The warm summer temperatures are dropping down leaving space to autumn, but for us it is not yet time of the cold, we are to leave Italy again for a new experience in southern Greece. Actually we were headed to the sport climbing paradise, Kalymnos to test if this legend is true.
We woke up at 3o’clock a.m the morning of October the 1st because we had the airplane at 7 o’clock to left Italy for Kos, Greece. The fly went really well, without complications but when we will to the port in Mastichari a heavy rainstorm fell on us so we had to wait from 12 o’clock to 6 o’clock at the port because the ferry didn’t leave to Kalymnos.
We were tired and bored to wait but finally we were able to cross the sea and to reach Kalymnos. Mrs. Poppy was waiting for us down there, so she took us to the house they had rented.
The house was situated on the other side of the Island, where the all sport climbing cliffs were.
|Amazing sunset from the house.|
From the first second that I was in Kalymnos I saw the amazing air you breathed because all people seemed to be so relax and really available. Each evening that we decided to eat out for dinner we tried always to change place and try to eat some specialties. In my opinion Greek food is very good and different because it varies from excellent fish, delicious vegetables to special meat skewers actually known as “Souvlaki”.
As customary we rented 2 scooter to move from home to the cliffs but also to visit the island so the rest we went to a special restaurant that I'd like to recommend for very special lunch, snack or dinner.
This restaurant is situated in a remote village called Palionisos in the east coast of Kalymnos so to reach it you have to take the road to Secret Garden sector but instead of stopping to the car parking you have to follow the paved road until its ends and follow a dirt road. The house is on the left after 200 meters. Nicolas is the manager and the only worker of this little restaurant and it's a whole do man, but actually this is not a real restaurant but he basically cook in his kitchen so this is more like a family meal.
|Nice lunch to Nicolas.|
Nicolas work for many years as a teacher in Kalymnos but he was also a sailor in search of sponges ,that still sells, so thanks to all these trip he is able to speak many languages like Italian, English, German. He is a super cooker and every kind of fish that he cooks was caught by him. Here you can eat very well and cheaply so I would like to recommend again.
Actually I was not here in Kalymnos for eating but for climbing, so I’m going to tell us something about I was able to send in this 10 day trip.
The climbing here could be really strange and difficult for those are used to climb on crimps like me, because the climbing is most powerful and endurance on super overhanging wall. The rock of Kalymnos is top-quality limestone feature by pockets, stalactites, tufas and big open hand holds.
The main feature of all crags are these big tofas but not all cliffs are on super overhang, it dipends from Grande Grotta, to Arhi, to Secret Garden, to many others.
|Angelika 8a Ph. Pierre Zanone|
My best goal here are:
-Angelica sector Arhi; I was sooo close on the onsight attempt, fall at the very last move for slippery feet! I was really happy anyway :)
-Orion 7c+ sector Odyssey; Old routes or maybe one of the first bolted here. Bouldery routes.
-Andromeda 7c+, sector Odyssey; just on the left of Orion that I was able to flash. This is feature by long single tofa on the second part. Harder than Orion.
- Neska Polita 7c+, sector Spartacus; flash it too!! J Crimpy boulder into an amazing 7a+ route.
- Kaly diva 7c, sector Secret Garden; ONSIGHT! Nice line.
|Orion 7c+ Ph. Pierre Zanone|
I climbed many others amazing routes from the 6b to 7b+ but I would like to recommend one of the best and funniest route that I climbed, it’s called Frapolago on Secret Garden sector that is feature big the biggest stalactites I’ve ever seen where you can sit down to rest. It seem to be on a school desk! Ahahah
|View from the Island, Telendos on the background.|
Kalymnos is one of the places that impressed me more and I basically left a part of my heart over there not just for climbing, but for everything!!
Enjoy your time J