From Spain with love

View from Siurana

After one month spent on bouldering in Ticino I was ready  for some 
sport climbing in Spain as every year with my family. Down there the crew was so big, so I was able to see again friends I had not seen for a long time and I was able to climb back into this wonderful place too that I dreamed of a year round.

We had a really long  11 hours trip by car from Biella to Cornudella de Montasant that is a little village witch adapted itself for climbing because everything revolves around for climbing, without whom there would be nothing, if not for its wine producing.

The first day checked a new sector called “Siuranella Sud” because there was a really windy day so we saw form the guidebook that  this crag was sheltered from the wind. When we arrived at the sector I realized that this was the best choice because there was few climbers and an amazing limestone wall with blue and red/orange streak was in front of my eyes.

After a quite warm up I chose an 8a+ on a blue streaks that drove me crazy, I did the first go configuring out all single moves with the help of my brother Andrea and Patrick. On my second go I fall as stupid missing a good crimp on the crux but then I climbed it to the top. I was happy anyway about this try because I said that it was possible, but 10 minutes later my friend Patrick broke the only good crimp of the the crux making it impossible or very hard, so the first project was blown away.
When I saw the crimp skip away  I was incredulous because usually the rock quality on blue streaks is really high and really solid, so I could not imagine that such a thing to happen.

Morena del Montsant

The second day we decided to change place after the big fail of the first dayso we went to Margalef's classic cliff called “Racò de l’Espadelles” that it is in the sun all day making it perfect for climbing.

There was such a great bunch of climbers that I warmed up on a 7a+ with the quickdraws put on  because I was too lazy to wait for easier stuff. Then I finished my warm up trying the singles moves of “El Sistema 7c+” that I was able to get on my second attempt.

After that I did not know whether to try my brother’ project or something of easier so after having look out the guidebook I found this cool line situated on my favorite piece of wall of the cliff. The 4 routes here( from 7c+ to 8b) are features from a first bouldery wall that allow to get a good rest and from a second wall that is more technical and where your endurance is really important.

My friends Luca from Tuscany had already get an attempt on it so he explain to me his beta, so with some different feet works I got all singles moves without much effort.  I decided to do a good rest in order to be able to give the 100% on my second try, trying to send my first 8a+ in 2 goes. I did the first boulder really well without getting pumped, I rested a bit and then the fight started until the mantle when the wall became more vertical, where you can say “ I DID IT” even before to clip the chain.

Braguetasso - Margalef Pic © Pierre Zanone

The great journey finished as well at the bar with friends, where we shared the ascents of the day with a fresh Estrella. J

The last day of the year I went with Gabri and Petardo to Can Pigui Pugui in Siurana which is my favorite area here in Siurana, because there is an incredible limestone quality which makes the climbing really technical and crimpy. Instead my brother and my parents went to Espadelles again because Andre was soo close on his project.

My planned here was to try “Mr Cheki 8b+” but after having seen the line I decided to fly down so I tried the variant called “Bou I prou 8b” that starts leftmost then rejoin at the final crux.

After have sent “Anabolica 8a” in 2 tries, I put my quickdraws on the project and I configured out my beta. On my second go I was so close to take this thing down, even a moment I thought “yes, I can do it” because I got the hardest part reaching the jug, where you can shake you forearm a bit and take breathing. Just few moves left me after the 6b slab but one of these moves is so weird and harder if you are tall because from the jug you take a small pocket with the left hand and with a really left foot high you have to get into a small crimp.

Unfortunately I fall off at the very last move, taking the crimp with the right one, because I too was tired or because I was sure to do it, I dunno what to think! 

Gabri was closer than ever on his nemesis “A muerte”, falling to take the jug because he took the left crimp so bad instead Petardo was able to get a really hard 7b+ on the right that looked so cool, seeing Pet climb on it.

After that last climb of the year we went to the Tony’s cafè for some estrellas waiting the others friends from Margalef in order to get warm for the year-end party! J

I leave you to imagine how the night is over…

The rest-day the first day of the year is a must for me because I have to bounce back from the hangover and take rest after 3 days of climbing in a row.

