Tuesday, December 24, 2013

Fontainebleau Experience

Fontainbleau trip started this summer when Valerio, my brother Andrea, Francesco and I, thought to a possible trip to the magical forest in November. The time passed too quickly from that day of summer and in a while I experienced  many other adventures.

About mid-October I kept in touch with Valerio if the proposal of this summer was still stood so he said me “Yes, sure”.  After this fabulous response I started sending emails to find a mobile-home to live, and after many trouble we rented one at the campsite “ Le Parc du Guè” situated in the Montigny-sur-Liong Village far 15km from Fontainbleau.
All was ready, so the early morning of November the 9th, Andrea, Francesco and I drove for 7-8 hours straight to Font, instead Valerio joins us from Rome by plane. With the satnav was so easy find the campsite so we settled ourself  in the mobile-home which was so comfortable.

Day 1 in the forest:

The first day of bouldering was amazing because we decided to check the most popular and accessible area situated alongside the N7, Bas Cuvier! When we parked the car and I saw this land full of boulders, I was stunned. The problems were all a bit wet so we moves to Cuvier Rempart where I got one of THE BIG FOUR and still one of my hardest goal of the trip, Big Boss 7c. For the first try seemed to have no chance to do the gaston moves but then I was able to configure out a new beta with a right toe-hook on the most right of the line, very useful not to  dab too the big stone behind. So in a couple of tries I sent it making me sooo happy. J

Big Boss Ph. Andrea Zanone

Other must-do sent of the day:

-         Duroxmanie 6c flash Cuvier Rempart
-         Angle Allain 5+ flash Cuvier Rempart
-         Cortomaltese 6c+ Bas Cuvier
-         Helicoptere 7a Bas Cuvier

Day 2:

The second day we went to Isatis another classic sector. It was a quite cold morning so it was not easy to warm up.
After the warm up I climbed a lot of 7a/+ that are among the most beautiful blocks I’ve ever climbed as:

-         Little Karma assis 7a+
-         El poussah 7a Flash
-         El Poussif 7a+
-         Boule de Nerfs 7a
-         Divine decadence 7b/+

Day 3:

3 days were already passed so we decided to come back to Bas Cuvier to check other classic. We warmed up like children because we did a line and not even time to get off, we got on another line without pad and so on.. for about 30 minutes. J
Then we tried Aerodynamite 7c, a reference point for jump start but easier if you are taller. My brother did it on his second try so he explained to me the beta. Thanks his teach I was able to get the dyno and to send it on my first attempt. YEAHH!!
Aerodynamite Ph Fra Longhini

The day finished as well because I was able to flash the world’s first 6a, Marie Rose, to flash the stand part of Carnage and in few attempt to send Carnage assis 7b+! J
Carnage Ph Fra Longhini

Day 4:

The 4 day of climbing we went to Franchard Cuisiniére because looked to so beautiful from the guidebook. It was a relax day for, just climbing what inspired me more.
The best boulder of the day was Excalibur 7a+ that contains a legend. This legend talk about a chosen that is the only one able to get it like King Arthur pulls the sword from the stone. Today I was the chosen ;)
Even today, the darkness came early so we left the sector headed home for a delicious dinner.

Day 5:

We got up about eight o'clock, as every morning but we heard from the bed the sound of rain, which breaks on the roof so we decided to get a rest day and we came back to sleep again J
At around 12 o’clock we went to the Mc Donald not for a healthy lunch but to take advantage of the wi-fi which was free. The rest of the afternoon we were in search of new sector for us as Elephant, Petit Bois which would be the next destination. J

Day 6:

As said before we went at the Elephant sector in the morning where I was able to crush La Barre fixe 7b/+ in few tries and many other classic. 
La barre fixed direct Ph Andrea Zanone

Then we left this one to check the Cul de Chien sector which is situated in an expanse of white sand which makes it wonderful. 
Cul de Chien beach

We went straight below Le Toit du Cul de Chien, I've always wanted to flash it but unfortunately the hill hook beta didn't suit me so I fall down. The second attempt I pushed with my left foot on the steep and I did it! What a pity.

Then we moved quickly to Eclipse boulder, to the last session of the day, where there are many cool lines to climbed. Firsty we tried the stand start of Eclipse because this was the line that inspired me more. From the first attempts seemed impossible for me, but later after having configured out all moves I was able to grab the final crimp. Hell Yeah!!

Another cool line that I climbed was Arabesque, 7b+ just on the right of eclipse. This problem consists on few moves on big holds in overhang which joins with an hard gaston move to take a two fingers pocket.
Eclipse Ph Andrea Zanone

Last Day:

Seemed impossible but the last day came very quickly. Without skin but with much motivation we went to Roche aux Sabots, a really cool sector before Cul de Chien! It was the coldest morning of the trip because there was so much cold wind  which made ​​it difficult to keep warm. After a couple of 7a I tried Salle Gosse for about one hour, without success, always dropping down to the final dyno.

Just one cliff we missed to climb so we moved to Petit Bois that was one the sector that inspired me more because it was not so big but full of must-do. Here I could get three of the better boulder in Font:

-          La Baleine 7a/+ flash.
-          Big Jim 6c
-          L’oeuf 7b

I always saw Big Jim from the screen but I never thought that it was in Petit bois so when we checked this sector and I saw it and BIG DRAGON in front of my face I stood breathless! Majestic wall, a bit scary the last move to the jug.

L’Oeuf was the boulder that inspired me more for sure. Squeezed 4 brains to configure out the beta then it looked possible! Actually this is what climbing means because it consists in a really technical slab with weird toe/hill hook. EPIC!
L'oeuf  Ph Fra Longhini

La Baleine is totally different from the others one, It's amazing overhang with an hard match on a crimp that allow to get a big pocket.

The trip end with very good attempts on Big Dragon 8a/+, my dream from the first time that I saw on videos. I was a little bit tired but really happy anyway because so I have an excuse to go back soon. ;)

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