Tuesday, December 10, 2013

The highest point of the season

After the outstanding trip to Kalymnos I would like to tell about my two best goal of the season.

The first one was the last competition of the year but also the most important because it was the the Italian Boulder Championship at the Nissan Skypass event in Modena. 
Just came back to Kalymnos I had 20 days to prepare this comp, so I started to do some fingerboard and some boulder sessions on plastic in order to prepare my mind for the event.

The qualification round was hard for me except one problem that was climbable, so I was able to flash it. Thanks to this flash I was into the final with others 12 guys because the biggest part of them had flash one problem too. Given this large number of Finalists, the judge thought to do the final round as the qualification one, or rather 4 boulders with 4 minutes for each problems.
The problem of the final round were so beautiful and well-setted but I was able to flash the first one and I was so close on the bonus hold of the third one.

I finished 4th just under the podium but besides the results I was soo happy and so sycked for next comp season.

My second goal and the most important for me, was my hardest realization on rock: Invidia 8b+

Invidia is an old route, bolted and open by Alberto Gnerro in 1998, situated in the low part of Aosta Valley. I'm been many time to this sector so one year ago I decided to get my first try on it at the end of cool day with friends. The route suites me perfectly from the first try and I was able to do all singol moves except one. The route is basically all chipped so the first part is characterized by long moves on quite good crimps or pockets instead the second part consists in a really technical slab with weird body position.
Invidia 8b+ Ph. Andrea Zanone

About one year later my first attempt, or about 1 month ago, I decided to check the old project again in order to understand if it was possible. I got just one tries after having done a really cool 7c+ called Guidecca and I felt it climbable. I was super sycked to come back soon to get some attempt from the bottom.

One morning after the University lessons My brother and I drove to Donnas with one goal: TRY TO SEND IT! After the usual warm up I was ready for the first try, I passed the first crux quite well, the hardest for me and I climbed really fast to reach the second one. 

I felt really good and not so pumped so I was able to do the slab and to clip the last quickdraw. I shaked a bit the forearm then I started to climb the last wall that is not so hard taken as singol moves. All went very well and I clipped the chain screaming glad! :)

My first 8b+ is done in 6 attempts. Could be a next level for me? I HOPE ;)

Another chapter is over, Font on the next blog! IEAHHH
Invidia 8b+ Ph. Andrea Zanone

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