The first climbing day after the party we came back to Can Pigui Pugui because I was sycked to take the project down! Fortunately everything went very well so I crushed it on my 2^nd attempt of the day.

Bou I prou - Siurana Pic © Pierre Zanone

Bou I prou - Siurana Pic © Pierre Zanone

The next days I climbed “a muerte” every day without saving energies so I got these cool lines:

•  3/01 Innuendo 8A flash – Racò de l’espadelles. Thanks to Guido and Gabri for the beta, who made this possible!
•  3/01 Ser purista a me despist 8A - Cingle de les solanes.
• 4/01 Gotim Bru 7B O.S - Balco de l'Ermita.
•  4/01 Mirtoglicerina 7C+ O.S. - Balco de l'Ermita.
•  5/01 Chute emocional 7B+ O.S - Cingle de les solanes.
• 5/01 Malasombra 7C+ flash – Racò de l’espadelles.
•  5/01 Absolut 8A+ 2^nd go – El Laboratori.
• 5/01 La Bombi 8A+ flash – El Laboratori.

Mirtoglicerina - Margalef  Pic © Pierre Zanone 

      I was very happy and satisfied about this holiday because ,except for the realizations, I spent a lot of time with my family and great friends that is the most important thing.

Family of climbers

Now I’m working hard on some winter projects that makes me sycked to go ahead.

SALUDOS AMIGOS. 

Fontainebleau Experience

Fontainbleau trip started this summer when Valerio, my brother Andrea, Francesco and I, thought to a possible trip to the magical forest in November. The time passed too quickly from that day of summer and in a while I experienced  many other adventures.

About mid-October I kept in touch with Valerio if the proposal of this summer was still stood so he said me “Yes, sure”.  After this fabulous response I started sending emails to find a mobile-home to live, and after many trouble we rented one at the campsite “ Le Parc du Guè” situated in the Montigny-sur-Liong Village far 15km from Fontainbleau.

All was ready, so the early morning of November the 9^th, Andrea, Francesco and I drove for 7-8 hours straight to Font, instead Valerio joins us from Rome by plane. With the satnav was so easy find the campsite so we settled ourself  in the mobile-home which was so comfortable.

Day 1 in the forest:

The first day of bouldering was amazing because we decided to check the most popular and accessible area situated alongside the N7, Bas Cuvier! When we parked the car and I saw this land full of boulders, I was stunned. The problems were all a bit wet so we moves to Cuvier Rempart where I got one of THE BIG FOUR and still one of my hardest goal of the trip, Big Boss 7c. For the first try seemed to have no chance to do the gaston moves but then I was able to configure out a new beta with a right toe-hook on the most right of the line, very useful not to  dab too the big stone behind. So in a couple of tries I sent it making me sooo happy. J

Big Boss Ph. Andrea Zanone

Other must-do sent of the day:

-         Duroxmanie 6c flash Cuvier Rempart

-         Angle Allain 5+ flash Cuvier Rempart

-         Cortomaltese 6c+ Bas Cuvier

-         Helicoptere 7a Bas Cuvier

Day 2:

The second day we went to Isatis another classic sector. It was a quite cold morning so it was not easy to warm up.

After the warm up I climbed a lot of 7a/+ that are among the most beautiful blocks I’ve ever climbed as:

-         Little Karma assis 7a+

-         El poussah 7a Flash

-         El Poussif 7a+

-         Boule de Nerfs 7a

-         Divine decadence 7b/+

Day 3:

3 days were already passed so we decided to come back to Bas Cuvier to check other classic. We warmed up like children because we did a line and not even time to get off, we got on another line without pad and so on.. for about 30 minutes. J

Then we tried Aerodynamite 7c, a reference point for jump start but easier if you are taller. My brother did it on his second try so he explained to me the beta. Thanks his teach I was able to get the dyno and to send it on my first attempt. YEAHH!!

