The global warming adventure started when I was in Spain and one evening
I spoke with my brother, Luca Bazooka
and Gabri about this boulder and each of us was so motivated to try it so we planned
a mission to checked the line all togethere.
Global Warming is an outstanding line ,that runs through a roof for 12
movements with amazing feet works and
toe hooks, opened by Niccolò Ceria about one year ago.
We gave the appointment Sunday, January 12 at
the cafè in Quincinetto for a coffee so getting ready for the hiking till the
first boulders, where my brother and I, warmed up.
Gabri , Bazoo and others friends went to the back side of the area where
there are some cool lines to climbed joined us after lunch. In the meantime I
climbed an amazing line feature by a small 2 fingers pocket opened by Alberto
Gnerro but still unnamed.
After ascended the 7b+ I felt warm and ready to check the roof, so we
walked for 10 minutes more, finally reaching this fabulous plateau featured by
some other interesting blocks including Global Warming.
Unamed 7b+ Pic Andrea Zanone |
I had lunch, resting a bit from the tiring walk, so in the meantime the
rest of the crew arrived, we were ready to test it!
Actually this was not my first sesh on the boulder because Andrea and I
decided to dust off the block the day before, so we took the opportunity to try
some singles moves out of curiosity.
I was really happy about my second session because I was able to
configured out all single moves except the hardest one, the swing. I wasn't strong
enough to control the swing, dabbing every time the crashpad. Gabri and Andrea
were able to do this tension move giving to me the motivation to came back
stronger! J
The bad weather came so we had to stop trying this rig for about 2 weeks
but I took advantage of this period to train specifically doing weights,
abdominal and fingers board. I started to feel better, the weather conditions
came back good and we were waiting amazing sunny days to be spent on the proj.
I kept in touch with Bazo and Gabri again planning another session all togethere,
in order to try to take this rebus down. Gabri was able to send it in a couple
of tries, after having warm up doing the finals movement of the lines. Andrea
did it too surprising everyone, because he started climbing without saying
anything to anyone, when I turned my head he was about to jump and in a
second he was able to stick the swing and complete his first 8b boulder
problem.
It was a really good day for Bazo and me as well because we were able to
keep the swing and make some good tries from the bottom.
I was closer and closer but at one point I was too tired to have any
chance so I decided to postpone to another session before the bad weather hits
us again.
This day was yesterday, Tuesday, January 29, that I went to Donnas with
my brother Andrea and Valentina with just one mission “try to send the project”.
The climbing condition was super, it was really windy and quite cold, so I
would have no excuse if I was not able to climb it. At about 1 o’clock we were
under the roof so I begins to gain confidence in the most climbable part so
much that I could hold the swing again, making me so hopeful.
After few tries from the ground I was able to get the hardest move and
in a second I found myself after the mantle. It took a few seconds before I
realized that I did it and then I looked
at my hands and I saw that I had a gash on his finger.
Global Warming - Pic Andrea Zanone |
I will not believe, the blood was pouring, but everybody know that “NO PAIN,
NO GAIN”, so I was really satisfied.
This was one of the greatest experience of my climbing life because try a line with some other strong climbers is sooo much motivating, configure the beta all togethere is amazing, you can feel much stronger than you're and these little things, all together, make the difference! :)
This was one of the greatest experience of my climbing life because try a line with some other strong climbers is sooo much motivating, configure the beta all togethere is amazing, you can feel much stronger than you're and these little things, all together, make the difference! :)
Global Warming 8B from Marco Zanone on Vimeo.
Unamed 7b+ in Donnas (AO) from Marco Zanone on Vimeo.
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