later my friend Patrick broke the only good crimp
of the the crux making it impossible or very hard, so the first project was blown
away.
When I saw the crimp skip away I was incredulous because usually the rock quality on blue streaks is really high and really solid, so I could not imagine that such a thing to happen.
When I saw the crimp skip away I was incredulous because usually the rock quality on blue streaks is really high and really solid, so I could not imagine that such a thing to happen.
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| Morena del Montsant |
There was such a
great bunch of climbers that I warmed up on a 7a+ with the quickdraws put
on because I was too lazy to wait for
easier stuff. Then I finished my warm up trying the singles moves of “El Sistema
7c+” that I was able to get on my second attempt.
After that I did
not know whether to try my brother’ project or something of easier so after
having look out the guidebook I found this cool line situated on my favorite
piece of wall of the cliff. The 4 routes here( from 7c+ to 8b) are features
from a first bouldery wall that allow to get a good rest and from a second wall
that is more technical and where your endurance is really important.
My friends Luca
from Tuscany had already get an attempt on it so he explain to me his beta, so
with some different feet works I got all singles moves without much
effort. I decided to do a good rest in
order to be able to give the 100% on my second try, trying to send my first 8a+
in 2 goes. I did the first boulder really well without getting pumped, I rested
a bit and then the fight started until the mantle when the wall became more
vertical, where you can say “ I DID IT” even before to clip the chain.
The great journey
finished as well at the bar with friends, where we shared the ascents of the
day with a fresh Estrella. J
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| Braguetasso - Margalef Pic © Pierre Zanone |
The last day of the
year I went with Gabri and Petardo to Can Pigui Pugui in Siurana which is my
favorite area here in Siurana, because there is an incredible limestone quality
which makes the climbing really technical and crimpy. Instead my brother and my
parents went to Espadelles again because Andre was soo close on his project.
My planned here was
to try “Mr Cheki 8b+” but after having seen the line I decided to fly down so I
tried the variant called “Bou I prou 8b” that starts leftmost then rejoin at
the final crux.
After have sent
“Anabolica 8a” in 2 tries, I put my quickdraws on the project and I configured
out my beta. On my second go I was so close to take this thing down, even a
moment I thought “yes, I can do it” because I got the hardest part reaching the
jug, where you can shake you forearm a bit and take breathing. Just few moves
left me after the 6b slab but one of these moves is so weird and harder if you
are tall because from the jug you take a small pocket with the left hand and
with a really left foot high you have to get into a small crimp.
Unfortunately I fall off at the
very last move, taking the crimp with the right one, because I too was tired or
because I was sure to do it, I dunno what to think!
Gabri was closer
than ever on his nemesis “A muerte”, falling to take the jug because he took the
left crimp so bad instead Petardo was able to get a really hard 7b+ on the right that looked so cool, seeing Pet climb on it.
After that last
climb of the year we went to the Tony’s cafè for some estrellas waiting the
others friends from Margalef in order to get warm for the year-end party! J
I leave you to
imagine how the night is over…
The rest-day the
first day of the year is a must for me because I have to bounce back from the
hangover and take rest after 3 days of climbing in a row.
The first climbing
day after the party we came back to Can Pigui Pugui because I was sycked to
take the project down! Fortunately everything went very well so I crushed it on
my 2nd attempt of the day.
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| Bou I prou - Siurana Pic © Pierre Zanone |
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| Bou I prou - Siurana Pic © Pierre Zanone |
The next days I
climbed “a muerte” every day without saving energies so I got these cool lines:
- 3/01 Innuendo 8A flash – Racò de l’espadelles. Thanks to Guido and Gabri for the beta, who made this possible!
- 3/01 Ser purista a me despist 8A - Cingle de les solanes.
- 4/01 Gotim Bru 7B O.S - Balco de l'Ermita.
- 4/01 Mirtoglicerina 7C+ O.S. - Balco de l'Ermita.
- 5/01 Chute emocional 7B+ O.S - Cingle de les solanes.
- 5/01 Malasombra 7C+ flash – Racò de l’espadelles.
- 5/01 Absolut 8A+ 2nd go – El Laboratori.
- 5/01 La Bombi 8A+ flash – El Laboratori.
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| Mirtoglicerina - Margalef Pic © Pierre Zanone |
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| Family of climbers |
Now I’m working hard on some winter projects that makes me sycked to go ahead.
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