Aerodynamite Ph Fra Longhini

The day finished as well because I was able to flash the world’s first 6a, Marie Rose, to flash the stand part of Carnage and in few attempt to send Carnage assis 7b+! J

Carnage Ph Fra Longhini

Day 4:

The 4 day of climbing we went to Franchard Cuisiniére because looked to so beautiful from the guidebook. It was a relax day for, just climbing what inspired me more.

The best boulder of the day was Excalibur 7a+ that contains a legend. This legend talk about a chosen that is the only one able to get it like King Arthur pulls the sword from the stone. Today I was the chosen ;)

Even today, the darkness came early so we left the sector headed home for a delicious dinner.

Day 5:

We got up about eight o'clock, as every morning but we heard from the bed the sound of rain, which breaks on the roof so we decided to get a rest day and we came back to sleep again J

At around 12 o’clock we went to the Mc Donald not for a healthy lunch but to take advantage of the wi-fi which was free. The rest of the afternoon we were in search of new sector for us as Elephant, Petit Bois which would be the next destination. J

Day 6:

As said before we went at the Elephant sector in the morning where I was able to crush La Barre fixe 7b/+ in few tries and many other classic. 

La barre fixed direct Ph Andrea Zanone

Then we left this one to check the Cul de Chien sector which is situated in an expanse of white sand which makes it wonderful. 

Cul de Chien beach

We went straight below Le Toit du Cul de Chien, I've always wanted to flash it but unfortunately the hill hook beta didn't suit me so I fall down. The second attempt I pushed with my left foot on the steep and I did it! What a pity.

Then we moved quickly to Eclipse boulder, to the last session of the day, where there are many cool lines to climbed. Firsty we tried the stand start of Eclipse because this was the line that inspired me more. From the first attempts seemed impossible for me, but later after having configured out all moves I was able to grab the final crimp. Hell Yeah!!

Another cool line that I climbed was Arabesque, 7b+ just on the right of eclipse. This problem consists on few moves on big holds in overhang which joins with an hard gaston move to take a two fingers pocket.

Eclipse Ph Andrea Zanone

Last Day:

Seemed impossible but the last day came very quickly. Without skin but with much motivation we went to Roche aux Sabots, a really cool sector before Cul de Chien! It was the coldest morning of the trip because there was so much cold wind  which made ​​it difficult to keep warm. After a couple of 7a I tried Salle Gosse for about one hour, without success, always dropping down to the final dyno.

Just one cliff we missed to climb so we moved to Petit Bois that was one the sector that inspired me more because it was not so big but full of must-do. Here I could get three of the better boulder in Font:

-          La Baleine 7a/+ flash.

-          Big Jim 6c

-          L’oeuf 7b

I always saw Big Jim from the screen but I never thought that it was in Petit bois so when we checked this sector and I saw it and BIG DRAGON in front of my face I stood breathless! Majestic wall, a bit scary the last move to the jug.

L’Oeuf was the boulder that inspired me more for sure. Squeezed 4 brains to configure out the beta then it looked possible! Actually this is what climbing means because it consists in a really technical slab with weird toe/hill hook. EPIC!

L'oeuf  Ph Fra Longhini

La Baleine is totally different from the others one, It's amazing overhang with an hard match on a crimp that allow to get a big pocket.

The trip end with very good attempts on Big Dragon 8a/+, my dream from the first time that I saw on videos. I was a little bit tired but really happy anyway because so I have an excuse to go back soon. ;)

The highest point of the season

After the outstanding trip to Kalymnos I would like to tell about my two best goal of the season.

The first one was the last competition of the year but also the most important because it was the the Italian Boulder Championship at the Nissan Skypass event in Modena. 

Just came back to Kalymnos I had 20 days to prepare this comp, so I started to do some fingerboard and some boulder sessions on plastic in order to prepare my mind for the event.

The qualification round was hard for me except one problem that was climbable, so I was able to flash it. Thanks to this flash I was into the final with others 12 guys because the biggest part of them had flash one problem too. Given this large number of Finalists, the judge thought to do the final round as the qualification one, or rather 4 boulders with 4 minutes for each problems.

The problem of the final round were so beautiful and well-setted but I was able to flash the first one and I was so close on the bonus hold of the third one.

I finished 4^th just under the podium but besides the results I was soo happy and so sycked for next comp season.

My second goal and the most important for me, was my hardest realization on rock: Invidia 8b+

Invidia is an old route, bolted and open by Alberto Gnerro in 1998, situated in the low part of Aosta Valley. I'm been many time to this sector so one year ago I decided to get my first try on it at the end of cool day with friends. The route suites me perfectly from the first try and I was able to do all singol moves except one. The route is basically all chipped so the first part is characterized by long moves on quite good crimps or pockets instead the second part consists in a really technical slab with weird body position.

Invidia 8b+ Ph. Andrea Zanone

About one year later my first attempt, or about 1 month ago, I decided to check the old project again in order to understand if it was possible. I got just one tries after having done a really cool 7c+ called Guidecca and I felt it climbable. I was super sycked to come back soon to get some attempt from the bottom.

One morning after the University lessons My brother and I drove to Donnas with one goal: TRY TO SEND IT! After the usual warm up I was ready for the first try, I passed the first crux quite well, the hardest for me and I climbed really fast to reach the second one. 

I felt really good and not so pumped so I was able to do the slab and to clip the last quickdraw. I shaked a bit the forearm then I started to climb the last wall that is not so hard taken as singol moves. All went very well and I clipped the chain screaming glad! :)

My first 8b+ is done in 6 attempts. Could be a next level for me? I HOPE ;)

Another chapter is over, Font on the next blog! IEAHHH

Invidia 8b+ Ph. Andrea Zanone

Kalymnos in the HEART

Hi there

The warm summer temperatures are dropping down leaving space to autumn, but for us it is not yet time of the cold, we are to leave Italy again for a new experience in southern Greece. Actually  we were headed to the sport climbing paradise, Kalymnos  to test if this legend is true.

We woke up at 3o’clock a.m the morning of October the 1^st  because we had the airplane at 7 o’clock to left Italy for Kos, Greece. The fly went really well, without  complications but when we will to the port in Mastichari a heavy rainstorm fell on us so we had to wait from 12 o’clock to 6 o’clock at the port because the ferry didn’t leave to Kalymnos.  

We were tired and bored to wait but finally we were able to cross the sea and to reach Kalymnos. Mrs. Poppy was waiting for us down there, so she took us to the house they had rented.

The house was situated on the other side of the Island, where the all sport climbing cliffs were.

Amazing sunset from the house.

From the first second that I was in Kalymnos I saw the amazing air you breathed because all people seemed to be so relax and really available. Each evening that we decided to eat out for dinner we tried  always to change place and try to eat some specialties. In my opinion Greek food is very good and different because it varies from excellent fish, delicious vegetables to special meat skewers actually known as “Souvlaki”.

As customary we rented 2 scooter to move from home to the cliffs but also to visit the island so the rest we went to a special restaurant that  I'd like to recommend for very special lunch, snack or dinner.

This restaurant is situated in a remote village called Palionisos in the east coast of Kalymnos so to reach it you have to take the road to Secret Garden sector but instead of stopping to the car parking you have to follow the paved road until its ends and follow a dirt road. The house is on the left after 200 meters. Nicolas is the manager and the only worker of this little restaurant and it's a whole do man, but actually this is not a real restaurant but  he basically cook in his kitchen so this is more like a family meal.

Nice lunch to Nicolas.

Nicolas work for many years as a teacher in Kalymnos but he was also a sailor in search of sponges ,that still sells, so thanks to all these trip he is able to speak many languages like Italian, English, German. He is a super cooker and every kind of fish that he cooks was caught by him. Here you can eat very well and cheaply so I would like to recommend again.

Actually I was not here in Kalymnos for eating but for climbing,  so I’m going to tell us something about I was able to send in this 10 day trip.

The climbing here could be really strange and difficult for those are used to climb on crimps like me, because the climbing is most powerful and endurance on super overhanging wall. The rock of Kalymnos is top-quality limestone feature by pockets, stalactites, tufas and big open hand holds.

The main feature of all crags are these big tofas but not all cliffs are on super overhang, it dipends from Grande Grotta, to Arhi, to Secret Garden, to many others. 

Angelika 8a Ph. Pierre Zanone

My best goal here are:

-Angelica sector Arhi; I was sooo close on the onsight attempt, fall at the very last move for slippery feet! I was really happy anyway :)

-Orion 7c+ sector Odyssey; Old routes or maybe one of the first bolted here. Bouldery routes.

-Andromeda 7c+, sector Odyssey; just on the left of Orion that I was able to flash. This is feature by long single tofa on the second part. Harder than Orion.

- Neska Polita 7c+, sector Spartacus; flash it too!! J Crimpy boulder into an amazing 7a+ route.

- Kaly diva 7c, sector Secret Garden; ONSIGHT! Nice line.

Orion 7c+ Ph. Pierre Zanone

I climbed  many others amazing routes from the 6b to 7b+ but I would like to recommend one of the best and funniest route that I climbed, it’s called Frapolago on Secret Garden sector that is feature big the biggest stalactites I’ve ever seen where you can sit down to rest. It seem to be on a school desk! Ahahah

View from the Island, Telendos on the background.

Kalymnos is one of the places that impressed me more and I basically left a part of my heart over there not just for climbing, but for everything!! 

Enjoy your time J

Summer edit part 2

The Summer is basically over and I have so much things to tell you.

It all began in mid-July because I kept in touch with a friends of mine from Rome, Valerio, that I met for the first time in Ceuse two years ago and he said to me that he was in Biella for few days and then he would go to France for 10 days. I was so looking forward to see him again after many years, so I planned with my brother to reach Valerio and Francesco in Briancons.

Tuesday, July 16 we were ready to leave Italy and to go climbing in France. We wake up early and around 9 o’clock we was at the campsite of ‘Argentière where the guys were, we emptied the car and pitched the tent so we were ready for some sport climbing in the Fournel valley, in a super crag called Rocher des Brumes.

This one is an unbelievable spot, dipped in nature and I don’t know why it is poorly attended while being incredible. A big part of the crag is featured by these smooth overhangs, about 50 degrees, so the climbing can only be strength and endurance. The others walls are more vertical with small tufas, pockets and crimps but I decided to try and 8a on the super overhang wall called Papapuk and I was able to send it on my second attempt. Nothing better to start the trip!!

7b+ in Roche des Brumes  © Fra Longhini

The second day we decided to check out  again a new crag for me, Entraygues, known from a great mass of climbers for the hard routes. When we arrived up there we had some troubles how to reach the crag, because there was a river but not a bridge anymore… My brother and Francesco crossed the cold and strong river water in their underwear but was not so easy for me, I had the camera so I was afraid to wet it.

I decided to find another way so I walked up near the river in order to get a piece where the water was slower and I find it after a long research and I could finally reach the crag! :)                  

After a quick warm up I got a couple of tries on Deltaplane man because rumors said that this is a bouldery route, therefor my style. At the end of the day I was able to configure out my beta and I did all single moves so I was really sycked to come back soon.

My brother was soo close too and he proposed to me to come back the day after to finish the project, I couldn’t be much happier!

The day after came really quickly and the weather was not really good but we were too looking forward to not climb; the overhang wall was basically sheltered from the rain so the climbing was possible and after a difficult warm up, due to moisture, I did my first try of the day falling in the middle of the boulder.

On the second attempt everything went very well and I was able to climb it, I was really happy for this one and the day finished as well for Andrea that he sent it too. ;)

Deltaplane Man 8b Entraygues © Fra Longhini 

The time here in Briancons was over so we left to Ceuse for a couple of days and as every year I’m really sycked to touch again that amazing limestone.

I had a lot of projects in my mind but one in particular, L’ami de tout le Monde 8b because the year past I was really closed to send it and I would have liked to climb this majestic rig.

I did a couple of attempt to retry the 3 boulders sequences and I felt it feasible, so I try to work it out from the start. The first real try I fell at the second crux but then I was able to link the second boulder with the third one and I was anyway really happy.

I work it for two others days but without got it, I did the hard part of the route, or rather the  3 boulders but I fall for 4 times in a row at the very last move, to match the big hole. My forearm were not so pumped just after the third crux but when I suddenly took the jug my right hand wasn’t not able to stick the jug anymore so I fell as fucker.

The line is still over there to be climbed and I can define it as my nemesis so I had to postpone my next possible ascent to next year. My “only” goals of the Ceuse trip were the flash of Blanches Fesses 7c in Cascade sector and the onsight of L'errance d'une passion 7c in Berlin sector.

About one month later I were ready for another adventure but during this month spent at home I trained hard and I spent my free time to climb but to have fun with friends too.

One day I went in Val di Rhemes with my mum and I was able to get an 8a+ called Gioiello nell’ Abisso, this one it’s a bit chipped but it’s funny to climb with a good feet works.

I didn’t spend much more time on the rock because I had to prepare the Italian Boulder Cup in Gressoney, I was not really in shape for a plastic climbing because it’s totally different from the outdoor climbing, more powerful with a climb more violent.

I finished 9^th with 2 bonus holds.

This month has elapsed very quickly so Andrea and I planned another trip to Briancons for 10 days, always to check new places to climb in order to do something of new for us.

The first day we checked a sport climbing cliff in Ailefroide valley called Face bouc that is one of the most impressive granite overhang I’ve ever seen. I onsighted a 7a+ for warm up but then it was a day to forget, it seemed as I had no desire to climb.

Cambon Beurre 7a+ Face bouc © Pierre Zanone 

The second day we went to Rue des masques and I realized that I was in a bad shape because I felt all routes really difficult. I did a 7b onsight but when I reached the chain I was really tired, but surely the condition couldn’t help us because it was very humid.                                                                       I tried an 8a but felt it very very far but i was sycked to climb again so I got an onsight attempt on a 7c+ and I fell very high when the wall became more vertical with slippery pockets or crimps.

Two day was over and I got anything better that pumped forearm!!!

We spent the two days after in an unbelievable cliff called La Saume, but this was not my first time up there because I check it out one year before with my brother and David Fault who took us to see it.

This crag is the best here in Briancons, the friction for climbing are perfect but I love it more because the place is simply amazing. There is a green grass such as that the elves, a brook runs through the valley and all this is really special for me, it gives me happiness.

My goals here was:

-Gazpatcho 7a+ O.s.

- Mamelle trophy 7b+ flash

- God Michou 7b+ O.s.

- No named  8a+ that I had to spend 2 days of work to crushed it. This one consists in two boulder problem into a short and intense route that my brother was able to flash. Well done mann! :)

Good Michou 7b+ La Saume  © Zanone Andrea

About 30 minutes later the ascent I decided to reclimb it for some photos so I saw around to find a good place to take it. In seeking this place I sprained my ankle strongly as stupid and I realized that my trip was basically over. :(

The day was still long because I was expecting “a long journey back” to the car. The following days  my ankle became bigger so I had to rest for rock climbing for at least one week and later I could again take the first steps on the rock.

13 days after the accident in La Saume I was able to send a 7c called Casi Zolu on my second go in Barmasse crag, Valtournenche (AO) and few days later I got my first sport climbing F.A. in Donnas, the routes was called Ghiaccio from the bolter Ulde and I proposed a grade of 7c because it consist in few hard moves on very sharp crimps.

In the meantime of these ascents I used this time away from rock to train hard on moonboard, pan gullich and finger board in order to be a bit in shape again.

My very lasts high points were in Valgrisenche one week ago, where I was able to crushed on my second go Razor, a super crimpy crack graded 8a and Input, 3 days ago, 7c+/8a in the lower Aosta valley. I’m really happy about these ascents because I felt myself  in fit again and ready for these 10 day trip to Kalimnos from October the 1^st  to October the 10^th.

Casi Zolu 7c Barmasse © Fra Longhini 

Razor 8a Falesia dell'Obliquo © Fra Longhini